arisaka type 99 sieres 21

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tigeroldlone

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I have one sporterized type 99 arisaka series 21 still chambred in 7.7. I also have a series 21 reciver and was wondering if either would be strong enought to build a custom rille off? I was think of a rifle chambred in 30/06 but am not certin when this series waw made. Any help will come in handy and I will post pics later.

Since I am new if I posted this in the wrong place let me know and thanks again.
 
I have a sporterized type 99, with the original barrel that was shortened at the breech and a new chamber cut using 30-06 dimensions for the case body and finish reamed for the original 7.7X58. I can make cases from readily available brass and not worry about the oversized chamber so common on sporterized "31 Japs". It is beautifully done, highly polished, deeply blued and drilled for weaver bases, no sights. I paid $80.00 for it and it is a fantastic shooter, as accurate and pleasant to shoot as any sporting rifle I've ever owned. The only problem is actuation of the safety, it's impossible with a scope. The stock is a beautiful piece of nicely figured walnut, tastefully done with modest checkering and a nice wundhummer(SP) type pistol grip. Great rifle and worth many times what I paid for it.
 
How cany you tell if it is not one of the laste ditch versions? Is there a web site that gives the sieral number range for the series 21 and when they were made? The only info I have found was on the wikepedia page showing what the marking meant.



I posted pics on a diffrent site I will try to get them posted on here or post the link to the thread
 
jap 99

there is a substitute standard.a last ditch has a cast receiver and the bolt locks into the barrel.the substitute is like the rem springfield with stampings
I would make it 308 for the length but many japs were converted to 06 in korea after WW2.jap 99 are plenty strong.
 
I had been thinking of the 308 over the 30-06 for some time now. As for telling the diffrences of the arisaka I have no Ideal. Up till now the only WWII rifles I have messed with have been the mosin nagants. What I was thinking off is if the rifle in the photo reciver was the right type converting it and then building as close as I could version of the origenal to put on my wall. The one that is just the reciver still has the mumb intact, It does however have surface rust. I was not for sure if anything could be told by my photos when i get my camra back from my mother I will take more pics.
 
It would be a fun do it yourself project if you have the tools and knowhow.
It would get expensive to pay a gunsmith to turn what you have into either a correct military rifle or a good sporter.
 
I am no gunsmith so it will be going to the gunsmith. The one I go to has allready given me the price he would charge and it was not that bad. He uses barrel balnks for every rifle he makes so there is no problem there. As for the reciver if I get all the parts i should be able to put together a correct version to place on my wall. This way I will end up with two great looking rifles.
 
How much would it take to convert one to 7.62x39? I have read somewere that the barrel has to be set back anything else major? I am debateing now between this and 308. Would the 7.62x39 be better built on a type 38?
 
The idea of converting a Type 99 to 7.62x39 came about because the Russian round uses a .311" bullet so a new barrel is not needed, only setting back the old one. It is a feasible conversion but IMHO with Japanese rifles increasing in value, not a good one from a viewpoint of future value. It would be converting a collectible and historical rifle into worthless trash. Also, there may be feeding and magazine problems due to the smaller case head of the 7.62x39.

This is just my opinion, of course, but the value of original WWII military rifles of all nations is increasing rapidly. While Japanese rifles were considered junk for many years, selling for as little as $25, they are now not only collectibles but coming to be appreciated for the high quality rifles most of them are. I think the best thing one can do is to leave the guns of history alone and buy a new or used sporting rifle in whatever caliber is wanted. In most cases, not only will the result be better, but the cost will be less in the long run.

Hi, Teddy,

FWIW, I have never seen a "last ditch" Type 99 with a cast receiver, though other parts were clearly altered for fast production. Might you be thinking of those training rifles? There were "last ditch" rifles made to fire the 7.7 and some even more basic rifles made to fire the 8mm pistol cartridge, but those could in no way be called Type 99's; they are totally different. Only a few were made and only a very few have turned up here. None of the true "last ditch" rifles were used in Japan, though a few reportedly turned up on Okinawa.

The rifles usually called "last ditch", with wood or no buttplates, cylindrical bolt knobs, unfinished and uncheckered safeties, and rudimentary sights are fully functional rifles; they were altered for speeded up production, but are not cast. I have fired several with no problems at all; in fact one I have is a tack driver. I would not have wanted to be part of an invasion of Japan if those rifles were widely distributed and used by people determined to give their lives for their emperor and country.

