Ultimate reloading bench-Need some opinions

At least one inch solid wood top and the ability to anchor it to the floor.

loadedround said:

At least one inch solid wood top and the ability to anchor it to the floor.

Click to expand...

I made my bench out of 2 layers of 3/8" plywood plus 1 layer of 1/4" plywood, screwed and glued together. For solidity and immobility, I'd put it up against any solid wood top.

It's not anchored to the floor, but the rear and right-side supports are anchored to concrete walls. Here's a pic:



Obviously not cabinet-maker grade, but it gets the job done

well, i just remodeled my reloading bench (which is an old prefab shelving / cabinete "workbench" that i bought 20 years ago for the garage). i used 2 - 3/4" sheets of plywood (actually 1 sheet, cut in half), glued and screwed together for the bench table. much sturdier than the old top it used to have. how much space you need, is directionally proportionate to how much, and how many calibers a person reloads for. also, if the person casts his own bullets, that is even more space needed. the shape, i think is going to depend on the persons area to reload in. for me, a corner set up would be perfect. but it is not what i have. basicly, i pretty much had to build mine in place, because it would be to difficult to move it into our basement. a place for loaded ammo, or bullets way down low is a must. it gives the whole structure a way to be "anchored", without screwing it to the floor. mine has a sheet of plywood across the bottom that is screwed to the bottom of the "bench", it ties all of the base together, making it sturdier, and severs as a plce to store my loaded ammo. most of us would not require a fancy finish. something that looks nice, protects the wood, and is easy to clean is all that is necessary. i am sure that some people would want fancy, and that is fine, but most of us are concerned more with costs, than pretty. a good formica (or similar) surface to work on benchtop is pretty hard to beat in my opinion. easy to care for, clean up, and no seams for stuff to get caught in. a slight lip around the edge of the bench can be nice, to keep things from reaching the floor. lighting is important as well. if you could build in a flouresent light to the top (if you build tall) it is a really nice feature. storage is a big plus. we need a place to keep things, so the bench can be clear of clutter. shelves, or cubbies with or without doors are a really nice feature. reloading manuals, powder measures, dies, scales, etc. all need a home. if you are going to do this, i would make up 3 different benches, from small basic sturdy work bench, to a big really nice one, and one in between. then make sure everyone knows that you can custom build almost anything for them, as most of us would really like custom, if we can afford it.

I found a used office door - one of those 8 foot formica monsters. Paid $30 buck for it.

There are tons of these around, just look for folks that do demo work.

I've found that my 1 5/8" thick bench works very well. I used to work for a custom ammunition loading facility that used the craftsman 8' butcher block work benches and they worked very well. Whatever you choose, you will want to anchor it to the floor.

Here are the things I'd want in a new bench:

1. The top is thick. I've used a solid-core door in my favorite bench, and it's not too thick. Thicker yet would even be better.

2. Leg levelers. My father-in-law showed me a way to level legs on a bench that I've used since then. You use a 2x4 to support the top, then attach 2x4 legs to each side of it. Then at the bottom, a 2x4 connecting the front and back leg sets, with slots cut in it so it can be adjusted to level the table. A pic showing what isn't easy to put in words:



3. Some sort of shelving apparatus above the bench. This might be something you'd attach to a wall, as I have done, but I've found such shelves to be godsends--they get stuff up and out of the way, reducing clutter, but making that stuff readily findable and available:



That pic shows my golf clubmaking setup, which has actually been converted now to reloading. But that little shelf, dumb as it may sound, is just terrific.

4. I want enough room on either side of my presses for whatever. At least six inches, a foot is better.

5. Room under the press for my legs, shelves, whatever. The pic of the bench above shows a shelf under the bench, but because of how the legs are set up, it's far enough back to stay out of the way of my legs, but still provides storage. The shelf is a piece of plywood set on 2x4 crosspieces run the long-way and set just above the bench levelers. That gives me room for toes. (You can see this better in the first pic above)

6. A way to attach the bench to the wall studs if it's up against a wall. The way the bench in the photo above is attached to the wall with angle irons. The bench is heavy (that solid-core door plus all the 2x4s plus the shelf plus the stuff on the shelf make it very stable, but I wanted something to keep it from pulling away from the wall if ever I put that kind of pressure on it.

7. A lot of benches are made at the height of a normal desk. Mine are at least 37 1/2 inches high. It's a comfortable height for standing at them and working, and I have a tall stool I sit at while reloading. A shorter, more standard-height desk I'd not be interested in. Might be worth making one at a standard height for those who want to sit at it in a chair, and allow for 2x4s to be used (laid on the side) to raise it 3 1/2 inches for those who wanted that.

8. Finally, even though my work area doesn't allow for it, if I were putting the bench in a corner, I'd like an "L" shape to it. With the short leg of the "L" on the right, It would be nice to have more room on my right for a press, extra stuff, whatever. Just being able to turn 90 degrees and have another complete work surface would be nice. I can imagine a "bolt-on" option for the extra leg of the "L" for those who'd want it.

After loading a few thousand rounds it became apparent to me the most important thing is the bench height. I like to stand and reload so a high bench is good. My advice is to decide whether you want to sit or stand and if sitting pick the chair/stool first and make sure you build the bench to a comfortable height.

"If you could design the ultimate loading table what features would it have, how big would it be, what shape (corner unit or straight bench) and how much would you be willing to pay for it?"

