Trigger job on Ruger 22/45?

How about this?

http://www.hornetproducts.com/ViewProduct.asp?ModelNumber=VC2AK

I took mine (a MK II) to a local gunsmith and he lightened the trigger pull to about 1.5 or 2 pounds and installed a set-screw in the trigger to adjust... something. Cost me $35 and was well worth it. I don't think he replaced any parts.

Many find the Volquartsen sear, by itself, will greatly improve the trigger pull on Rugers.
Some also find removing the magazine safety on MKIIIs helps.
Another aid to accuracy is an over travel stop. Rugers that come with a factory adjustable rear sight also have a over travel adjustable trigger. The procedure to adjust it is cumbersome and you might be better of with a trigger that allows the adjustment be made without disassembly of the pistol (such as Volquartsen or Clark make). You can modify the stock trigger to allow adjustment without disassembly by drilling and tapping it for a set screw.
As noted by zxcvbob, the Rugers benefit from smithing as well
Regards,
Greg

I installed a VQ trigger & sear. My MKIII trigger pull is now 1# 13 OZ.

Have had good luck with Volquartsen hammer and sears on the steel guns. I prefer the Clark steel triggers to his, though.

What would a person need to do to simply get it to that 4-5#, good 1911 territory? I figure that since the point of that pistol is to simulate the 1911, I should want the trigger to behave accordingly.

Think I'll print it off and take to my "smith" to see what he recommends.

Click to expand...

This being the case....Why bother posting the question ?

What would a person need to do to simply get it to that 4-5#, good 1911 territory? I figure that since the point of that pistol is to simulate the 1911, I should want the trigger to behave accordingly.

Click to expand...

Not too much, but the VQ trigger and/or sear are very popular and give a nice light, crisp pull that many like for the accuracy and shooting characteristics of a .22. If you really want to simulate a 1911, I'd go for a Marvel or Ciener kit on a 1911 frame.

Ole, I recently put a VQ trigger and sear in my MKIII. I am not a gunsmith but do have some basic tools. I did a search on this site and rimfirecentral.com and found excellent step by step instructions with pictures. I didn't have any problems and it turned out perfect.

A good friend of mine did the same thing with a 22/45. He removed the mag safety, modified it so he could "slingshot" the bolt, put two set screws in the trigger, and modified the frame so he could put 1911 grips on the gun. He had never modified a gun before and it was his 1st attempt at anything like that. He just took his time, carefully followed the instructions, and didn't get in a hurry. It turned out great. He got his information from rimfirecentral.com. He modified existing parts and did not have to buy a new trigger or sear. If I remember correctly all he needed was a tap and die set, two set screws, a couple of small washer, grip screws, 1911 bushings, and the grips. He bought the gun new and all of the parts for under $300.

The 1911 grips on a 22/45 were a nice touch.

I have the Volquartsen drop-in trigger kit (extended bolt release, target hammer, target sear, target trigger w/ overtravel screw, return trigger plunger spring and polished plunger) in one of my MKII Target models. The trigger is quite crisp and has a pull of approximately 2.25 - 2.50 pounds. Cost is about $100.

OleCodger,

They are not hard to do with proper instructions and a few decent tools. A vice or something to hold the gun as you work is helpful. However, if you are a little reluctant, a gunsmith can do it quickly and won't charge much either.

I have never worked on the Mk-III but on the Mk-II and the 22-45 all you have to do to get a good creep free trigger is remove some metal off the hammer notch.

No big deal. It takes a diamond stone about an hour to do it.