Tula primers

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spelsh

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Anybody have any experience with Tula primers? Thinking about small pistol for 9mm and .38spl
 
I use nothing but Wolf primers with no negatives to report.

As has been posted about their ammo, Tula is made in the same plant in Russia that also makes the Wolf and Herter's brands.
 
Unless they're a lot cheaper than CCI, Win, etc why bother?
They are often several dollars per thousand cheaper. At this past weekend's gun show in town, Winchester (bronze/brass cup) was $21.95 and TulAmmo (bronze/brass cup) was $16.95.

Although I am a devoted fan of Winchester primers, I gotta say good things about Wolf/TulAmmo primers based on my experience since last year - very consistent, as good as Winchester. Only thing is that LP primer cups are a tad bit larger so they require more "Ooomph" to properly seat in the primer pockets.

Although I prefer to buy Winchester over Wolf/TulAmmo, if that's what you can get, I definitely recommend them so long as you seat them firmly into the primer pockets to avoid mis-fires.
 
Thanks everyone! I can get a good deal on them $20/1000, and if I buy enough of them I can get free hazmat shipping that also includes powder.
 
Damn I wish I had known that. I just bought 9000 Tulas from PV and about 20lbs of powder. I didn't see anything on their webpage about it (but then again I wasn't looking).

As for the OP's question I hope they are the same as the Wolfies. I have used them since the great primer shortage and have no issues what-so-ever.
 
tula/wolf and other things

Ived used a klot of Wolf and had no problems in my 1911, but the glock 45acp miisfires 30% of the time. I will try the wolf in Henry 45LC rifle. And the Peacemaker . I wil be using Lee Dies in a dillon 650... do i need to crimp these rounds? Do i need different loads for rifle and pistol? 255gr snfb cast bullets. HELP!
 
As for the OP's question I hope they are the same as the Wolfies.
As far as how they shoot, they "feel" the same to me producing comparable shot groups. As to how they look, they have the same color priming compound but TulAmmo primer cup is more rounded than Wolf with slightly brighter brass finish.

Ived used a klot of Wolf and had no problems in my 1911, but the glock 45acp miisfires 30% of the time.
On Glocks I have worked on with over 5000-10000+ rounds experiencing lighter primer strike, the problem turned out to be hard caked on fouling buildup at the bottom of the striker pin tube (opposite side of the breech face where striker pin pokes through). The caked on fouling buildup is hard and hard to remove. I soak the hole with Hoppes #9 with the striker pin hole plugged (10-15 minutes). Then I take a small flat screwdriver and scrape the softened fouling build up out (repeat soak if necessary). In all cases, the striker hit returned to normal and no more misfires, even with Wolf primers.
 
Well I hope Tula primers work much better than Tula ammo.
After I got my AR about 6 months ago, I was broke.
& Cabela's had Tula .223 on sale for $3.50 a box.
So I stocked up. What some C-R-A-P!!!!!
It jams at least 3 x with every 20 rd mag.
Any brass ammo works flawlessly.

I think I only have 5-6 boxes left. -
 
Never used Tula but have had problems with Wolf sp and lp primers. The most ftf are with my Glock 34 but I have had issues with a Colt model 70 and STI 1911. Will only use them for practice until they run out. Have not had any issues with Winchester or CCI by the way.
 
Nice deal - guess they're concerned that we'll forgo the primers & powders for this month to focus on buying Christmas presents for others.

It'd be nice to get primers & powder for a present, but no one I know would know what kind to get for me.
 
I love the information on this forum. You can always get an honest, straight forward answer. Thanks everyone!
 
I love the information on this forum. You can always get an honest, straight forward answer.
spelsh, this is THR and we sure try to be fair and objective. Reloading involves many components/processes and failure-to-feed/misfires/ failure-to-eject are often blamed on the wrong component/process. I am a long-time fan of Winchester primers but if Wolf/Tula/PMC primers are good, then we need to share this information with other reloaders so they know the "truth" about reloading components. BTW, for some reason, I don't see anyone trash talking Magtech primers from Brazil? Yes, I also use Magtech primers as SP feeds better in the quirky Pro 1000 primer attachment.

Take primer failure to ignite for example that is often blamed as "bad lot of primer or a few bad primer of the 100 in the tray" when the true cause is often improperly seated primer cup (not seated deep enough in the primer pocket) where the anvil was not set against the priming compound.

I hand prime Wolf/Tula/PMC SP primers and press prime LP primers and have yet to experience a single primer that failed to ignite. For me, Wolf/Tula (same) primers perform comparable to Winchester primers requiring the same powder charge, but PMC often requires 0.2-0.3 gr more charge depending on the powder used. I wondered about this and after reading the articles at The Rifleman's Journal by precision bench shooters, I realized that PMC primer flash is not as hot as Winchester but more consistent. My experience has been the same as my shot groups from PMC primer loads match or surpass my Winchester primer loads.

Here is an article about Wolf/Tula/PMC primers being more consistent than other brand primers. The article has both small and large primer comparisons.

As to a few bad primers out of the 100 tray or 1000 box, here's what the author of the primer comparison article had to say about Wolf primers:

... you asked if it might be a fluke, a bad primer or two in the lot. Generally speaking, no. Modern primer manufacture in the US and abroad and especially in the Murom plant where the Wolf primers are made, is held to such a close standard that the possibility of a bad primer is infinitesimal, the odds of more than one are essentially zero. When misfires are experienced, the primer is generally the last place to look for the cause. I'm not suggesting it is impossible to have a bad primer, simply that the probability of that is exceedingly low.
 
If they are the same as Wolf they are good to go. I've used small pistol standard and magnum, large pistol and small rifle and they have all worked without problems.
Pat
 
I buy Wolf at the local gun show for $99 per 5,000 so the Powder Valley deal is really no deal for me.
 
Quote "Damn I wish I had known that. I just bought 9000 Tulas from PV and about 20lbs of powder. I didn't see anything on their webpage about it (but then again I wasn't looking)."

Rvenick....Just call them and add another 1000 Tula primers to your order to get the customer appreciation price.
 
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another advantage

Here's another advantage. They come with the primers facing the correct direction to load into primer pickup tubes. No primer flipping required! Simply place on flat surface with tray facing down. Slide cover off and pickup the tray. There the primers sit in perfectly ordered rows ready to loaded into the pickup tube.
 
I did some more range testing with the new Tula SP/LP primers I recently got.

The SP lot number is 20-10 and the primer cup is dark silver/gray colored.
The LP lot number is 15-10 and the primer cup is bronze/brass colored.

Comparison rounds were loaded using Winchester SP/LP, Wolf LP, Magtech SP and PMC SP primers.

Tula primer cup strikes were similar to Winchester/Magtech/Wolf primers and as anticipated, the softer PMC primer cup strikes were deeper.

So far, no failure to ignite issues with these Tula primers, especially the SP.
 
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