WMK1911
Member
Welcome sandpiper as already stated lots of everything good here. Enjoy your new 642
642 Club Part Deux
- Thread starter fiVe
- Start date
- Status
AStone
Member
Dual Post...
.org...
content, skipbadger, sandpiper - Welcome to the 642 Club, we are pleased to have each of you here and look forward to hearing more from you.
.us...
DCSCO - Welcome to the 642 Club.
jerico34 - I have not run across that particular ammo either, but it should be fine for range/practice ammo. Locate some 158 gr. LSWCHP/Gold Dot short barrel or similar for carry and you will be set.
content - Dude, slow down...a little color is a good thing but I don't think you will realize any advantage with banding such a short sight radius. While it can be quite accurate with practice, these little guys are primarily up close and personal point and shoot for most of us. CT's are great, but don't become dependent on them.
5-SHOTS - I carry the 442/642 about equally, often I carry both. The 642 finish is surprisingly durable and wears very well. For normal holster wear the 442 shows more as the high spots wear through the black and are more noticeable that the wear on the 642 which is just a bit of shiny on the clearcoat. If you get any damage on the 642 clearcoat on the frame it is quite noticeable, but the 442 frame shows wear as well...I will post some pic's in a bit.
skipbadger - The Mika is worth the wait, the best pocket holster you will find anywhere.
DCSCO - Yea, and this is part two...not to mention part 2.1/For a pocket holster you cannot go wrong with Mika. As for a post index, just log in and use the "search this thread" option at the top of the page...not to be confused with the regular "search" function. enjoy.
DA - The link is in Post #1, Part Deux...
....and speaking of kiNg fiVe...???
.org...
content, skipbadger, sandpiper - Welcome to the 642 Club, we are pleased to have each of you here and look forward to hearing more from you.
.us...
DCSCO - Welcome to the 642 Club.
jerico34 - I have not run across that particular ammo either, but it should be fine for range/practice ammo. Locate some 158 gr. LSWCHP/Gold Dot short barrel or similar for carry and you will be set.
content - Dude, slow down...a little color is a good thing but I don't think you will realize any advantage with banding such a short sight radius. While it can be quite accurate with practice, these little guys are primarily up close and personal point and shoot for most of us. CT's are great, but don't become dependent on them.
5-SHOTS - I carry the 442/642 about equally, often I carry both. The 642 finish is surprisingly durable and wears very well. For normal holster wear the 442 shows more as the high spots wear through the black and are more noticeable that the wear on the 642 which is just a bit of shiny on the clearcoat. If you get any damage on the 642 clearcoat on the frame it is quite noticeable, but the 442 frame shows wear as well...I will post some pic's in a bit.
skipbadger - The Mika is worth the wait, the best pocket holster you will find anywhere.
DCSCO - Yea, and this is part two...not to mention part 2.1/For a pocket holster you cannot go wrong with Mika. As for a post index, just log in and use the "search this thread" option at the top of the page...not to be confused with the regular "search" function. enjoy.
DA - The link is in Post #1, Part Deux...
....and speaking of kiNg fiVe...???
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DAdams
Member
Carry Accessories
Robert Mika's website. He indicates he will have his turnaround time down to 2-3 weeks in 2010. Holster elves.
http://www.frontiernet.net/~akim/
Here is a roundcut.
Another recommended item for reload carry is the Bianchi Speedstrip
http://www.frontiernet.net/~akim/
Some individuals snip off the tab and carry in the 2/2 (jt1 split) mode the theory being load two, load two and back in action.
Midway has Bianchi for 7.49, pack of two.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=243389
There are also TuffQuick Strips. I have no personal experience with these.
Carry Flashlights:
Many of my favorites come from:
http://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=297
My pocket EDC is a single AA. I like the new quark lineup.
I ordered a Preon Kit. 2XAA @ 160 lumens carrys like a pen or pocket and can be converted to a single AA. Billed as "absurdly bright, and worlds first AAA CREE XP-G flashlight".
