Polishing a Revolver

Yeah, if you polish it, there will ALWAYS be fingerprints and scratches unless you vacuum seal the gun. It is easy, however, to simply polish the scratches back out again, and again, and again....

First let's define what polishing really is. A lot of folks think that spraying on a cleaner and wiping it off is polishing. Nope, that's just making what you have clean and shiney. But the base metal finish is still there. REAL polishing is an abrasive metal removal technique. It may not remove much but it is a removal process every bit as much as sanding. It's just that it's at a far more fine level.

The brushed look buffing job that comes stock on most of the stainless S&W's I've seen will need more than some flitz. I'd say likely two or three other levels of abrasive and some polishing compounds before you even think about Flitz. And I would suggest strongly that you do NOT use a Dremel since the small wheel will generate dips and valleys that will show as waviness in the finish. Polishing of this sort is a process of metal removal so this is a very real concern.

Similarly I would not recomend that you just buy a buffing wheel and compound sticks for your grinder and start in. Again, the buffing compounds and pad will remove metal and the first parts to go are the nice sharp detail edges like around the flutes on the cylinder.

You're not going to like the answer but the best way to do this is remove all the inside bits and send the big lumpy bits out to a proffesional plater and polisher that you know is good by reputation or seeing sample of their work. This will not be cheap but a pro will know enough to protect the details that make the gun really jump out and not just pass it over the big wheel and make it look like a half used bar of soap.

Oh, and ensure that they don't do ANYTHING to the muzzle crown. Nuthin', zip, nada.... Remember that polishing is metal removal. You can't get the finish without removing the high points down to the base of the valleys in the surface texture.

I would totally recommend AGAINST using a Dremel to polish a gun. I tried this on a spot that is hidden under my grips on my stainless 1911, and you can see streaks of polished metal as wide as the polishing wheel, but I couldn't get a blended uniform look.

I polished my 686 by hand (approximately 17 hours of work). I started out by going over the whole gun with Mother's Mag Polish on a soft rag. But in order to truly get that shine, I finished it up by using Mother's Billet Polish (which is kind of expensive), again on a soft rag. I just used my hands, and yes your fingers will be very tired after it's over. (I got the recommendation for this method off of these forums I believe.)

Both of these polishes can be bought at auto-parts stores; the Mag polish can be bought at Wal-Mart I think.

On top is a before and after taken the day I finished polishing. However, I decided that the hammer and trigger needed polished as well, so the last picture is after I took the hammer and trigger out and polished them too. Also, I have new grips installed in the last picture.

I have some photos posted in this area in a post: "For Ruger SA Fans", of a gun that I just finished modifying. The gun was subject to hard and continuous use for many years, and after the mods I polished it out. The surface needed to be sanded to get rid of all the nicks, dings, and dents, and then I polished (buffed) the gun on a commercial type buffer with varying grades of compounds (but, this is only a prerequisite step to an eventual high grade satin finish). If you do not have the experience or equipment to do this you have two alternatives....do as Brockgl did and do it by hand, or take it to a pro (who has experience working with firearms!!!!). Most who "refinish" firearms, especially with the bluing process have the necessary equipment and skills to polish a firearm properly. A properly polished stainless handgun is a beautiful thing to behold, but, will require continuous upkeep to maintain that beautiful finish.

I've personally been polishing my shooter stainless wheelguns for years.
They get more attention at the range, are easier to clean when I'm done at the range and sell faster than my non polished guns if and when I ever sell any.
I polished the 500 magnum shown below using NO tools other than my hands, a couple rags and some Mothers mag & mothers billet polish. It came out looking so good, I gave it to a local engraver and he did all the engraving by hand (old school) with no power tools.
The darn thing came out looking so good, I can't come to shoot it anymore.
At the range, people will say, I didn't know they made a nickel version of that model. When I tell them it's not nickel it's stainless they can't believe it and want to know if I'll do it for them.





Jeff (GUNKWAZY)

Jeff; That looks absolutely beautiful!!! How many hours did you spend on that!!!!!

I bought this 686 cheap ($250) because of the rust and corrosion it was covered with. I had been fired then stored in a damp closet for many years. A complete disassemble, an hour of 600-1200 grit paper and about a half hour with a eight inch buffing wheel gave me this.

Jeff,

You are the one who gave me the idea of Mother's Mag and Billet polish. And I REALLY appreciate it! Those guns are beautiful, btw.

...all these guns are beautiful, regardless of how they are done, but, you guys that do this by hand...have WAY to much free time!!!! LOL!!!