Scandium - actual test or other analysis data?

Fat Boy · Feb 4, 2009

I am considering a S&W scandium frame/titanium cylinder revolver. This gun will probably cost between $800 and $1,000- :what:

I have been reading many things about the scandium/titanium combination, but if my assessment is correct the main (maybe only) issue is that the frames cracked from too much torque at construction. Although I have read early reports of the titanium cylinder showing wear from gas/flame issues. I know that the gun has a stainless piece screwed into the top frame to stop gas cutting in that area now.

I like the looks and feel of the guns, I like the weight, and I am not concerned about recoil, which I know will be significant; I have shot lightweight guns before and am ok with them- however, if I am going to spend this much, I want to be sure I am buying a revolver I can reasonably expect to pass down to my descendants, and a revolver that I can shoot to my hearts content without worrying about it "shooting loose", or other wear-related issues.

I called S&W a while back and discussed this issue with the representative who answered the phone; he assured me that the gun would perform as designed, and would last several generations :evil:

.

Has anyone seen or done any actual testing of this combination of materials? If so, I would like very much to see the results.

Thanks!

Korbin · Feb 4, 2009

Well my dad bought a new one. Took it to the range and the cylinder failed to turn half the time he pulled the trigger. He had to jiggle the cylinder into place every time in order for it to shoot. He took it back to the gun shop and sent it back to S&W. The gun shop employee said that was the 3rd one he has seen sent back. The gun shop employee incidentally said there is a part - don't know which - some kind of spring or clip between the frame and cylinder that tends to fly out during shooting.

Long story short, my dad got his gun back, shot 50 rounds of .38 and it was OK. But he said he saw strange wear marks on the peice I mentioned earlier (sorry I really didn't understand from his description over the phone).

That's my experience with that gun.

Here's my experience with mountain bike racing - lighter parts break more frequently and don't last as long. Same thing applies here, I think.

GJgo · Feb 4, 2009

I've owned two of them. I no longer own either- they have both been replaced by their steel counterparts. Hint hint.

They both shot a little loose in a thousand rounds or so, and just had various weirdness in my cases.

FWIW, YMMV, etc.

Quiet · Feb 4, 2009

I have a S&W scandium framed revolver (S&W Model 325PD, paid $408 OTD for it).

You'll more likley to have a problem with the S&W internal lock system before the frame cracks.

J.R.W. · Feb 4, 2009

I owned a 340PD for a few weeks. The gap between the cylinder/forcing cone opened up to the point I was getting some serious lateral fireballs. S&W fixed the gun for free and I promptly traded it in. From what I could tell, the stainless steel barrel had galled the aluminum threads in the frame and started to "walk forward". I think for an item that you may bet your life on, it had better function 100%, which is why I bought a revolver. If you plan on this being a range toy, by all means buy it. Smith will fix it when/if it breaks. If this will be your sole defense weapon, look elsewhere.

Defense Minister · Feb 4, 2009

I have this combination in the 386 and I love it. However, it is not a gun I shoot often. It's my backpacking gun, and I only take it to the range once a year. I bought it solely for this purpose because of it's extreme light weight. If I was going to shoot it often, I would stick to .38s. Not so much because of recoil, but because it just doesn't seem quite right touching off lots of magnum rounds in a revolver that feels like a cap gun.

Lucky Strike · Feb 4, 2009

i was going to buy one for pocket carry and luckily had a chance to shoot one at a range before buying. After the first shot i had a bloody thumb (from teh cylinder release)....after 15 shots i was done with it and finished off the box of .38's (can't imagine what .357 would have felt like) with my GP100.

Ended up getting a 642 instead and am very happy with it...shooting it is pleasant in comparison

Sorry i don't have any experience as far reliability but i'd really try shooting one before buying it.

Hostile Amish · Feb 5, 2009

Steel has worked for years and years. Even if it's better than steel, which it probably is not, the price difference will eat you up.

