Glock experts: what epoxy would you use to fill a hole on a Glock frame?

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doublebarrel

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Hi everyone,

What I need to accomplish here is to fill a hole on a Glock frame using epoxy, and make it appear as natural as possible (black colored epoxy when dried, for example). The reason I need to do this, is that I've had a Cominolli manual safety put in my Glock, now I need to take it out. That will leave a hole in the frame. Doesn't really interfere with the operation, but I like to restore it back to "normal" if the cost is no more than a tube of epoxy...

As for why I need to take the manual safety out, I'd write a full review of this experiment when I got time. In short, there's nothing wrong with manual safety. It worked as designed, and functioned 100%. Mr. Cominolli is a very nice person, he even custom made a safety lever for me at no charge after I called him, and shipped to me at his expense. It's my way of gripping the gun that got in the way of the safety lever. Basically, to make it work, one has to shoot with their strong-hand thumb OVER the safety lever, riding that lever, thumb pointing down range. Their left thumb would be alongside, also pointing straight ahead. I saw a lot of 1911 people shoot like that. I can't do it, feels awkward to me. I grip my G23 with my right thumb exactly in the thumb recess that Glock put there on the side of the gun. My left thumb then come on top of that, both pointing kind of downward. In this way my right thumb is UNDER the safety lever. Every time I fire, my right thumb would push up on the lever, by the recoil. And that locks up the gun...

Thanks!

Here's a pic of my Glock with the safety on:
1-1.jpg
 
Do you ski? If you do, do you know of the stuff called "p-tex" which is used to fill-in gouges in the bottom of skis? It is PET material and will probably look closer to the gun polymer than epoxy.

A stick of black p-tex costs about $1.00 and can be melted-in with an iron. When hardened, you can shape and remove it until it is flush with the gun. Look at the video clip here to see and decide if you want to go this route.

http://www.tognar.com/base_repairs_tips_ski_snowboard.html
 
Be aware that like all firearms polymer parts, the Glock frame is a glass fiber bearing plastic to which few adhesives will adhere, including epoxy.

You can fill with many adhesives, but they peel right off since they don't adhere.
 
Perhaps you could donate this Glock to some diving team that dives with sharks. I mean Glocks can fire underwater right???









Just joking. :neener:

Seriously, I don't know much about Glocks. I shoot 1911's.

I really don't know how you would fix that.

Luke
 
The Lord co. in North Carolina makes a product called fusor. I use it on all types of plastic and it works great. Its a little expensive and requires a applicator gun. Go to a auto body repair shop they might loan you the gun. The color is right and its a strong repair.
 
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I think Brownells sells a couple of resins that are used for things like grip reductions, butfrom what I've seen, they are UGLY.

I think you can get a replacement frame for $175 (don't quote me on that), and that might be the way to go.

Dan
 
Hk Dan: said:
I think you can get a replacement frame for $175 (don't quote me on that), and that might be the way to go.

+1 to what Hk Dan said.

This is the strongest and most naturally appearing/aesthetic "fix" that I can think of.

The addition of the "Cominolli Safety" requires a permanent and irrevocable alteration to the Glock frame (the "cut") that is not easily repaired which is why I'd never do it in the first place unless I was absolutely certain that it was what I wanted, "forever". I believe that you'll spend a considerable amount of time trying to "correct" this "modification" and if you are looking for a truly reliable and aesthetic solution this looks to be the best way to go.
 
pardon my ignorance...

I'd call Glock and clarify...with or without the repair I think you are SOL since Glock probably won't stand behind a modified frame; not sure what to tell you to cheer you up
 
Thanks a lot to all the comments above! I'll try to read on the products like p-tex and fusor, on the Internet. The other board I posted this to, INGO (Indiana Gun Owner forum), some people mentioned Plastic Welder by ITW Devcon. I went to their website, and they actually mentioned their product would work on the material Glock use for their frame, "Nylon 6" or "Nylon 6,6". Since the cut does not affect the operation of the gun, I'll take it slow...

Now, I was pretty certain about what I wanted, and the safety did work as described. I just couldn't imagine my grip would have to be altered to adapt to the thing. I WILL sell the whole kit later to recoup some cost (material cost, as the labor I paid the gunsmith is toast now)....

About the replacement frame, I actually called Glock customer service yesterday, just to see if they'd offer any "free" advice. I waited about three minutes before a live person came on the line, better than I thought, and definitely better than Microsoft hotline. The guy laughed out loud when I told him that I needed to fill a hole in my Glock. I told him I didn't put the hole in the gun, but a certified Glock armorer did, to install the safety. He told me first of all, they don't give advice what to use to fill the hole, they don't endorse any third party addon (of course not), they consider any alteration the customer did to the gun as unauthorized (yeah yeah), and they consider the frame had been destroyed. He then said that they do sell the frame for $150 separately, but if I send my frame in, he'd replace it for $43 (pretty good deal, guess I can afford a few KBs in the future, being a 40-caliber Glock mine is). It will be my last resort, if I can't find a sure way to fix that cut, and if that cut annoys me to point that I have to fix it...

So, if any Glock people out there would like to have their frame replaced, you can ask Glock to do it for $43 (I don't think they'd cover your shipping, but I didn't ask them specifically)...
 
doublebarrel said:
(pretty good deal, guess I can afford a few KBs in the future, being a 40-caliber Glock mine is)

Can you provide evidence of these kabooms on a Glock using .40 caliber ammo that is NOT hand loaded over-capacity?

I believe this kaboom problem to be an Internet legend. Or these kabooms are happening with people who are hand loading their rounds over capacity. In that case, then yeah the gun is supposed to kaboom.
 
$43.00? Now that is what I call service. Sounds like a very fair price (can you say "cheep" :D ) for replacing a frame altered out of warranty.

You can do as you wish, but I know what I'd be doing if I were in your position. ;)

Glock CS has always been terrific whenever I have needed it. Seems like they still are.
 
FORTY THREE DOLLARS???? Good Lord, man, you could barely JB Weld it for that!!! LOL

Congrats, buddy! Easy fix, and the right one to boot.

Dan
 
That's $150 for the new frame and $43 for the labor, for a total of $193. Correct?

Still, I would do that, or even keep it as is, or buy another, before I would put some substance that will ultimately work like glue along a moving part of a firearm.
 
That's $150 for the new frame and $43 for the labor, for a total of $193. Correct?

i'm pretty sure the $43 would be the cost for a frame

i don't know what it cost in your state, but i think the transfer fees would be more than the cost of the frame.

i'm pretty sure they're not talking about transferring you serial number to the new frame, but i might be wrong
 
Yep, a friend of mine damaged the rail on his G30SF and sent it back to Glock...they charged $47 for a new frame and that included return shipping...bummer was that it took 3 months to get it back...something about the frame manufacturing cycle, etc, etc ...
 
Were it mine, I would use the shafting expoxy that golfsmiths use to adhere a graphite golf shaft to a club head. You can buy a graphite-specific epoxy from places like Golfsmith that are black in color. If you know anything about club work, or golf in general, you'll recognize that you will break the shaft or the head before the epoxy bond will let go, and that's saying something, given the pressure that a club is under during the swing and subsequent contact with the ball.
 
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