Stuck case; recommendations?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I use the RCBS stuck case remover as well. I think it is about 14$.

You can make your own kit. It's a drill bit, a bit to cut the internal threads, a screw, and a Allen wrench. Although, the RCBS kit is cheap for the money, and it comes with an RCBS plastic box.

After doing it a few times, I stopped forgetting to use lube.

Although, not recommended, sometimes I cut the bottom of the case off with a dremel, then yank with a pair of channel locks.

With the Lee dies, you can dismantle the die and take the brass off with a pair of Robo Grips.
 
Last edited:
I've got instructions for a home-made stuck-case remover. Costs a few bucks to pull the parts together, and it works. Believe me, it works.

I'll look to see if I can find 'em, but the short version is that you drill a hole through the head of the case, use a tap to create threads in the hole, thread a bolt in the hole through a washer plus a small socket wrench socket, and turn until it pulls the case out.

The socket wrench socket presses against the die; the washer prevents the bolt from sliding through the socket.

The reason I point this out is that you can get one, tonite, at any home center.
 
I'll look to see if I can find 'em, but the short version is that you drill a hole through the head of the case
There may be problem with that - decapping rod. It may be screwed up slightly, but it may not be pulled out through the top of the die, unlike in Lee sizer.

I would try to screw the decapping rod down. It may push out the stuck case.
 
you can drill a 3/16" hole in the bottom of the case (with the decapping assembly all the way up or out) and use an easy out also called a broken screw extractor with a cresent wrench. has worked perfectly for me when i too used one shot lube. just be sure the decapping assembly is all the way up or you will need a new one.
 
Spray On Case Lube

I learned early on about not enough lube - barely missed completely sticking rifle cases a few times, had to disassemble/fiddle/fight/cuss and yank, but finally got them loose. Now I use the Midway or Dillon (depending on who I ordered from last) spray on case lube. It is an alcohol (isopropyl I believe) solution with lanolin in it; the alcohol evaporates leaving the lanolin and presto - lubed. I find that a little goes a long way, and just a few sprays will coat a hundred or more small rifle cases (5.56). I sized a bunch last night with zero problems and just about zero resistance using an RCBS Rockchucker. I still have a pad with (I think) Hornady case lube on it now for a few odd cases here and there. I have had it since the late 60's and have used probably several ounces of the sticky fluid from RCBS, Lee, and now Hornady. I like the spray on because after sizing, I put them on an old towel (thin, not thick like bath towel) or the like, spray them with Brakleen or the like and roll them around on it with my palm until they are pretty much de-goo'ed. I used to just tumble them, but got tired of some of the cases winding up with black gunk glued to the brass, and this seems to eliminate the problem. It's aggravating - too little, they stick; too much, they dimple the shoulders. It's a fine line but dimpling is pretty much cosmetic and sticking is, well it's :cuss:
 
Couldn't find the instructions, but I took a few pics and I think it's clear.

What you need to buy:

1/2" socket (1/4" drive)
1/4" x 1" machine bolt
1/4" tap
13/64" drill bit (came with tap)
1/4" x 1 1/2" Washer (or thereabouts)

stcase1.jpg


Step one is to back out the decapping mandrel so you don't drill it. You don't have to remove it--just withdraw it enough that you can drill the hole through the case head.

Place the die in a vise or something to hold it steady. Then drill out the primer pocket w/ the 13/64" drill, and tap the hole:

stcase3.jpg


Push the bolt through the washer and socket, like so, and thread it into the newly tapped hole:

stcase4.jpg


Use a wrench to tighten the bolt, and it will draw the case out of the die, like so:

stcase5.jpg


I had to cut off the end of the shell so as to be able to remove the expander ball, but you could also cut off the head of the shell.

It works--I've pulled several stuck cases with it. :)
 
Forster sells a stuck case remover kit that includes a device to pull the expander and decapping stem out through the die's neck. You have to remove them on sizing dies that have raised expander balls (Forster and RCBS gold medal dies, maybe others), since you can't just raise them enough to clear a drill and tap. Then it has a rod that you pound on to push the case out the bottom of the die.

You could also get a Forster co-ax press; it's shell holder jaws are less likely to rip the case rim off, and are thus able to extract stubborn cases from dies more often.

Andy
 
You can pull the case out by drilling and tapping. You may find that you have scratched the die. If so send it back to RCBS and they will polish it free. If you do not want to pull the case out, they will remove it and polish it free of charge. Great service that RCBS provides as part of the warranty. I just got my .223 die back from being polished and they even sent a new lock nut for the die.
 
with all the people giving advise on stuck cases, it is obviously a common problem. Anyway this could be a sticky for quick reference in the future?
 
I did exactly what mongoose did except when i stuck a case it was five cases in on a sunday night and all the hardware stores were closed. After i ripped every side of the rim off attempting to get it to back out with the press...

I looked around, i don't have taps(never needed them) so i used a 1/2" socket, washer off one of the bolts used to hold my press to the bench, and a self tapping screw with a 5/16" head....backed it right out.

Midsouth has extractors for sale for like $6 or something like that....cheapest place i have ever found. Honestly though, everyone has sockets and a washer and whole box of self tapping screws wouldn't cost $6 and self tapping screws are quite handy around the house.
 
I do the same thing as Mongoose33 only I use a large nut instead of a socket. Works like a charm.

I also have to agree with USSR...I never, in 40 years of reloading, stuck a case till I tried One Shot.:fire:
 
Hey folks,

I would not recommend using a Vice Grips and a hammer for any stuck case. If the case is stuck, chances are you already cracked the extractor rim with the shell holder. At that point you have a stuck case, and if you value your die, you should use a stuck case removing tool. There are several good brands you can buy, and they work absolutely perfectly.

Or you can make your own as was beautifully shown by Mongoose. RCBS and the others could not do any better.

Using a Vice Grips and hammer, however, that's just bad.

Best wishes,
Dave Wile
 
I have been using water based wire pulling lube that I bought from lowes. I got a 1/2 liter bottle for $5. Its been awesome. I have done over 5000 casings and I still have about 1/2 the bottle left. It is messy though. However, I have not had one single stuck case.
 
Better buy a lottery ticket, Justin, the odds of that happening are one-in-a-million.

Don
Ditto on that. A stuck case with Imperial means a bad die or improper application. I can apply Imperial to one in three cases and size without issue. One Shot works, but requires more lube (regardless of how long it dries) and more effort. Every lube I've tried (at least 1/2 dozen) works better than OS. Almost all stuck case threads include the words, "I was using One Shot..."
 
mongoose33
Chuckle Chuckle were have I seen that before, do I need to check my tool box ?? Is that a Proto socket.
Best Wishes Happy Holidays
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top