9mmepiphany · Feb 5, 2009

i've been told by a S&W pistolsmith that the Sc frame will wear faster than the steel and the intent of their introduction is to capture the demand for a light/comfortable gun in a serious calibre...which it does very well.

most folks who buy them won't put enough rounds through them to see the accelerated wear. after the Sigma .380 fiasco, S&W learned not to tell anyone the life expectency.

but before you think i'm just a exotic metal hater. i'll say that i do own a SW1911 Sc (LW commander) fully knowing what i'm getting and the pistolsmith i mentioned earlier regularly replaces steel cylinders with Ti ones because they wear better

WC145 · Feb 5, 2009

I have a S&W scandium framed revolver (S&W Model 325PD, paid $408 OTD for it).

Wow!! Where'd you find a 325PD for $400?! I need to start shopping there.

You always hear about the few problem guns, seldom the thousands that work just fine. I have a 360 (scandium frame/steel cyl) that's been rechambered to 9mm. The gun shoots great, is light and easy to carry. It's my favorite carry piece (and BUG), I've had no issues with it and don't anticipate any.

mongo4567 · Feb 5, 2009

I have a S&W 360SC and I love it. I wouldn't expect it to eat 30k rounds...wouldn't want to shoot it that much anyway. I shot it 200 rounds or so to validate reliability. It is so light that I barely notice it when carrying. If I want to shoot a bunch I will grab a model 66 or the like.

bamawrx · Feb 5, 2009

Shot mine in .45 with blazer and after one or two shots the unfired bullets fell out the front of the cylinder! The recoil was so severe the projectiles unseated and were loose in the cylinder. Very dangerous I'm sure. So if you get one, make sure you avoid the aluminum cases.

It also hit about 2 feet high at about 10 yards. Again, only from recoil. If you put a deathblow grip on it, it would hit just right. As a result, I do not use this firearm for self defense.

20nickels · Feb 5, 2009

The main problem, as described above me, is bullet pull with fast and light bullets (125 gr .357's) so stick to the heavier bullets. Otherwise the S&W's are fine guns. The Ti cylinders are tough as nails and often made better than the steel ones.

jpatterson · Feb 5, 2009

I've got a SW1911Sc as well, and also no problems with it so far. I've only put about 200 rounds through it though. I'll definitely post something on here about it if I ever run into any problems that may have some connection to the Sc.

I would also like to hear any more information about testing.

Fat Boy · Feb 5, 2009

After all the comments (thanks very much, by the way!) I guess I should have started with an additional comment; I am looking at a 325PD, which chambers the .45 acp via moon or half-moon clips...

Would the heavier, slower moving round make any difference in the problems mentioned above?

WC145 · Feb 6, 2009

After all the comments (thanks very much, by the way!) I guess I should have started with an additional comment; I am looking at a 325PD, which chambers the .45 acp via moon or half-moon clips...

Would the heavier, slower moving round make any difference in the problems mentioned above?

I would think that the recoil won't be as violent as the .357mags and you wouldn't have the same issues have the same issues with bullet pull.
BTW, you should be shopping where Quiet got his.

20nickels · Feb 6, 2009

Fat boy,
Proper grips (grips that fit you) will go a long way to reduce felt recoil. In the mean time Hogue's X-frame grips with the soft recoil absorbing backstrap would be a good start as they fit the N frame.
Most everybody I have talked to likes their S&W 325. Maybe you can talk Bamawrx out of his :evil:

Big Bill · Feb 6, 2009

Buy a Ruger SP101 or a Ruger GP100 and be done with it. Carry a little extra weight now if you plan to pass it down later.

gglass · Feb 6, 2009

BamawRX

It also hit about 2 feet high at about 10 yards. Again, only from recoil. If you put a deathblow grip on it, it would hit just right. As a result, I do not use this firearm for self defense.

Don't throw the baby out with the bathwater... Just aim for the crotch and you'll hit the heart every time.

gazpacho · Feb 6, 2009

I have a 340PD that has about 500 rounds thru it, 50 in 357mag. No problems so far.

Due to it's extreme light weight, the cylinder release has a tendency to eat your thumb, unless you grip it with a low thubmb knuckle hold. Also, unless you are REALLY strong, fast controlled follow-up shots with 357 is really difficult.

What I really wanted was the 342, the scand/ti 38 revolver, but it was discontinued, when I started looking for one. I fire predominantly 38spec +P in my 340PD. Considering that the revolver is designed to withstand 357 mag, I expect the revolver to last a long time with a slow but steady diet of 38 special.

Scandium - actual test or other analysis data?

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