A good bench is perhaps the most important thing we can get for our reloading but few seem to put much thought or craft into it. Ideas? Well, one thing at a time:

!. Not wider than 20-22" so things on the back can be easily reached.
2. As long as possible for the available space minus two feet to allow long items (broom, chronograph tripod, wind flag stands, cleaning rods, etc.) at both ends.
3. Height top not lower than standing belt buckle. And provision to elevate any press enough to allow full lever travel without bending over.
4. Top extend over the under cabinet about 4" for good knee room while working,ease of attaching presses, "C" clamping other stuff, etc.
5. Bottom of under cabinet to stop 8-10" above floor so "stuff" can be stored in boxes below AND, with cabinet door(s) open, to provide a "foot rail" when seated on a bar stool.
6. Paint the interior of the lower cabinets white for good visibility.
7. Paint the exterior wood surfaces with a gloss finish that can be easily cleaned.
8. Make the under cabinet(s) like kitchen cabinets, that is in modular sections that can be exchanged and repostioned to accomidate the users needs.
9. Provide different lenghts of top to accomidate difference configerations of cabinets.

I wouldn't pay much, if anything, because I do my own such things, custom made needs and space. No idea what anyone else would pay.

If I could build the ultimate reloading bench it would be a regular counter top over regular kitchen cabinets. This would give me a great surface to reload on as well as plenty of storage room.

Build the Rock,

I built one of these, http://www.shotgunsportsmagazine.com/downloads/bench_plans.pdf, and am very happy with it. I do not have it attached to the wall and does not move around. I have not added the doors yet, but will we I buy the door tracks.here is a picture of the bench. here is a picture.

I built a 2'x4' with a shelf underneth. I use the lower shelf to store my lead bullets. Having that much weight on the lower shelf it keeps it from moving on me, so bolting it down is not necessary. In fact, in order to move it I have to take eveything off the lower shelf. Some shelves above the top at the back provides storage space for dies and other odds and ends. If I could change anything I would have made it longer, but space won't allow that. I also mounted a florscent light 3 feet above it for a good light source. The top and shelf is made from a 3/4" piece of plywood that has been sanded smooth on the top.

While the "thing" supporting the reloading press has to be VERY stable, mostly what's spread out on the rest of the bench is manuals, notebooks, pens, lube pads, dies, calipers... in short very light-weight objects. IMHO spending the money to build a super strong bench to support items that weigh all together less than 4 lbs is somewhat silly.

Check out the press support on UltimateReloader.Com and see how he does it. It could be much less expensive and much more stable.

I agree on not making the bench too deep. My old bench was 24 inches deep and that gave me storage for small parts and bullets and still be reachable. My new bench was built using heavy steel square tube frames that I had that were 30 inch square units and spaced out to give me 12 feet of bench. Then 2x6 wood frame on the steel, two layers of 3/4 inch MDF. A little too deep, but I will live with it.




And never big enough!:banghead:

Things I like in a bench:
1) A Peg Board tool rack attached to the back of the bench and extending up to a heavy duty shelf. I want the shelf to have at least 16" clearance from the ceiling and be wide enough to mount a switch controlled fluorescent light beneath the shelf. No loading bench can have too much light.

2) I want the bench no wider than 28" and I agree with the belt buckle height so the legs should be adjustable to accommodate different height persons.

3) Work stations with removable tool holders so you can install various presses, lubersizers, swaging tools etc at the same work station.

4) A small bench vise located on one end or the other. I like a 4" wood workers vise mounted even with the bench top.

5) I like an L-shaped work area with two separate benches. One bench for loading and one bench for case preparation. The case prep bench should have a small lip around the top for klutzes like me who drop brass.

6) It is almost impossible to get too long a bench, but 8-12 feet is about all that is practical in most homes/garages/shops.

7) Top construction, I do not like Formica. I prefer wood. I have one bench out of hard maple (an old school shop table) and one out of a double layer of 3/4" plywood. I believe I like the plywood top best. What ever the top is constructed of, it must not flex when using a press.

8) All reloading benches need storage shelves below the bench and the ability to install catcher containers below presses. I have a large sturdy bin below my shot shell press. When the shot shells are ejected out the rear of the press, they land in a mid-sized funnel that directs them through a hole in the bench top to the bin below. My metallic presses have spent primer tubes that feed through holes in the bench top to 1-liter pop bottles to collect the spent primers.

9) No reloading bench is complete with out a book case and I am beginning to wonder if a laptop computer will become the next must have for your bench.

10) I have also seen/used a bench with a shelf mounted tool box on the far end. I really liked it, but it will not work in the area I have my benches.

These are my thoughts and I am sure that some here will disagree with them. But they should, a reloading bench is a highly personalized tool. Each reloader will have his own idea of what is important. That is going to be your real issue. You will have to build some type of bench that individuals can customize to suit their own needs/wants. The other thing I have found is that reloaders, including myself, are cheap SOB's. They want the most bang for their buck and that is one of the reasons they reload.

"bullet heads..." ??? Is that like a Marine? (from a swabby)

My work horse presses are mounted on a steel stand, separate from my bench. Allows a liter bench and a stronger press stand. Mine is a piece of 32 inches of 10 inch well casing with 18 inch square 1/4 steel plates top and bottom. Slotted with shelves for storing shot in the well casing, All total ways about 400 lbs when full of shot and it does not move. Mounts two press on one side and can be rotated for one more progressive on opposite side if needed.
Next option would be a solid core door on a firm frame or stand.
Best Choice build a custom bench then the house around it LOL
Happy New Year

Look at Rembrandt's, post about 255 in this thread:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=218720&page=11

He has others in that thread - VERY nice. The recessed slots for the presses and cabinets are very cool

This is what I did

My bench is an island. I have access to all four sides and I mounted the presses to a steel plated directly above the legs. The legs are a heavy composite used for artificial decks. The 2'x4' shelves and top are heavy plywood with added structure underneath to prevent warping.

It needs to be solid with lots of storage... Reloaders can never have too much storage!