The importance of the crown on a rifle?

Picher:

You are right, I mistakenly picked out a later photo which showed even more improvement from a partial action bed and a free floating. I did it in stages, but not all of my old photos are in my newer computer. Often using another shooter just to make sure the improvements or set-back were not just me and my old eyeballs.

This should be the correct photo showing after the re-crown alone. Using the same load as the first, which at the time was the only load that would shoot worth a darn in this rifle....Unfortunately that bullet, at those speeds flew apart when hitting moose.

Also I have attached a photo of how the rifle now shoots. It now has a full action glass bed and a full channel barrel bed. The action has been smoothed up, sights have been added and so on....
That load is with a 275 grain Barnes old stock. It will do pretty much the same thing now with Swift 280 grain bullets.

Well float, not to be picky, but you are shoing 220 grain speer fp verses 275 barnes SP. COULD be just your barrel likes those 275gr barns better

Yes you are being picky.
I posted before crown, after crown and after crown & partial bedding with the 220s. They just happen to be on two pages.
I guess I should have stopped there...

The, just for kicks, photo of the group with 275s just shows that a crappy Ruger can (at times) be made to shoot well, with lots of work.
I do not have any pics of how the 275s used to shoot before I worked on the rifle, because it was so bad that it was scary. The photo of the horrible group of 220s on the first page was the BEST group that this rifle could fire when it came out of the box.
A real stinker from the factory, but it now does pretty well as a hunting / protection rifle.

Now I have to wander out to the shop and figure out why a 300 Win Mag is shooting bizarre groups.

Ah ok. I was confused for a moment there (Like thats hard to do anyway)

Did you use a crowning tool on that Ruger ( if so what kind ), or did you remove the barrel and use the lathe?

When re-crowning a barrel,what is done to the bore/rifling? Wouldn't something have to be done to eliminate burrs and such left over from machining the crown?

Back from the shop..The front scope mount was loose on a M-700. Now I have to sit and watch a movie with the wife...

OYE: http://www.mansonreamers.com/
He really makes some nice stuff.

I also have about 80% of an old oddball set from Germany that came in a walnut box. I have no idea who made them, but they are super hard. They cut barrel steel like butter.

RugerGP100: When done right you do not have any burrs or chatter marks. (caused by bouncing the reamer) There is a smooth caliber specific guide that fits into the bore that centers the reamers. Of course you polish for a final finish.

Post fro above;

"When re-crowning a barrel,what is done to the bore/rifling? Wouldn't something have to be done to eliminate burrs and such left over from machining the crown?"

Indeed so, which is why a gunsmith who specializes in accuracy will spend almost as much time finishing the crown as cutting the chamber. Then carefully inspecting it with a magnifying glass for burrs, etc. I know a number of serious target shooters, myself included, who own lathes mainly for the purpose doing their own crown jobs and recrowning when necessary.

Thanks. My Ruger GP100 6" SS came with chatter where the crown meets the rifling. I can't hit a darn thing with it. If it was yours would you send it back to Ruger? Or is it as simple as this seems to make it? iIn another video he cuts a few inches off of a rifle barrel and it does not appear that he's too careful about the cut being exactly perpendicular to the barrel. If how the gas pressures exit the barrel are critical to achieve accuracy,why such a relaxed mindset as to whether or not they begin exiting equally around the full circumference of the barrel? I'd think that using a hand file wouldn't even get you close to a cut that's exactly 90* to the barrel.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OorpZlG28fI&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b43odFm0mrI&feature=related

Does the barrel above need a good smith?

Muzzle crown photo

Mr. Gp100---guru1911 here for you !!!

If that is an actual photo of the crown on your revolver, it needs some serious metallic surgery. Wished you lived nearby so i could correct that crown for you. Cost to cut, lap, & polish to a sparkling finish would cost $50.00.

When i figure out how to post photos on this forum, i will send you some photos of my work---30 years of practice sure helps.

Thanks for your response,GURU1911. Does it look like the condition would cause accuracy problems? I bought the gun new last spring.

A trick that might help, as the crown looks rough but even, is to polish it. Get some bore paste, about 10 bucks for a small container, it lasts a long time, get a BRASS screw that fits nicely into the crown. Chuck the screw into a hi speed screw gun, coat the screw with bore paste and be liberal about it. Use the round end of the screw to polish the crown. The brass and bore paste will not hurt it. I have done this to a few rifles and have always had good results when the crown is not damaged.

Thanks

So what is the effect of a flash hider on a crowned muzzle?