More a "dress" carry light than the tacticool one may normally carry. There is even a Ti version to go with the Ti J Frame person who has almost everything.
Treats, no Tricks
Robert Mika's website. He indicates he will have his turnaround time down to 2-3 weeks in 2010. Holster elves.
http://www.frontiernet.net/~akim/
Here is a roundcut.
Another recommended item for reload carry is the Bianchi Speedstrip
http://www.frontiernet.net/~akim/
Some individuals snip off the tab and carry in the 2/2 (jt1 split) mode the theory being load two, load two and back in action.
Midway has Bianchi for 7.49, pack of two.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=243389
There are also TuffQuick Strips. I have no personal experience with these.
Carry Flashlights:
Many of my favorites come from:
http://www.4sevens.com/index.php?cPath=297
My pocket EDC is a single AA. I like the new quark lineup.
I ordered a Preon Kit. 2XAA @ 160 lumens carrys like a pen or pocket and can be converted to a single AA. Billed as "absurdly bright, and worlds first AAA CREE XP-G flashlight".
More a "dress" carry light than the tacticool one may normally carry. There is even a Ti version to go with the Ti J Frame person who has almost everything.
Treats, no Tricks
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content
Member
Thanks jt1
Hello friends and neighbors // Thanks jt1
I have seen where other X42 posters are practicing 1'-10' , not 15' to 50'
Guess I should want my 586 6" for 15'-50' and the 442 1 7/8" for up close 333 usage.
;- ) content
Hello friends and neighbors // Thanks jt1
I have seen where other X42 posters are practicing 1'-10' , not 15' to 50'
Guess I should want my 586 6" for 15'-50' and the 442 1 7/8" for up close 333 usage.
;- ) content
Mongo the Mutterer
Member
21 feet / 7 yrds is my standard. Research the "Tueller Drill".
15 yards is ok, but realistically that is not what a snubby is for. 25 yards IMHO is showing off, if you can hit the paper.
15 yards is ok, but realistically that is not what a snubby is for. 25 yards IMHO is showing off, if you can hit the paper.
DAdams
Member
Seldom
do I go over 10 yards and typically as mongo has indicated I too stick with the seven yard scenario.
Yet it can be fun to see what your "effective" skill range is with such a short barrel revolver.
IIRC the range component test portion of the permitting process in the State of TN was 10 yards maximum and as little as 1 yard.
do I go over 10 yards and typically as mongo has indicated I too stick with the seven yard scenario.
Yet it can be fun to see what your "effective" skill range is with such a short barrel revolver.
IIRC the range component test portion of the permitting process in the State of TN was 10 yards maximum and as little as 1 yard.
AStone
Member
Why, I remember the time I clipped the wings off of
a flying grasshoppa' at 27 yds (stepped off) with my 642.
Poor little bugger had to hop the rest of the way home.
Little high tech light like that just seems to go with an x42 like jam goes with peanut butter.
Wow, flashlights have come a long way since my first Rayovac (which had no microprocessor in it IIRC).
Far, far behind reading here. Will catch up ... someday ...
a flying grasshoppa' at 27 yds (stepped off) with my 642.
Poor little bugger had to hop the rest of the way home.
Well, those are sweet, alright.DA said:
Little high tech light like that just seems to go with an x42 like jam goes with peanut butter.
Wow, flashlights have come a long way since my first Rayovac (which had no microprocessor in it IIRC).
Far, far behind reading here. Will catch up ... someday ...
WMK1911
Member
Made my semi-weekly trip to the range this morning. So fortunate to only have to drive a quarter mile. Was able to keep 3 /4 shots within four inches at 7 yards (my usual range at target) BUT what happens to that 4th/5th shot that ends in the 2:00 o'clock area 5" away I don't understand. I guess it means more practice. Any help appreciated.
