Newbie & newbie question about slugs

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NoAlibi

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Hello Everyone,

This is my first post here, so if I’m off-track please assume that it’s a newbie error and get me back on track. That said...

I tried researching my question on THR and it was more information than I wanted! Moreover, I didn’t get a specific answer from some of the information overload and it wound up raising more questions than it answered.

I was invited to hunt at a friend’s lease this coming season that requires shotgun only. I’m an old hand at shotgunning with shot, i.e.; reloading, competition international skeet, dove-quail-duck hunting etc., but NO experience with slugs except an occasional pot shot at a water-filled milk jug with a smooth bore. The usual ranges will be between 30 to 150 yards.

I bought a 3" chambered Remington 11-87 with a rifled barrel and I put a 2-7x scope on it as was suggested by my friend - so that’s a given that I’ll be living with and I hope it was good advice.

Question 1. Is there any real advantage using 1 1/4 oz. slugs over 1 oz. slugs at these ranges?

Question 2. Some of the threads mentioned sabots. Many years ago I remember seeing shuttlecock designed slugs wrapped in a wad-like sabot. Is this what they were talking about and is there an advantage of this design in a rifled barrel?

Question 3. I do shoot pistol bullets in sabots out of my muzzle loader. Does anyone make a sabot that will hold a rifle or pistol bullet in a 12 gauge hull?

Question 4. What is the optimal sighting-in distance for both the 1 and 1 1/4 oz. loads?

I’d appreciate any information you can provide and if this is a question overload I will apologize in advance.
 
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Hi, NA, and welcome to THR.

1) With the sabot slugs you need to be shooting in your rifled barrel, those weights won't apply. Sabots are lighter than the rifled slugs (Foster or Brenneke types) which are used in smoothbore barrels. Most often, the sabot slugs cost more also. What slug is best is the one that shoots best in your gun. Buy a variety of available brands and try 'em, is the best advice I can give. Then buy more of what works best.

2) Yes, pretty much, though some sabot slugs are straight- sided nowadays and not wasp-waisted.

3) I don't know of any, but you want a rifle bullet equivalent for that job, not a pistol bullet.

4) That'll depend on the trajectory of the load you wind up using, and the maximum range at which you can be effective with it. Shooting slugs while sighting in a shotgun and testing groups from various brands is no picnic. If you can only get good groups out to 50 yards or 100 yards, you shouldn't push the gun and load beyond your own ability to hit with it. Risking only wounding animals by exceeding your own skills in the field is not sporting.

If you can manage to group well at longer ranges, sighting in at the midrange point of the trajectory is likely your best bet. That will depend on the load you use, but the ammo box should give you some ideas.

hth,

lpl
 
None of them will weigh anywhere even close to 1 or 1 1/4 oz.

Always at least one exception to every rule....one of my fav projectiles. The Lee keyed slug runs 7/8oz and 1oz, is shaped generally like a foster slug, and is designed to be loaded into a standard shotcup wad as a sabot. Of course, that relies on the OP loading his own ammo....and I doubt he's up to that quite yet.

rich
 
Don’t say I didn’t warn you!

When I said that I had no experience with slugs, it appears that was an understatement! My first lesson was finding out that you HAD to use sabots in a rifled barrel. I got a lot more education when rc sent me on a long journey with his posted links resulting in one link leading to another.

There’s a large and varied selection of sabot slugs available in factory loads and components that should keep me busy for a good while.

I’m going to start with these three factory rounds because they have some very impressive performance specs.:

Remington Buckhammer Ammunition 12 Gauge 3" 1-3/8 oz Lead Sabot Slug Box of 5
$7.99 Manufacturer #: 20719 Muzzle Velocity: 1500 fps Muzzle Energy: 3232 ft. lbs.
Notes: Designed specifically for rifled barrels but can also be used in smooth bore barrels.

Remington Buckhammer Ammunition 12 Gauge 2-3/4" 1-1/4 oz Lead Sabot Slug Box of 5
$6.99 Manufacturer #: 20723 Muzzle Velocity: 1550 fps Muzzle Energy: 2935 ft. lbs.
Notes: Designed specifically for rifled barrels but can also be used in smooth bore barrels.

