Carbide or steel dies?

If used correctly, one lube is about as good as another.

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I disagree. I can pick put cases lubed with One Shot by the feel of the press; doesn't matter how much was used or how long it dried.

One Shot works, but many other lubes work better.

The spray lubes smell funny and seem to leave a residue all over. I don't care for them.

Don - I used your post to make my point, and I appreciate your being a good sport about it.

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Mike,

Be forewarned - Agreeing with me will sometimes get you in trouble with others.

I'll buy the next round.

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All is forgiven.

Don

I use carbide dies for pistol and use a lube pad and neck brush for rifle.

Just curious, but do any of you non-spray, pad fans reload on a progressive?

I'm a pistol-only reloader right now, but when I pick up an AR or something I'll probably pick up a LNL AP. Am I correct in assuming spray in a bag or some such is the general lube practice for progressive rifle reloaders?

Bag, spray, shake.

What about the imperial wax or whatever stuff -- does that have to be tumbled off?

I'm going to be wet tumbling my brass, should I would like to avoid having to get a corncob vibrator just for lube removal.

I believe Steel size die is good for .45 acp

The .45acp is supposed to have a slight taper to it, and one can give it that with a Steel die. I clean/lube/size/clean again well in advance of need, so it's not a problem. It gives me something to do during the winter.

I feel the same way about 9mm. Particularly with the 9mm, Carbide is known for leaving a 'belt' of unsized case at the bottom of the case, which happens much less often with Steel dies.

For .223 and .308, everything I've read is that you have to lubricate cases a little bit before running them through Carbide dies, so why bother except when sizing fantastic volumes. My .223 and .308 dies are highly specialized (RCBS X and Redding bushing dies), not available in Carbide, and they save me labor on trimming and give me better control of the finished case.

I only have experience with the .32 Mag, and not much there. Since it is a straight case, I don't see any benefit from Steel.

Just curious, but do any of you non-spray, pad fans reload on a progressive?

I'm a pistol-only reloader right now, but when I pick up an AR or something I'll probably pick up a LNL AP. Am I correct in assuming spray in a bag or some such is the general lube practice for progressive rifle reloaders?

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You can also use an RCBS lube die, which has a decapping pin integral to the die.

When combined with brass that has been worked w/ an RCBS X-Die, you have the potential for reloading .223 on a progressive in one fell swoop.

Here's a video showing a guy doing just that:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqPJJinDr8Q

I've been working w/ the X-Die to learn exactly how well it does (and the conclusion? Very well : ), and once I establish a stock of brass that has bee prepped by the X-Die, I'll be doing some loading on my LnL AP as is indicated in the video.

Clarification on my part-

I use the oneshot in only certain applications for 2 reasons.

1. Unless you spray WAY too heavy it doesn't make a mess out or you loading blocks like the Dillon pump/squirt lube will. Nor does it make a mess out of the case feeder on the Dillon 650. And it requires ZERO clean up unless you way overdo it. I consider it "THE BOMB" for straightwall pistol caliber loading with a carbide sizer die.

2. I use it ONLY on straightwall pistol calibers. As others have noted and I have experienced(more than once, and in more than one caliber before I gave up), you WILL stick a rifle case with it.

I've always use a tiny bit of Break Free and a pad for the rifle dies. It's easy and it isn't messy unless you soak the pad way too much. But try different ones as you progress and see what you like. And for hand guns? Yes, carbide is the only way to go. But I used to lube them a bit anyway. Habit I guess.

Lee carbide dies if $ permits!

Carbide pistol dies work great except for my S&W 500, you will stick a case without lube.

Have you tried more than one die? Could be defective.

No. I thought about that but, the case is properly sized, and I am used to lubing rifle calibers anyway. I just figured the large surface area and thick brass was more than the carbide could handle alone.

Could be. Interesting.

I just finished 100 500 S&W rounds and used Lee dies. All went OK and this is my third trip through without a stuck brass and no lube used. Might be a bad die you have. None of these were plated but had no problems with those either.

Well dang. I,ll try without lube again, maybe they have wore in a bit.

mallc said:

I lube everything with Dillon spray lube - carbide or not. Takes an extra 15 seconds or so.

Scott

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++1 On Dillon spray lube. Lay cases down on lube pad, pass over with mist spray, after a couple of min, roll the cases, brush lube inside necks, and size.

All my pistol dies are carbide, but I still lube just a bit with Imperial sizing wax. I rub some on my fingers then handle case seems to be all thats required.
The beast carbide die I own was the most expensive 30 carbine, a fully tapered case which always caused me problems til I bought carbide, its a breeze now with light lube.
Every stuck pistol case I've pulled in last 20 years has been in a cardide sized, you need some lube.

If I had a choice between carbine and steel dies, I'd always choose carbide regardless of cost differences. I mean, why not? Even with .30 carbine which needs *some* lube every several cases, it's better than gunking up every single case.

Even with .30 carbine which needs *some* lube every several cases, it's better than gunking up every single case.

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I can't even imagine resizing .30 Carbine without carbide dies.

Don