Reviews of Wolf .223 FMJ steel cased please

Should be fine, I have pushed a ton out of my Bushy AR Carbine without any problems, and so have my friends. And if you should break an extractor (and I doubt you will) they are cheap and exceedingly easy to repair.

Nope, been shooting it for years with no problems

It works fine in a 10 year old Mini-14.

Works in my DPMS, it's dirty but no issues.

It always worked well in my CMMG

Shot a box or 2 out of my MSAR. After a box or 2 one got stuck... I mean STUCK in my chamber. I now use brass ammo, for all my guns.

Works great in my Stag until it gets dirty (about 200 rds), at that point I get a stuck case every round until I scrub out the chamber.

Shoots fine has worked very well for being cheap to plink with. Just be sure you scrub the chamber and don't let the coatings from the steel case build up and cause a Stuck case...

Shots quite good. There is no "coating" coming off. The steel case does not seal as well as brass cased ammo, therefore you get carbon build up in the chamber that can lead to FTE's. Clean the chamber, and continue.

Use it for practice and plinking. I haven't noticed any extra wear on my rifles with it. Not like I'd care, I'd be more than happy to replace some parts...

Don't use it for a Carbine class or high ammo use competitions.

Steve in PA said:

Shots quite good. There is no "coating" coming off. The steel case does not seal as well as brass cased ammo, therefore you get carbon build up in the chamber that can lead to FTE's. Clean the chamber, and continue.

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Exactly. Steel will not fireform to your chamber like the softer brass, thereby letting all those hot dirty cumbustion gases into the chamber. Leaving carbon in mass quantities.

This being said, I prefer the Wolf 62gr above anything else. I get superb accuracy from my 1:8 16" stainless fluted bull bbl. Last time was 3/8 MOA@100 yards.

Willfully Armed said:

Exactly. Steel will not fireform to your chamber like the softer brass, thereby letting all those hot dirty cumbustion gases into the chamber. Leaving carbon in mass quantities.

This being said, I prefer the Wolf 62gr above anything else. I get superb accuracy from my 1:8 16" stainless fluted bull bbl. Last time was 3/8 MOA@100 yards.

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I am glad the lacquer fallacy is fading. Nothing wrong with steel cased ammo it's just dirty. Another point worth mentioning is if you intend to shoot brass cased ammo and steel in the same outing without cleaning shoot the brass first. A dirty chamber with soft porous brass is a quick way to get a stuck case. My preference is for Brown Bear or Barnaul, same thing. As cheap or cheaper than Wolf and has been very consistent for me. I also prefer the 62 grain HP's over the FMJ.

Some rifles eat it for lunch others wont function with it. Dont buy a case without thrying in your own rifle first

I don't recommend it, in an ar; even if your rifle is the toughest ever made in the history of ar's, you are adding another element to your rifle, whether you like it or not; lacquer. there is no denying this, not by anyone here; you are adding lacquer to melt into your chamber, and anywhere else it happens to wanna get onto. Unless this ammo is now being made unlacquered.

As far as accuracy goes, it is pretty good. I tested it extensively through a cz 527 carbine, and got plenty of sub moa results with it, but it did have the occasional flyer. The strange part was, it actually showed better accuracy potential, than the 55 grain wolf, but the 55 grainers through no flyers...
here is one pic I kept of the 62 grainers...

As already stated the lacqure coating making Wolf get stuck is nothing more than another interent myth.
Its the carbon/shoot build up from the steel cases not expanding the way brass does
Read all about it here:
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/edu18.htm

Unless this ammo is now being made unlacquered.

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Word has it they no longer use lacquer.
I do not know that to be fact.
Have shot quite a bit of what's called "polymer" coated, and have had zero problems. (but I have never tried switching from steel to brass without a chamber cleaning)

rangerruck said:

Unless this ammo is now being made unlacquered.

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It is.

If your Wolf ammo is gray you have the newer polymer coating. You have to worry about carbon build-up in the chamber as others have mentioned.

If your Wolf ammo is green-ish you have the old lacquer coating. Then you have to worry about the lacquer turning into some type of evil glue in your chamber.

From the Wolf website. Reference the third bullet point.
http://www.wolfammo.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=77&Itemid=116

Text:
Mil-Spec design delivers reliable functioning
7.62x39 and 5.45x39 feature Mil-Spec sealant around case mouth
Polymer coating ensures smooth feeding and extraction

works in my mini

No good for my Bushmaster M17, but other steel cased fodder does just fine.

I've used it, but in my .223 Saiga. I actually prefer Brown Bear much more.

Use it in my .223 Saiga and it eats it fine.....will have to try Brown Bear....but I just ordered 1,000 rounds of wolf ($22.50/100) from aimssurpluss.

Saiga .223 FTW.. Mine is unstoppable with Wolf, Brown Bear, anything..

Used about 400 rounds of it in my Bushmaster XM15. 5 stuck casings in the chamber at this point, with the last one being stuck so hard that there was serious question over whether it damaged the gun just getting it out. Severe force was required. It's brass only from now on for me. Going to leave the steel case for the AK.

hoodfu, I would give Barnaul (Brown, Silver, and Golden Bear) a shot, it does fine in my Bushmaster M17, whereas Wolf performed as you described (but with no damage).