What's the best way to fix this?

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So I had a friend come to me and ask me this. I honestly have no idea. Anyway, he has a gun with a laminate stock on it. The problem was that someone took a sharpie or similar or that's how it looked and marked some of the lighter spots with it. We have no idea why, and honestly it didn't look the best. We tried to get it off with water, but had no luck. He ended up using some Krud Kutter http://www.krudkutter.com/ on it and of course it took the marker, or whatever it was right off. The issue is that he is afraid it took the finish off the gun too. In most of the spots he rubbed it heavily to get the marks off, you can tell no difference. However, there is a spot it may have gotten on that you can kind of feel the wood in. He can't remember if it was like this before using this stuff nor can I. So did this stuff most likely strip the finish off? If so, what does he need to do to prevent having issues in the future, or is he pretty much screwed?
 
Yes, he probably took some finish off. He could try to match the finish and refinish just that area. It would be hard to get a perfect match though.

For a laminated stock, I would probably try two parts of semi-gloss polyurethane varnish mixed with one part odor free mineral spirits. Wipe it on with a rag and let dry for a day or two. It will take at least three coats to build up a finish. Sand with very fine sandpaper before each coat.

He might have to refinish the whole stock to get a perfect match.
 
Finish just seals the surface pores to slow absorption of water and stock warpage. With laminate, it's not likely, which makes it visual enhancement and grip. Military stocks were never finished.

Boiled linseed oil would do it, and any one of a dozen stock finishes. Birchwood Casey's Truoil has done the job for over 50 years. The biggest problem is choosing which one.
 
Is there a way to tell if the finish came off? Visually, it's hard to see any difference from the rest of the stock. Infact, even in bright light you can't tell any difference. He is just wondering if he should get it refinished as he isn't comfortable doing it himself, or if he should just leave it like it is.
 
Military stocks were never finished.

No, they're most often finished with linseed oil, sometimes raw, sometimes boiled. Some are also finished with shellac of widely varying quality. There weren't a whole lot of other options before the 1950's or so. The clear shellac finish on 1950's k31's never seems to have flaked off as badly as the stuff on Russian Mosin Nagants, it was likely a better quality of shellac. I've read that the Finn's used pine tar as a finish on their Mosin Nagants. It all depends on what was readily available and cheap for the contractor.
 
If it looks okay, forget it ... especially if this is a working gun. Any gun that gets used is going to get dinged up anyway. I'd leave it the way it is. After a few years of honest wear, then he can consider refinishing it.
 
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Is there a way to tell if the finish came off? Visually, it's hard to see any difference from the rest of the stock.

Not an aesthetics test, but what about testing the spot with a drop of water? If absorbed, then bare wood exists at that spot, i.e. "no finish". Or you could maybe test several spots and compare?
 
If this is a modern, non-collectible gun, I'd say just lightly sand the whole thing and refinish it. Refinishing wood is really a pretty straightforward process. Some laminates can be a little more challenging, but rifle stocks are usually made of wood with similar hardness.

Even if it is an older gun, if much of the original finish has been removed, quite a bit of collector value has been destroyed and you might be better off refinishing it anyway.

Impossible to tell without pictures.
 
I will ask for pictures, however, having seen this, I know you won't be able to tell much from pictures as you can't tell in person if it's been removed or not. Or at least I can't as it looks the same as the rest of the stock.
 
if everything looks alright i would just leave it.......

theres really nothing wrong with having a little finish taken off.....it shouldnt hurt the performance in any way....

the more you fuss around with it the greater the chance of donkey-ing something up.
 
Okay, so I talked to him and told him your suggestions with the water and he tried that and said he couldn't see a difference at all when putting a drop on the spots he messed with, or on the spots he didn't mess with. He also let it run and it looked the same when it ran. He said he let the water sit for maybe 15-20 seconds and it just stayed there as a bead in both areas until he wiped it off.

Here are also some pictures.
This is the side that wasn't messed with.
Stock5.jpg
Stock4.jpg
Stock6.jpg

Now this is the side that was messed with. BTW the lighter spots were already there. That's what someone had tried to cover with a marker or something that looked like a marker. When he wiped the marker off it looked lighter like this. You could tell it was like this underneath the marker. So he didn't make the lighter spots, but the rest around that area is where he used the Krud Kutter.
Stock10.jpg
Stock11.jpg
Stock13.jpg
Stock22.jpg
 
That looks weird. In the future, rubbing alcohol usually removes ink if water didn't. If he's concerned (and I don't think he should be) a spray can of clear matte spar urethane should seal everything right up.
 
It may be dulled a little from the rubbing, but probably didn't go clear through the finish. I would use a liquid product like Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen or Stock Wax on the entire stock and forget about it. You probably won't even notice it after that.
 
Krud Kutter is a cleaner, not solvent. I doubt it hurt the finish at all. any loss of sheen maybe due to rubbing too hard. A little hard-shell paste wax will shine/slick it up, otherwise let it smooth out with wear/use.
 
Like I said, neither one of us can tell that anything is missing, he was just worried and wondered if there was a way for him to make sure he didn't take the finish off.
 
Whoever said to put some wax on it is probably correct. Not being able to see the gun, I can't say for sure whether he managed to rub through the finish. Doesn't sound like he did though.
 
I keep thinking you should be able to see or at least feel that the finish is gone. Am I correct in thinking this?
 
Yes, if the finish is gone you would see and feel the wood grain. If there's still some finish, he could buff it with 1000 & 2000 grit emery paper (from paint area of automotive store), then put some paste wax on it.

It doesn't look bad from the pictures. If he leaves it like this, he won't feel so bad when he dings the stock.
 
Well, you can feel the wood grain in one spot, but I have a feeling it was like that before as there are other spots you on the other side that you can feel the wood grain too. Does that mean since you can feel it the finish is gone right there? It's also not where he says he scrubbed that you can feel the wood grain, but he said some of the liquid cleaner might have gotten there.
 
No, being able feel the wood grain doesn't necessarily mean the finish is gone. It could have a thin finish that doesn't fill the grain. If water beads and doesn't darken the wood after a couple minutes, then it's still sealed. You want it to be sealed so that any oil or other stuff that gets on it won't stain the wood and make it blotchy. On the other hand, laminated wood is soaked in resin when it's produced, I'm not sure if this gives it any protection from staining. What are the orange stains from?
 
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