308win
Member
If you aren't regripping, the gun is probably shifting enough to throw your last shot(s) high right if you are right handed.
DA - how do you like that Gerber? Can you open/close with one hand? Ambidextrous?
Nem - Was this during the Amazon trip/Waterfall incident...
WMK1911 - As 308 says it could be grip. As you know the x42's require a very firm grip or they tend to wander about. Is this during point or aimed fire, or both? If it is very consistent you might try having another shooter watch you and see if they can pick up any movement or quirks. Even with this issue your groups seem OK and like I always say...a little spread can be a good thing...on paper tight groups are fine, for business you don't want 'em all in the same hole. Consult the chart...
[/IMG]
Nem - Was this during the Amazon trip/Waterfall incident...
WMK1911 - As 308 says it could be grip. As you know the x42's require a very firm grip or they tend to wander about. Is this during point or aimed fire, or both? If it is very consistent you might try having another shooter watch you and see if they can pick up any movement or quirks. Even with this issue your groups seem OK and like I always say...a little spread can be a good thing...on paper tight groups are fine, for business you don't want 'em all in the same hole. Consult the chart...
WMK1911
Member
308Win and jt1 Thanx for the tips and chart. I have a good grip I think (having worked with hammer/power tools most of my life). My nephew will be with me today as you suggested. :banghead:
308win
Member
The position of your trigger finger as much as anything else will affect your shot placement. Experiment with your finger placement and when you get your best results make sure it isn't shifting.
wjh2657
Member
My drill with all J-Frames:
21 ft-5 rounds, slow fire. Two handed.
15 ft- 10 rounds, rapid fire with reload. Two handed.
10 ft- 5rdX2 (10), very fast, One handed.
I fire this drill with each carry gun, weekly.
Same drill in garage daily, S&W317 w/1 7/8" bbl.(.22CBs) into bullet trap in gargage.
Results: 10 and 15 feet I am deadly, 21 feet I am effective but not nearly as accurate (Belly shots and shoulder/arm shots.)
Conclusion: for me approx 15 feet is my best envelope for an effective stop. At 21 feet I am not nearly as sure of a quick stop.
I don't think it is gun as much as sight acquistion at the farther distance. I tried with laser grips, but they slowed down my rate of fire considerably. As my training is for short range attack suppression, I need the rapid fire.
Out to 15 ft I can keep all shots in a 4" circle on a Shoot-and-See target. With the 637 I can use SA fire and I can keep in 6" circle out to 45 Ft but at a very slow rate of fire.
Next range session I am going to try my 640 and 60, both are .357 frame (but I will use same ,38 Spl ammo) and have the 2" barrel along with the longer frame, giving a little longer sight radius. The extra weight will also probably give me a quicker recovery time. Both are heavy though and most assuredly will not replace 642 in my pocket!
21 ft-5 rounds, slow fire. Two handed.
15 ft- 10 rounds, rapid fire with reload. Two handed.
10 ft- 5rdX2 (10), very fast, One handed.
I fire this drill with each carry gun, weekly.
Same drill in garage daily, S&W317 w/1 7/8" bbl.(.22CBs) into bullet trap in gargage.
Results: 10 and 15 feet I am deadly, 21 feet I am effective but not nearly as accurate (Belly shots and shoulder/arm shots.)
Conclusion: for me approx 15 feet is my best envelope for an effective stop. At 21 feet I am not nearly as sure of a quick stop.
I don't think it is gun as much as sight acquistion at the farther distance. I tried with laser grips, but they slowed down my rate of fire considerably. As my training is for short range attack suppression, I need the rapid fire.
Out to 15 ft I can keep all shots in a 4" circle on a Shoot-and-See target. With the 637 I can use SA fire and I can keep in 6" circle out to 45 Ft but at a very slow rate of fire.
