My custom Mountain Gun is a-l-m-o-s-t done.

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steveracer

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So, I bought a 629 MG and decided it was almost perfect, and went about making it the way I like.
Chamfered charge holes, SDM semi-adjustable rear sight, dehorn entire gun, remove lock, polish turn line and face of cylinder, Ahrends grips, and Lobo Gunleather OWB rig. The only thing left to do is get a gold bead front sight, and pin it in place.
I love it, it shoots like a dream. It's the first revolver I've done by myself, and I think it came out cool. (Jury's still out on the polished turn line. Thinking of hitting it with glass bead again)
Thanks for looking!
Steve
 

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I'm actually still looking for the old style latch, which I prefer, and I really want to cut it to 3.25" (to keep the full length ejector rod and make is a little nicer for carry)
Thanks
Steve
 
Makes reloading a bit faster. The edges of the holes are beveled to allow wider bullets easier entry.
 
Nice work. If you decide to leave the turn line polished - maybe polish the hammer and the trigger?

Once again, nice!
 
Nice.

1) I'd say leave the polished turn line. If you blast it, a ragged polish line will just show back up in no time from shooting it. Maybe make it more narrow if you want, but I don't think it's a big deal.

2) Numrich's should have a ss old type cylinder latch for you - and they have reasonable shipping on small orders, too. Check them out. The only old style ones I have lying about are blued.

3) If you bob it to 3.25", how do you propose to do the front sight? It will take off most of the sight base forward of the front ramp. Will you just mill it all off and put on a very tall blade, or what?

I ask, as I want to do the same thing to a 28 to make myself a "28-2" Mountain gun in .357 - a project I have had in mind for over a year now (waiting to find a cheap donor 28). I want to make it 3.125 to 3.25" for ease of carry and to share leather with my other 3/3.5" N frames.

I also like your choice of a Call bead front sight. I love those, too. I would really like to see how you adapt one of those to a 3.125" or 3.25" bob on that barrel (I figure that 3.125" is as short as you can go without getting into having to cut and reshape the front lug).

My "mountain gun" when in the Cascades here is a 629-1 3", round butt. It's not 1/2 the project of yours, of course, but it's the same concept, clearly. I also like how it appears you have tapped and filled the lock hole. You could start a whole new trend in "post-3 screw Four screw revolvers." Now that will make the collectors scratch their heads.
 
Oro,
Thank you for the comments. As to your questions:
I will likely go with a base up fron for interchangeable sights. SDM Machine has been great about the sights, and answering my questions, but I really wanted to do this myself. I might drill and tap a shotgun ramp with dovetail for interchanging sights up there. Not hard, as the rib is deep enough to allow for a good bolt-on type ramp. My M500 has one of these, and I have measured it a hundred times for this, and it will actually be much cheaper than anything else. Keep in mind I did this gun with hand tools only, with the exception of blasting. I don't own a milling machine, and won't use a dremel on my guns. (Learned that the hard way)
I will probably get a crown cutter from a friend, hacksaw the barrel, crown, hand-file off the ramp, and bolt on new ramp by drill and tap. I have drilled and tapped on guns before by hand, by using a hard center punch to get the starting point. This one is much softer than the Norinco and Makarov that I did last. The Norc ruined three dovetail cutters for the front sight. (I sent that one off to be done)
I did the shotgun bead as a front sight on my 10-5, and it came out great. I filed a flat where the ramp sight had been, and punched, drilled, tapped, and screwed on the bead. Then I rounded out the rear sight channel to allow for a good view of the bead. Works really well on a carry piece. When I get the cylinder back I'll put it together and post it up here!
Best,
Steve
 
Actually, I like the barrel length the way it is. Really no reason to shorten it since it's a woods carry gun IMO. You did a very nice job, very nice...
 
Looks nice to me here. Not sure on the champher idea though as its a 44 mag, you need to speed load a .44 you need a rifle. But its still a Mtn Gun..cant ever go wrong that way!
 

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The Norc ruined three dovetail cutters for the front sight.

Yeah, I've heard that about Norinco's, too (I have one, but have never cut the slide). I did bob the rear for a beaver tail, and it was just normal forged steel hardness. Chuck Rogers (Rogers Precision) explained in another thread recently it was because Norinco silver soldered the front sight on, and that was why there was localized hardness there.

Anyway, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions and I look forward to seeing it when the front is bobbed and the sight is on. If you want, take some pictures of the process and make a post to entertain us. Very neat work.
 
Steve - do post that front sight ramp system - I am working on a Model 66 that the barrel is trimmed to just over 3" and was thinking about a shorty williams ramp for a dovetail base on the front sight. (then a hi-viz),Would like to see your sytem.

Buttrap : How do those grips work out for you ? Do they handle recoil well, fit well, and keep good control ? I am thinking of these for a K-Frame and have a friend that does schrimshaw personalization for me on irovy or ivory polymer. I usualy go with a straight grip and use a Tyler to help with fit, but would like to know how you get along with the style you have .
 
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Steve; Be proud that you accomplished most of the work on this gun with hand tools! When I learned custom smithing over 40 years ago, I was taught by an old time gunsmith that used nothing but hand tools as well. His work was "art"!!!!! When I was actually in the business, I had all the machine shop equipment, etc, and eventually sold off the equipment, and got out of the business. I still do custom gunsmithing today on a limited basis, but it is all done by hand...and with hand tools. I have come full circle, and find it much more rewarding (although a bit slower), and my customers really appreciate the detail that doing things the "old school" way produces. Congratulations on a job well done!
 
Nice work but I hope that removing the safety lock never becomes a legal issue.

I know... I know... I'm the only person in the world who thinks a lawyer would give you Hell in court after a shooting just because a storage safety device was removed.

The only person who isn't a lawyer, anyway...
 
I carried a HiPower for years and years and years with the mag disconnect removed. I sold it to a buddy, who used it in a defensive shooting. The disconnect was never an issue. I'm sure the lock would be the same. I CCW this gun now, and have no qualms about the lock being gone, daddy gone.
steve
 
What part of the rig Steve? The 4" holster is a C.O.M. as is the speedloader pouch. Very nice kydex. The 6" 629 low ride holster is unobtanium however as Mad Dog made it special in the day.
 
Did a little more.

Trimmed the hammer, spent some more time polishing, and mostly just carrying it and shooting it a lot.
Maybe, just maybe, some different grips for it later. (Anyone know why Pachmayr doesn't make the Compac Pro for the N-frame? The Compac is a little fat, and lengthens the trigger reach a little too much for me. The Pro is an awesome grip, but not available for N-frames. Rant over)
Here's some pics:
 

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