Best camera lenses / settings for gun photography?

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SolidChoice

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I've seen a lot of really nice pictures of firearms on this site -- many of them showing small details of actions quite well. Aside from building a light/macro box, does anyone have any tips on favorite lenses, focal lengths, or other settings for getting quality shots? I have a Canon 50D, and even with a lot of manual setting work, I'm still having trouble getting images I'm happy with.
 
I recommend a fast lens, like the Canon 50mm prime.

Natural light images tend to look better, and to require lower ISO settings, creating much less "noise".
 
Lighting is the key as you already know. Also you want to shoot in as high a f-stop (as in a small aperture opening) as is possible with your lens for the most depth of field. More than likely, the "wildflower" setting is the one you probably want if you shoot on automatic. The ideal lense would likely be a dedictated macro or in the case of Nikon, Micro lens. The old Nikon 105mm Micro was a fantastic sharp lens.

A trip to Walmart's cloth section might be useful in picking up a yard of a number of different fabrics (color and texture) for a nice clean background.

You can make reflectors to bounce light onto your subject outdoors or you can use a number flash units. Most cameras have a fill flash setting which is quite useful in removing shadows outdoors and giving you as much depth of field as is possible.
 
i'm more a Nikon guy than a Cannon guy, but the same general tips should apply.

1. a prime lense will be better than a zoom with a Macro lense having it's elements optimized for close work. i like the Nikkor 60mm Micro and the Sigma 70mm Macro
2. i like to shoot with an open aperture to make a detail pop out of a blurred background:
beveled slide stop on Kahr
DSC_1703.gif
focus on shape of mag lips of EMP
DSC_1676.gif

but the smaller aperture will keep more of a gun in focus if you want to see the whole thing in focus
3. while a light box is best and direct flash is the worst, natural light usually works great and is cheap (overcast days are the best...no shadows)
4. shooting at a lower ISO and using a tripod usually allows the best picture quality
 
Many photography "purists" will tell you to that post-production is kind of like cheating (e.g. "take the picture you want to take")...but I find that playing around with Adobe Photoshop can be a real benefit. Little things like just one or two steps of sharpness, saturation of color, cropping, etc. can make big differences in the finished product.
For those of us on a budget, rather than spending $600.00+ on CS4, you can pick up Elements 8 for around $100.00. This includes a photo and video editor and I've had very good luck with it. It's a great package for those of us in the semi-professional realm.

I've been playing with the RAW editor settings (rather then large, medium, or small JPEG) on my Canon Rebel T2i. This gives you much more flexibility with what you can do in post production, but it is much more time consuming.
The only thing I DON'T like about photoshop work in RAW is that you tend to lose some of the quality when you convert it back to JPEG format for e-mails, powerpoint, etc.
I do all my work in manual mode on the camera, no flash. I'd rather trade a slower shutter speed for use of the flash any day....a tripod with remote shutter release is a must for this type of photography.
Keep a good journal for each photo too. This way you can refer back to the things that worked in a particular photo, as well as what didn't work. No more wasting film!! Just battery life...
 
one of the major advantages of digital photography...and one of its greatest faults...is the ability to take numerous pictures without additional expense in development.

Pro: you get to try different exposures of the same shot and get to chimp (peek at pictures on the screen after every shot)

Con: folks don't spend as much time getting the shot right the first time...when was the last time you saw a photographer actually use a hand held light meter to take a reading
 
The light meters in cameras are so advanced these days, you don't really need a seperate light meter unless you are using studio lights or are doing a really "Pro" set up.

-Mark.
 
SolidChoice, it depends on what you're trying to achieve. If you want closeup details many cameras nowadays have macro settings, even the point and shoot cameras. After that it's mostly lighting. I haven't had the budget for studio lighting so I've used table lamps and sketch paper to diffuse it. For a long time I was using a Canon G3 that I bought used, and I got many compliments on the results. It doesn't take an extremely expensive camera to post results that look good for viewing online. Print is another matter.

For general work, I stick with lenses between 35mm and 105mm (as measured by a 35mm format). If you're going to be doing closeup work, I strongly recommend a tripod.