Next range session I am going to try my 640 and 60, both are .357 frame (but I will use same ,38 Spl ammo) and have the 2" barrel along with the longer frame, giving a little longer sight radius. The extra weight will also probably give me a quicker recovery time. Both are heavy though and most assuredly will not replace 642 in my pocket!
wjh2657
Member
For those outside Tennessee: Tennessee HCP firing test is set up for down and dirty, fast fire at close range testing. Most people they are testing will be using the gun in this scenario. Those who can shoot at long range and would choose to do so, already are practicing regularly and don't need testing!
Realistic CQC distance? Contact to ten feet or so, the distance increases in direct proportion to your level of situational awareness...Haven't tried close in? You may be surprised... this is what the x42's are all about. Remember, at close quarters the gun is protected, not extended, and most often the off hand is unavailable, going for the knife, reload, backup, protecting family members or in direct contact/distracting the BG/'s...
jfh
Member.
a few comments on this and that...
1. "Accuracy" Issues: I see new 642 / lightweight j-frame shooters checking in and talking about (what seems to me to be) target accuracy at distances of 15 yards or more. As others are suggesting in some immediately-preceding posts, that really isn't what the 2" j-frames (lightweight or steel) are all about.
Remember that current SD law makes it hard to accept shooting at distances beyond perhaps 15 yards--and arguably, even 7 yards--in worst case situations. So, work on proficiency at the closer-in distances first.
2. A good beginner's SD / j-frame drill: That's Old Fuff's "Quad 5".
Use a blank piece of typing paper.
The drill consists of
1. 5 yards
2. 5 shots
3. 5" group
4. 5 seconds or less.
There's several reasons this drill is good, IMO. First, its parameters help the shooter to start "thinking" about shooting as personal defense, and not as, for example, target-shooting, hunting long-range accuracy, or strategic shooting. SD shooting is a different mindset, IOW, and it has its own skillset.
The trick to using the Old Fuff Quad Five drill is to work on it using an educational concept called "successive approximations". Figure you may meet only the goals of a) shooting at 5 yards, and b) shooting only 5 shots (it's a j-frame, after all). Aimed, two-handed, one-handed, whatever--accept a slower time to get the 5" group. Or, accept getting them all off in 5 seconds, with maybe a shot even off the paper. So, repeat the drill, changing nothing. As you gain those familiarization skills, your group will shrink--and as the group shrinks, you will probably subconsciously speed up.
Working with this drill will help you build your SD skillset and mindset. That's a "positive" task--to learn a new skillset--rather than "unlearning" your bullseye-shooting subconscious paradigm of "front sight-breathe-target/front sight-squeeze"--or whatever other mindset you have. The bullseye mindset could get you killed in a fast-breaking close-in situation.
Remember to change only one parameter at a time; that's critical to developing the entire 'gestalt.'
3. Shooting Hand conditioning: This one is, I suspect, the most unrecognized issue for most of us. We talk about "recoil," "the little mule," or whatever, or accuracy with a short barrel, or trigger-finger usage. For the chart noted above, those variables will work only once the shooter has figured out how to use each appropriate muscle--for example, squeezing the trigger with the finger muscles only, and not subconsciously squeezing the grip with the palm muscles. Get a hand exerciser and use it; squeeze tennis balls, whatever--and shoot a lot. (Personally, for me this was a primary factor in building my SD skillset; I had gotten woefully out-of-shape when I started shooting my 640 and my M&P340.
That's enough for now--except to say that I suspect wjh2657's drill outlined in this post, for more-advanced SD j-frame skills is a good one.
And, remember jt1's advice:
I'll probably edit this post later, and do some style changes, but for now--LEARN TO SHOOT YOUR LIGHTWEIGHT J-FRAME WELL.
Jim H.
1. "Accuracy" Issues: I see new 642 / lightweight j-frame shooters checking in and talking about (what seems to me to be) target accuracy at distances of 15 yards or more. As others are suggesting in some immediately-preceding posts, that really isn't what the 2" j-frames (lightweight or steel) are all about.