Jim
 
Jim Keenan In the case of my rifle I realy don't think the value will be that great since it hass allready been sportirized. The bolt handel has been turned down and a fix rear site instaled. There are two small rings at the back of were it is mounted which leads me to beliver that it had the AA sites at one time. To finesh it off it is in a nice somewhat worn bishop stock so I do not beilve that it has much value nor that it coule be put back to its orginal form.
Go click on the link above to see the photo of my rifle and you will see what I mean.

Now if all that is needed to covert to 7.62x39 is resin the barrel and some work on the magazine I could live with that . Also I own a wasr 10 and will have a sks here soon. So haveing the ammo on hand would be fine with me I like bolt action rifles anyway and would love to have one in this caliber. The only thin is how much accuracy will I lose with converting it to 7.62x39?
 
I am going to have it redone in 308. Does any one know what the barrel threads would be? It is still chambred in 7.7, Does anyone have a suggestion on which barrel blank to buy for the project?
 
jap

whats wrong with the 7.7 jap you can get loaded rounds from GRAFs.or make your own.it is close to a 8mm mauser round I make them from 06.
JIM:I had one and shot it,it has a cast steel receiver and the barrel has the lugs in it.never saw another.I also had a drill rifle it was cast and the barrelwas cold rolled steel drilled from both ends and had step in middle.this was before 1955.I lived in boston and there were all kinds of bring backs.
lugers, P38,hungarian 37, chek 28?jap nambu.I was going to Went Worth Institute and would bring them in and work on them if needed.I had 2 broom handles rebarreled one with S&W m&p barrel. to 9 mm.had couple G43s with scopes.most were $20,the G43 was $25 new with instuctions and parts.the other was a surplus south american $129.:rolleyes::uhoh:
 
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My eyes are not good enougth to reload so I stick with factory loads or what my gunsmith loads. He has tried to stay away from odd ball rounds because they take too much time. I would also like to have something that is diffrent then what everyone else has. Pluss with the extra reciver I thought it might be fun to build one into a custom rifle and it looks like the 308 will fit without changeing the bolt at all.
 
http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/index.php
Try this forum. Just scroll down until you reach the section on Jap rifles. From there you should be able to find all information on your particular rifle.
BTW I have two Type 99's. One is still a 7.7 Jap. The other is a full blown sporter in .280 Remington.

I grew up shooting an Arisaka that had been rechambered to .308 win. Using the factory barrel, it shot well enough to killmany moose, not a few caribou, several bears, including one camp raiding grizzly.
I watched my Dad, shooting offhand, roll a running moose at 390 measured yards with one 180 grain Silvertip.
That man could shoot, but so did that little Jap rifle.
PS I get my brass from Graf, and use bullets made for the 303 Brit.
 
Oh, by the way, Timney has a sporter trigger with a safety built in. I have not put one in my .280 yet, but I intend to.
 
Thanks for the link I found a lot of usefull info there. I will also have to look into the trigger. For the work it will cost me $180 for the work and what ever the barrel blank coast. I am still thinking of have3ing the work done.
 
The arisaka actions are some of the strongest bolt actions ever made, even today, Ackley tested all the major military actions of his time and the arisaka was one of the top 3.

Late war models are however deemed unsafe by most, poor heat treat and lower quality steel are the most common culprits.

one more think, if you find a really pretty arisaka with crests all over it have a gunsmith check it out, more than likely its a parade gun and completely unsafe to fire.
 
Hello everyone

I have also have a Arisaka Type 99 that we found in the garage of a house my dad bought. It is an earlier t99, but it has no stock or handguard, and i was thinking of making my own, the gun is completly original with the flip up sights and the mum is completly intact, so i want to make an original stock for it. anyone know where i could find a diagram or sumthin to make one?

Thanks
 
Going by the info in the link the series 21 were made in 1942. I am not sur if it would be better to just find one that is complete instead. The one reciver has the mum and I will try to post pics if I ever get my camra back. Griggsy have you found out what series it is yet?
 
Cool I would love to find a sieres 21 that was complete and not butchered. I did find out tuesday that a howa barrel has the exact same thread patternas the arisaka. My gunsmith had one in the shop in 30-06 so instead of $400 to convert it it will only cast $150.
 
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