Quick questions on wood laminate stocks

I'd like to hear some things about refinishing laminate as well.

I've been fighting a "blemished" Remington Model 5 laminate stock that I've sanded down to bare wood two times. It just won't take stain evenly in some layers of the laminate. I usually work with one piece wood stocks and using stain has never been a problem.

Most laminated stocks are made from birch; a few also incorporate woods like maple. Apply a coat of Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner before you try to stain, and then it should turn out evenly.

nicholst55 said:

Apply a coat of Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner before you try to stain, and then it should turn out evenly.

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That's what I didn't do the first go round. So I had to sand it all the way back down. The second time, I used the Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and it was better, but still not as even as a factory sold stock.

It is workable though and is plenty good enough for field use.

Factory finishes are usually some kind of lacquer or conversion varnish, they do look terribly like either a vacuum sealed plastic coating or wood grain contact paper

I've never heard of a laminate stock de-laminating, with plywood its usually caused by severe water exposure that a gunstock would rarely see. Laminate stock blanks are made specifically for gunstocks, so they're typically not as cheaply made as the CDX plywood you get at Home Creepo, so I wouldn't expect a stock blank to de-laminate under any conditions really.

For staining, its going to be really hard to get any kind of penetrating stain to work with a laminate. Pre-stain conditioners are basically just turning a penetrating stain into a film coloration, and its going to be really hard to get them to work with hand application as opposed to spraying. My approach would be to use an oil compatible dye and a regular finishing oil that works well with a hand application, especially if its a fast curing oil like Waterlox. This way you can build a lot of thin coats with the color in them and thus get a more even look.

An alternative method would be to use a garnet or orange shellac for more of a milsurp look.

laminates

I've used just boiled linseed oil for a non-shiney finish, like a London-dull. With a little use, the initial shine goes away, and it's a natural smooth.
If you care for a more "Weatherby"-type, go to Varathane. It chips if you drop it, but I'm sure you will minimize THAT.
Also I don't stain mine. The closest I've done was when I did one of my "utility-grade" walnut stocks with a linseed-Coleman oil combination that really darkened the wood...to the extent that all the grain disappeared.
Have fun'
Gene