Remember that current SD law makes it hard to accept shooting at distances beyond perhaps 15 yards--and arguably, even 7 yards--in worst case situations. So, work on proficiency at the closer-in distances first.
2. A good beginner's SD / j-frame drill: That's Old Fuff's "Quad 5".
Use a blank piece of typing paper.
The drill consists of
1. 5 yards
2. 5 shots
3. 5" group
4. 5 seconds or less.
There's several reasons this drill is good, IMO. First, its parameters help the shooter to start "thinking" about shooting as personal defense, and not as, for example, target-shooting, hunting long-range accuracy, or strategic shooting. SD shooting is a different mindset, IOW, and it has its own skillset.
The trick to using the Old Fuff Quad Five drill is to work on it using an educational concept called "successive approximations". Figure you may meet only the goals of a) shooting at 5 yards, and b) shooting only 5 shots (it's a j-frame, after all). Aimed, two-handed, one-handed, whatever--accept a slower time to get the 5" group. Or, accept getting them all off in 5 seconds, with maybe a shot even off the paper. So, repeat the drill, changing nothing. As you gain those familiarization skills, your group will shrink--and as the group shrinks, you will probably subconsciously speed up.
Working with this drill will help you build your SD skillset and mindset. That's a "positive" task--to learn a new skillset--rather than "unlearning" your bullseye-shooting subconscious paradigm of "front sight-breathe-target/front sight-squeeze"--or whatever other mindset you have. The bullseye mindset could get you killed in a fast-breaking close-in situation.
Remember to change only one parameter at a time; that's critical to developing the entire 'gestalt.'
3. Shooting Hand conditioning: This one is, I suspect, the most unrecognized issue for most of us. We talk about "recoil," "the little mule," or whatever, or accuracy with a short barrel, or trigger-finger usage. For the chart noted above, those variables will work only once the shooter has figured out how to use each appropriate muscle--for example, squeezing the trigger with the finger muscles only, and not subconsciously squeezing the grip with the palm muscles. Get a hand exerciser and use it; squeeze tennis balls, whatever--and shoot a lot. (Personally, for me this was a primary factor in building my SD skillset; I had gotten woefully out-of-shape when I started shooting my 640 and my M&P340.
That's enough for now--except to say that I suspect wjh2657's drill outlined in this post, for more-advanced SD j-frame skills is a good one.
And, remember jt1's advice:
...this is what the x42's are all about. Remember, at close quarters the gun is protected, not extended, and most often the off hand is unavailable, going for the knife, reload, backup, protecting family members or in direct contact/distracting the BG/'s...
I'll probably edit this post later, and do some style changes, but for now--LEARN TO SHOOT YOUR LIGHTWEIGHT J-FRAME WELL.
Jim H.
AStone
Member
No, JT, that was during that Gobi desert trek when I walked 300 mi across open desert with nothing but a canteen,
a lb of yak jerky, a knife and my trusty 642. I'm sure I've told you about that.
Good info on here in the last few days. I've got some catching up to do this weekend ...
Trying to keep up here! Write faster!! So much info...
recommended ammo.... check
recommended holster... check
recommended speed sticks... check
recommended shooting drill... check
All great info guys!! Thanks!
Oh, and practice, practice, practice.
So much info...recommended ammo.... check
recommended holster... check
recommended speed sticks... check
recommended shooting drill... check
All great info guys!! Thanks!
Oh, and practice, practice, practice.
DAdams
Member
Response Reflex
wjh comments
A couple things I liked about the TN course. A good legal discussion (video) about the responsibilies of carry (open is legal in TN) and the self defense response aspects, do's/don't. Surprisingly most of the approximately 50 rounds for the range test was close in and fast fire (part of the theory that PD will be up close and take place and be over in seconds) and won't be "long range" shooting. I do disagree with TN allowing .22s being able to be used for qualification though.