Con: folks don't spend as much time getting the shot right the first time...when was the last time you saw a photographer actually use a hand held light meter to take a reading

I guess you don't see me much. ;)

4458145355_8c25749c88.png
 
I have the same Sekonic. In 25 years I have never seen an LD on a video production use a light meter. They all just use a video monitor whether it's been set correctly or not. When I am lighting and take my meter out people look at me like they just saw bigfoot.
 
When I am lighting and take my meter out people look at me like they just saw bigfoot.

i got the same look when i mentioned using a "grey card"...i still think fondly of when i used a twin-lense reflex and 120mm film
 
My canon, which has slightly diff software but built on the 50D frame, will bring the image in the foreground to a crisp focus while blurring the background using the automatic setting for portraits.

I also vote for the "nifty fifty" lense and Adobe lightroom for editing.

Always remember that a good picture is a good picture no matter what you did to produce it.
 
I have a 30D body. There are two lenses that I use almost exclusively for gun photography:

* For action shooting (3Gun etc) I use the 70-200 F/4L

* For product shots or wide-angle outdoor shots I use a 24-70 F/2.8L
 
I'm no photographer but in the time it takes someone to load a 30rd mag, I set up a table and took a bunch of pictures of my AR.

Just use a camera that doesn't make phone calls, don't use the flash and try to use natural light.

Macro for close stuff if you really want. Play in photoshop if you want effects.

Guncontrol.jpg
AR2023.jpg
pmags.jpg
barrel2.jpg
Side.jpg
 
My opinion. Sigma 70mm EX DG Macro. I just sold mine in a Pentax mount. One of the, if not THE, sharpest lenses made by Sigma. A tripod is a must if you are going to set your aperture open in low light or to reduce the focal plane. If you really want to be picky, use a remote shutter actuator and set the camera to 2-second delay. This will let the camera stabilize after mirror slap.
 
I would recommend the Canon S3 IS. My friend has it and says it has good image quality, a 10x or greater zoom, and the ability to take shots quickly, such as a fast burst mode for action shots. It is relatively inexpensive for a nice camera.
 
I'll repeat the tripod suggestion. Can't suggest a tripod enough. Turning on mirror lockup will help a bit for the still life type shots. Figure out what aperture setting on your lens is sharpest. IIRC, it is usually somewhere in the middle of the range. Prime glass, too. Whatever Canon's inexpensive 50ish mm lens is would be the place to start.
 
jeez, I finally make contact with other Sigma 70mm users. I've used mine for portraiture, however, for the most part--my gun shots so far have typically been 'candids' with the Nikkor 18-70.

Mine is on a D80, and 9mmepiphany pretty well said what I know.

Jim H.
 
Canon = gun grabbing antis. Nikon all the way for me. Or heck....anyone but Canon.
 
I have only been into photography about 10 years. But from what I have learned and heard there is basically nothing wrong with any camera. The lens is the important part. And skill in using the equipment. Just use the camera you have and get a good lens. Doesn't really even have to be a macro unless you really want one. 35mm, 50mm, 70mm, Vivitar 105mm, etc. etc. etc.
 

It was quite a few years ago when this first came to light. I had to google to make sure I got the details correct and found a posting that pretty much summed it up in one paragraph. Here's a basic rundown of that:

Canon requires every employee to disclose whether they had a CHL as a term of employment. They also require all employees to advise the Human Resources department if they ever apply for a CHL and if their status as a CHL holder changes. Canon said that they would periodically send a request to the DPS to check whether they had a CHL.

It has nothing to do with bringing a gun into work. I'm sure their policy prohibits that already. To go to those extremes, you have to be pretty passionate about it. Yup, big time antis.
 
There was a time when an SLR with interchangable lenses would have been my recommendation, but today's digital cameras are great for most non-professional photography. I use a Canon SureShot for all my photos.
 
Tripod,Get a good (not StufMart) Tripod.
Light diffusion, Make a good light box or some sort of reflector/diffuser for outside shots.

If you want cool depth of field, get fast glass, f2.8 or better.


Learn how light and shadow works.
 
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