Help a guy out...

Oil soaked wood is very difficult to ever bring back.
And it is likely the heat and moisture from the dish washer only drove it deeper into the wood.

You might get a can of K2R Spot Remover and try that.

Usually can find it in the grocery store laundry products aisle or a hardware store.

It goes on as a wet spray then drys to a white powder. The powder sucks up oil like a sponge.
Spray it on the exposed end-grain heavy and leave it set over-night to do it's thing.

http://www.jensco.com/thekitchendrawer/cleaning_utility/spot_removers/spotremover56610.html

It is very doubtful though, that you can ever complexly restore oil-soaked wood to it's original color.

BTW: Oil stains are too deep to sand it out, so don't even try.

A stock sanded down smaller then the receiver or butt-plate looks far worse then the oil stains.

rc

Not sure if this will work but I seem to recall my dad said you could draw oil stains out of wood by covering the affected area with brown paper and applying a hot iron (like you press your shirts with). The oil is drawn out of the wood and soaked up into the paper. Might be worth a shot.

"Not sure if this will work but I seem to recall my dad said you could draw oil stains out of wood by covering the affected area with brown paper and applying a hot iron (like you press your shirts with). The oil is drawn out of the wood and soaked up into the paper. Might be worth a shot."

I don't know if that works for oil stains, as much as it works for dents and dings. I have an old Sears model 101.xxxx that was dinged very badly. I used a very damp washcloth and ironed on high the dents. lifted about 95% of the dings to 'unnoticible'. But be careful about steam burns to your skin. That little bugger gets very hot. It works excellently.

+1

A hot iron & damp rag is used to remove dents, not oil.

Heat & steam will only drive oil stains deeper into the wood.

rc

Hmmm. The whole drawing oil into the brown paper thing certainly seemed plausable.

How about trying this then? I'd try it on a piece of regular wood with a test stain first though.

"Oil and grease stains: For waxed finish-Rub on a kitchen soap having
a high lye content, TSP (tri sodium phosphate) or saturate cotton with
hydrogen peroxide and place over stain; then saturate a second layer
of cotton with ammonia and place over the first. Repeat until the
stain is removed. NOTE: Ammonia may discolor the wood. For surface
finishes-Wipe up with mineral spirits or TSP (tri sodium phosphate).
Buff with clean pad or towel."
"Wood Floor Care Guide: Removing Stains":

Methanol, will remove oil if enough is used to soak the stock.

I've used the brown paper and heat to absorb candle wax out of a table top before. Never tried it on a gun stock but the principle ought to be the same. The damp rag is used to raise dents. If it's turned really dark and blackish, chances are it won't remove the darkening. If you can get most of the oil out you can bleach the area with AB bleach and stain it back to match the color if you're lucky.

The dishwasher technique, while effective, will whiten all of the clean wood. DO NOT sand those oil stained edges. That will only ruin the fit of the stocks and screw up you job. Lightly stain everything to belnd in the darker wood. The older walnut stocks can take any common stain and whats available at your local hardware store can vary. Just apply the stain in stages, wiping off the excess and seeing what your get. Apply more if necessary and you will eventually blend in those dark spots. There may also be some light bruises left over from rasied dings. Staining will blend them in too. After staining, some finishes will slightly darken the wood a little more.

Try soaking and rubbing the affected areas with automotive brake cleaner and clean white rags.

Whatever you do, DON'T try to sand the wood until it lightens. It's not possible - the stains will go deeper into the pores of the walnut than you'd want to sand. While sanding it might LOOK lighter but that's just the sawdust you make and as soon as you go to apply a finish your stains will still be there but you'll have a badly wallowed out stock that will never look good again.

I'd try a leaching/bleaching product as rcmodel described in post #2, then let the wood stand for several days to dry out. You want it as dry as possible before beginning to put any color or finish to it.

Once really dry I'd set to trying to blend the color overall using spirit or alcohol based stains. If you use oil based stains they'll permeate the wood and you won't be able to make much adjustment from that point on.

Try a light color and rub the wood with a soft cloth to try to get an idea what it'll look like.

If it's too light to blend the oil stains and look natural then move to a darker stain.

Best to stay with brown colors - not the heavily red 'military' stains that are everywhere. Brownells has a 4 bottle kit of spirit stains in different shades that will have something that's close to right but it's important to do test patches ON THE ACTUAL WOOD you're working with. Walnut is weird in the variety of ways it takes color and it's like no two pieces will look the same when colored with the same stain. I guess just saying "Walnut" isn't good enough to describe the wood.

Anyway the blending plan as described by ralfus is the way to go and keep in mind that it's a classic old rifle. It would not be appropriate to try to make it look like a new Browning made in Japan.

Most of the model 99's came with a light varnish or shellac that's not easy to duplicate with new products. A slow hand rubbed finish using boiled linseed oil finish could look good (not much is finer, IMO) but it's got to be done right and that means a lot of work - a lot of rubbing with bare palms and enough pressure to make it seem like there's no way you're not raising blisters. The heat from rubbing sets the oil and gets it to dry so it won't bleed out on every hot day. A lot of people just wipe on some oil and call it a finish but all they've really got is some oily wood.

How did it come out?????

Guys: Brownell's sells a product designed to remove soaked in oil from gunstocks. It is called "Old Fashioned Whiting" and is their p/n 083-032-100AB. Read Brownell's description for this product and it appears to be exactly what you need to remove soaked in oil. I have to be honest and state that I have not used this product.

To remove oil from a stock they used to recomend spray on oven cleaner. It works on those old 303's that had so much oil soaked into the stock around the bolt area. Could also bury the stock in kitty litter and see hom much it soaks out the oil also.