Our instructor was informed, qualified and would have failed anyone out that couldn't have passed the range course.
jt1 asks
I got lucky when I purchased this (while Xmas shopping at Wal Mart) a few years ago when I believe they first came out. It has been my EDC now for awhile (years) and I like it well enough that I have not felt compelled to replace it with something else in the same class. I paid $40 then and now they can be found for as little as $30, a bargain in my book. I haven't used it to pry with, but it does hold an edge and I have been pretty rough on it.
It is ambi although you can't relocate the clip which is screwed on and it certainly could have been designed such.
The Gerber Fast Draw utilizes F.A.S.T., Forward Action Spring Technology. A new (perhaps 3 years old now) blade opening technology developed and patented by knife designer Butch Valloton. On the Fast Draw, this technology allows one-handed opening with either the thumb stud or with the finger flip and one handed closing as well. Textured hande allows for superior grip as well. Pocket clip allows fast and easy access. This knife opens very quickly. We did a test versus an automatic knife (not a Gerber) and the Fast Draw beat it by a long shot.
Features
Length:4.3
Width:1.8
Height:0.8
Along with one of my other occassional carrys.
Aren't you glad you asked?
wjh comments
A couple things I liked about the TN course. A good legal discussion (video) about the responsibilies of carry (open is legal in TN) and the self defense response aspects, do's/don't. Surprisingly most of the approximately 50 rounds for the range test was close in and fast fire (part of the theory that PD will be up close and take place and be over in seconds) and won't be "long range" shooting. I do disagree with TN allowing .22s being able to be used for qualification though.
let's put it this way, they are likely to pass but still need testing.
Our instructor was informed, qualified and would have failed anyone out that couldn't have passed the range course.
jt1 asks
I got lucky when I purchased this (while Xmas shopping at Wal Mart) a few years ago when I believe they first came out. It has been my EDC now for awhile (years) and I like it well enough that I have not felt compelled to replace it with something else in the same class. I paid $40 then and now they can be found for as little as $30, a bargain in my book. I haven't used it to pry with, but it does hold an edge and I have been pretty rough on it.
It is ambi although you can't relocate the clip which is screwed on and it certainly could have been designed such.
The Gerber Fast Draw utilizes F.A.S.T., Forward Action Spring Technology. A new (perhaps 3 years old now) blade opening technology developed and patented by knife designer Butch Valloton. On the Fast Draw, this technology allows one-handed opening with either the thumb stud or with the finger flip and one handed closing as well. Textured hande allows for superior grip as well. Pocket clip allows fast and easy access. This knife opens very quickly. We did a test versus an automatic knife (not a Gerber) and the Fast Draw beat it by a long shot.
Features
Length:4.3
Width:1.8
Height:0.8
Along with one of my other occassional carrys.
Aren't you glad you asked?
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DAdams
Member
Do Tell
Grrr... Snort...stomp...huff.
Grrr... Snort...stomp...huff.
DAdams
Member
Edc led
I have become about as interested in carry flashlights as carry handguns.
If you are a "flashaholic" or would like to become one the "THR" of the flashlight world is the Candlepower Forum.
A "defensive" light can help you find your way or temporarily "blind" an adversary.
Some have crenelated heads and tailpieces that can act as a handheld weapon.
If you are in the market here is a place where one member has reviewed many of todays finest offerings.
http://www.sliderule.ca/flashlight.htm
My EDC LED light is the Fenix LT1 V2.0 a single AA cell light that puts out about 70 lumens. I am about to upgrade it though to a quark in a single CR123A format that has over twice the output. 3.2 inches long and 1.4 ounces. 170 Lumens.
https://www.4sevens.com/quark/
Just as we have perhaps a different handgun for bedside use (something more potent perhaps) the same can be true for LED lights. I have a Fenix T1 for that purpose. At 225 Lumens (2XCR123A) it is like a spotlight. Good for walking the dog, in the car or camping when a larger (brighter) light is in order.