Remington Premier Ammunition 12 Gauge 3" 385 Grain AccuTip Bonded Sabot Slug with Power Port Tip Box of 5
$12.79 Manufacturer #: 20731 Muzzle Velocity: 1900 fps Muzzle Energy: 3086 ft. lbs.
Notes: Designed specifically for rifled barrels but can also be used in smooth bore barrels.


There’s a lot to choose from for sabot slug components and I decided to try the ones made by BPI that rc put me onto and one other from Gualandi.

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Barnes XPB Handgun Bullets 500 S&W 375 Grain Hollow Point Lead-Free Box of 20
$20.99 Manufacturer #: 50028

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BPI BLS-12 Ballistic Sabot 12 Gauge Package of 50
$9.89 Manufacturer #: 322BLS

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BPI Shotshell Wads Flex-Seal Gas Seals 12 Gauge Bag of 200
$6.87 Manufacturer #: 072FS12old

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Gualandi Target Shotshell Slug 12 Gauge 1 oz Lead Sabot Box of 25
$13.99 Manufacturer #: 0721610

Lee: Thanks for the welcome. I found factory sabot slugs and sabot components that were in as about as many weights as non-sabots, so it looks like this stuff is catching up with the smoothbore offerings.

I agree that a rifle bullet in a sabot would be a better choice than a pistol bullet, but the sabots that I found were designed to hold a .500 diameter bullet which pretty much leaves you in the pistol offerings. The one that I bought is a close match to a spire point and had the best ballistic coefficient of all the 50s.

Virginian: Me, use a sissy bag? You betcha! My mama didn’t raise any foolish children, but I having second thoughts about that because I just spent $175 on ammo, components and shipping!

Thanks to all - you’ve really been very helpful.

PS - RandKL: If I'm in for a penny, I'm in for a pound! LOL!
 

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Getting ready to pull the handle

The stuff I ordered from Midway and BPI came in today, so I'm going through all my excuses (honey-dews) to get to the loading bench. :rolleyes: I'm guessing two weeks... :mad:

RandKL: You mentioned your success with the Lee slug mold, so I bought the 1 ouncer.

Are there any tips that you or any others can give me about the selection of wads, powder and crimping? :confused:

Thanks for your input.
 
I agree that a rifle bullet in a sabot would be a better choice than a pistol bullet,
Actually, most of the loaded sabot ammo uses the same muzzle loader bullets they sell as seperate bullets for black powder shooters.

.458" "rifle" bullets are constructed with a much too heavy jacket to expand properly at shotgun velocity.

rc
 
Got to use sabot slugs?

Well you don't actually "have to" use sabot slugs. In fact I only use foster slugs in my rifled barrel 11/87. The rifiling was supposed to fill with lead and the gun was supposed to inaccurate. 600+ rounds later it shoots like a dream and I have yet to see any lead build up. It blasts clays at 100 yards all day long. Now is the reccommended? Not at all, but I figure I have saved about $400 shooting the cheap slugs, more than enough to buy a new barrel should one become neccesary.
 
I just finished an article from the August 2008 "American Rifleman" where a variety of slugs were tested from two guns: the Remington 870 and the H&R Ultra Slug Hunter.

After testing a variety of slugs from Remington, Winchester, Hornady and others, the top performer on both guns was the Federal Barnes 328 gr. Expander Tipped Sabot Slug

Expansion was quite impressive, as well.

I'm not much of a slug hunter, but the article was very informative.
 
RandKL: You mentioned your success with the Lee slug mold, so I bought the 1 ouncer.

Are there any tips that you or any others can give me about the selection of wads, powder and crimping?

