paint on Arsenal SGL 21

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Phineas Dregg

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I'm thinking of getting an Arsenal SGL 21. Almost everything I've read says they're fantastic, but I've seen this crazy "paint" word thrown around a few times. Is the finish really just a cheap paint job, or am I missing out on some gun lingo? Has anyone who has had one for a while noticed any wear problems with the finish? I'm not worried so much about the aesthetics as I am worried about protecting the metal from rust. Of course, I'll keep it oiled, but if it ends up with spots of bare metal exposed, it seems like I'm looking for problems.
 
It must be similar to Duracoat polymer base paint because my spray cleaner took it right off.
 
Saigas, including the SGL, have parkerizing (phosphate) as the primary metal protection, and black paint on top of that. If you wear off the paint, you still have parkerizing, which is ALL you have on a lot of other military-style guns including M16/AR-15 types (on their steel surfaces).

It's not the prettiest, but it works fine.
 
Awesome! I didn't know about the parkerizing, but that sounds like plenty. I was afraid it was just spray can over steel.
 
I don't know about the SLG's but the Bulgarian guns have a paint that does wear off pretty easily.
 
Be advised that the SGL rifles from Arsenal are painted while the RAA Saigas do not have the same finish. I have both types of rifles and the RAA Saigas may be painted but it is different. The Arsenal paint can easily be removed by the use of "Winchester Breakfree Powder Blast" spray cleaner available at your local Wal Mart. I am assuming the Arsenal paint is a polymer base like DuraCoat as these cleaners are designed to remove plastic wad fouling from shotgun barrels.
 
Duracoat is a two part epoxy epoxy paint. Te only way I know of to remove it it physically, like by sand blasting.

I stripped the factory paint off my Arsenal rifle as it was getting chipped and I had tried to do a spray can camo job it that didn't work out all that well. The factory paint was softened by Mpro7 and LSA. Ballistol and CLP didn't seem to effect it in the least.

It now has Duracoat over the factory parkerizing and that worked out pretty well. BSW

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IMG_1586.jpg
 
More and more advertising nonsense about Duracoat not being able to be removed by anything other than sand blasting. Sorry, but that's BULL! Duracoat is removed easily with some 30-minute stripper from Home Depot, epoxy based paint will literally wipe right off like mud after a 40 minute bath in that stuff. Also, harsh chemicals, mainly chlorinated ones, like Brake Cleaner, will take duracoat right off if not permanently ruin it and make removal necessary. Same goes for Aluma-Hyde II. These things come off easier than they went on.

I challenge anyone who has such faith in duracoat to try either of those chemicals and let me know how it went!
 
Thanks for the replies. Sounds like I should expect the finish to come off, but re-coating it myself shouldn't be too problematic.
 
I have one, and the finish is alright. Not the best, but definitely better than a can 'o crylon spray paint. I've so far been very satisfied with it, but I've also haven't been crawling through bombed out buildings with it either.
 
Quote: It now has Duracoat over the factory parkerizing and that worked out pretty well. BSW


looks good!
 
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I love Krylon! I have 4 coats of Krylon with 4 coats of clear matte finish, cost me 20 bucks with tons left over.
 
Does Arsenal make any AK's with out that funky flash hider on it?

I prefer the slant brake type that screws on the muzzle but thats just me.
 
The muzzle on mine is threaded 24mm. I the pic I posted there is a brake on it. There is also a flash hider or a thread protector available in that size.

BSW
 
Thanks for LMK about that. I might go ahead and get one. I used to have a Polytech AK w/milled receiver but it had terrible accuracy. It was way over 4" MOA.
 
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