Note the tailcap. Crenelated for possible defensive purposes, and can be set on end for upward illumination of a room. Pulse/on/off switch.
In case you might be wondering what the "big gun" is in LED lights in a realistic size format is these days, ie Maglite 2D, here it is the TK40 8AA 4/4 in parallel, meaning it can run on four. 630 Lumens MSRP $159 and billed as the "worlds most powerful" AA flashlight.
If you use a lot of batteries (I burn a bunch of AA and AAA) you might be interested in this, I just ordered one and the batteries get high marks from the CPF crowd, we shall see.
Amazon Link:
http://www.amazon.com/Eneloop-PowerPack-183245-Original-CostCo/dp/B000WPJIME/ref=cm_cmu_pg_t
I have become about as interested in carry flashlights as carry handguns.
If you are a "flashaholic" or would like to become one the "THR" of the flashlight world is the Candlepower Forum.
A "defensive" light can help you find your way or temporarily "blind" an adversary.
Some have crenelated heads and tailpieces that can act as a handheld weapon.
If you are in the market here is a place where one member has reviewed many of todays finest offerings.
http://www.sliderule.ca/flashlight.htm
My EDC LED light is the Fenix LT1 V2.0 a single AA cell light that puts out about 70 lumens. I am about to upgrade it though to a quark in a single CR123A format that has over twice the output. 3.2 inches long and 1.4 ounces. 170 Lumens.
https://www.4sevens.com/quark/
Just as we have perhaps a different handgun for bedside use (something more potent perhaps) the same can be true for LED lights. I have a Fenix T1 for that purpose. At 225 Lumens (2XCR123A) it is like a spotlight. Good for walking the dog, in the car or camping when a larger (brighter) light is in order.
Note the tailcap. Crenelated for possible defensive purposes, and can be set on end for upward illumination of a room. Pulse/on/off switch.
In case you might be wondering what the "big gun" is in LED lights in a realistic size format is these days, ie Maglite 2D, here it is the TK40 8AA 4/4 in parallel, meaning it can run on four. 630 Lumens
MSRP $159 and billed as the "worlds most powerful" AA flashlight.
If you use a lot of batteries (I burn a bunch of AA and AAA) you might be interested in this, I just ordered one and the batteries get high marks from the CPF crowd, we shall see.
Amazon Link:
http://www.amazon.com/Eneloop-PowerPack-183245-Original-CostCo/dp/B000WPJIME/ref=cm_cmu_pg_t
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Just wanted to thank everyone on here for all the great and helpful info. I recently picked up *my first 642* of hopefully many. I have put a few rounds down range and absolutely love this snubbie. I still have yet to acquire my CCW, but plan to soon. I have purchased a pocket holster but when i tried it out at home (with a strut around my living room) i realized just how small the pockets are on my jeans. So still undecided on my mode of carry. Thank again for all the great info and thank keep up all the great input!!!!!!
also, if i may add one more thing. I have read alot about wiping down your gun each night after carry to remove any residual salts or minerals it may have collected during the days journey. Esp. with the aluminum frame. can anyone tell me what they use to wipe down their gun with. Is it a dry cloth, gun oil and patches.... etc? thanks!!!
308win
Member
I occasionally wipe the exterior surface down with gun cleaner. I don't use any oil on the exterior so lint doesn't adhere. I remove the grip panels, side plate, and cylinder/yoke and blow out the accumulated lint etc. with using keyboard cleaner and clean the interior with gun cleaner followed by lubing the firing mechanism with Dave Barryhills gun grease and wiping the rest with ClenzOil.
I don't pocket carry much anymore. If you do you need to clean away the lint and pocket detritus frequently.
I don't pocket carry much anymore. If you do you need to clean away the lint and pocket detritus frequently.
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