NA, the Lee keyed slug is designed specifically so it loads into standard size shotcup/wads. I use Red Dot and Blue Dot powders, myself, but I haven't even bothered buying any the past year. Red Dot or Bue Dot under a Remington RXP wad inside a Remington green hull. My kegs sit on the shelf unused, though. I don't shoot clays anymore these days so I don't get into a lot of heavy reloading. Hell, I don't even bother casting anymore, really. I buy them by the hundreds from a guy in Canada on gunbroker.

Head to Walmart or Cabelas or Sportmansguide or Midway etc and buy yourself a few boxes of whichever 1oz target ammo they have on the shelf that's cheapest....something like a 1oz Federal Top Gun etc. If you can find more than one in a decent price range, look at the fps second. Shot size makes no diff.

Open the shell with a small slotted screwdriver etc and dump the shot into a plastic soda pop bottle. It's too expensive to waste these days. Open the hull up wide and push the Lee keyed slug down into the same shotcup and recrimp. No special wads nor buffers etc necessary. Some wads might have thin petals that tend to bend....on those, just use a needlenose plier to jerk it out far enough, load the slug into it and then reseat it. The Lee slug is sized so it fits the exact same space as 1oz of shot. 1oz of lead is 1oz of lead no matter the form it's in so your fps and chamber pressure etc will be identical. A 1200-1300fps #7 1/2 shot shell will be the same 1200-1300fps when loaded with the Lee slug. If you load the 1oz slug into a 1 1/8oz target shell, you'll get about 1420fps. The 1200-1300fps load is akin to a factory reduced recoil load....it's a lot easier on old shoulders. The 1420fps is middling in velocity but still perfect for hunting. My brother in law loads his to 1 1/4oz....he's younger than I am by a few years, though. I see no reason to beat myself up with handloaded ammo no more than factory ammo.

They equal or exceed any factory slugs I've compared them to in terms of accuracy. From a rifled barrel, they work damned fine! They might resemble a Foster slug but they *aren't Foster slugs*. From a smoothbore, they tumble at extended ranges and lose accuracy. They are, however, terrific short/medium range HD or hunting projectiles in a smoothbore.

You can buy a box of cheapo target shells in the $5 range. Slugs go 10 cents a piece in bulk. That lets you load a Lee keyed slug in a factory shell for approx 30 cents a pop. Far easier on the wallet than $1 a shot factory ammo.

Peace.

richard
 
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Damn, I can't wait to try this!

RandKL:
You can buy a box of cheapo target shells in the $5 range. Slugs go 10 cents a piece in bulk. That lets you load a Lee keyed slug in a factory shell for approx 30 cents a pop. Far easier on the wallet than $1 a shot factory ammo.

What a great tip!!! Last year I bought 20 boxes of promotional 1 oz. dove loads for $3.75 a box and I have about 200 pounds of pure lead cable shielding that a buddy of mine gave to me, so I'm in for about 15 cents a pop! I'll have a reprieve from chores for the 4th of July, so I'll fire up the furnace and cast some slugs - damn, I can't wait to try this! :D

Titan6: Just so I'm clear about this - you're saying that I can't damage a rifled barrel with non-sabot slugs and the worst that can happen is that you get leading which can be cleaned out?

The reason I'm asking is that a shooting buddy wants to trade almost a full case of Winchester 1 oz. slugs that he doesn't need for some yet to be determined amount of corrosive German 7.62x39 ammo that I don't want.

rc: When I re-read my post (#7) I can see that I wasn't clear about the rifle bullets. What I meant was that rifle bullets usually have a better aerodynamic shape and it would contribute to greater downrange velocity and energy than most pistol bullets. The Barnes XPB pistol bullet seems to have solved this problem for me. :)

I reload the 45-70 Gov't cartridge and there are some .458 hunting bullets made for the trapdoor that have thin jackets because their velocities are several hundred fps slower than similar weighted sabot slug bullets. This is a moot point anyway, because the sabots you put me on to are for .500 caliber bullets. Sorry for the confusion. :uhoh:

firesafety3: Thanks for the heads-up on the article. The info about firing 2 3/4" shells in a 3" chamber was very interesting. When I load my "serious" stuff, I'll be using the 3" hull - thanks!
 
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