TempestP226
Member
I doubt any do as well, it's just my personal preference. I'm certainly open to learning something new, and hearing reasoning that has yet to occur to me, so please, do tell.
Home defense - shotgun and which handgun?
- Thread starter strpar
- Start date
- Status
Well the following are my opinion based on my training, shooting experience, and legal experience.
First, I start from the premise that any time I would fire my HD weapon at another person it is because that person presents an imminent threat of death or serious bodily injury. If they do not then I am not legally justified in resulting to lethal force. As an aside the legal justification behind "castle doctrine" laws is that one that has broken into your home is presumed to present the type of threat described above.
If someone is an imminent threat of death or serious bodily injury then my proximate goal is to stop that person from being such a threat. What will cause them to no longer be such a threat? That is hard to say in every case. There in essence two ways in which people are stopped from being such a threat. First is a physiological stop. This is in essence when the person who is a threat chooses to change what they are doing or their intentions. Any number of things could cause this to happen. For example, the bad guy sees a gun and thinks better of his course of action and flees. Someone being shot and at that point giving up would be in this category. Someone desisting their offending actions because of pain, injury, etc would all fall into this category. The problem with psychological stops is that you can never rely on it happening. What will be sufficient to cause one person to no longer be a threat may not even phase another person. I am personally acquainted with someone who was shot during an incident and literally didn't even notice until the excitement of the event was over. Another recent example of failure to produce a psychological stop was the video that circulated of the gentleman who opened fire at a meeting and was engaged by a security guard. The shooter was struck multiple times and continued his attack and even after being shot more continued to return fire at the security guard while he, the attacker, was on the ground.
If a psychological stop cannot be relied upon, and there are a myriad of examples of it being insufficient, then we must turn to the second way in which a threat can be stopped, a physiological stop. Simply put this is when the person is rendered physically incapable of being a threat. Common ways for this to occur are, unconsciousness (say from loss of blood), death, damage to the nervous system, etc.
If a physiological stop is a defenders goal then that defender needs something that can produce those results. It is worth remembering again at this point the nature of the threat, it is an imminent threat. Thus, the defender needs not only a physiological stop but he needs it ASAP. To get this kind of stop projectiles need to either hit the central nervous system (about the only way you are going to get an instant stop) or alternately reach the major vital organs and do sufficient damage to cause sufficient blood loss to stop a threat.
With that in mind bird shot is simply a very poor choice for such a situation. It has a tendency not not reliably penetrate to major organ or the CNS. That is true in a full frontal shot, in the real world a defender is not always presented with a square full frontal shot. A projectile might first strike an arm or something else that is in the way. The wound channels that bird shot produces are also less than ideal for meeting the above stated goals.
I really cannot think of a good reason to have bird shot in a SD gun. Even if there was a reason I would not mix the tube. A mixed tube is not a real good idea generally. If I am going to fire my weapon I want to have some reasonable idea of what is coming out the end and how it will perform. In a SD shooting incident I do not believe it is reasonable to expect one to be able to count shots or keep track of the order mixed ammo etc. People seem to have great difficulty doing this under what I imagine are less stressful events than a life or death situation.
A common justification for bird shot is fear of over penetration. This is moot if you are mixing in rounds of buckshot. I also believe it is poor logic. Their are better ways of dealing with that concern while still having a tool on hand that is better suited to being able to stop an imminent threat.
I could go on but I am sure I have written enough to bore anyone reading this. In sum, I see no upside to the bird shot. I see it as a liability and an even greater one when it is a mixed load.
First, I start from the premise that any time I would fire my HD weapon at another person it is because that person presents an imminent threat of death or serious bodily injury. If they do not then I am not legally justified in resulting to lethal force. As an aside the legal justification behind "castle doctrine" laws is that one that has broken into your home is presumed to present the type of threat described above.
If someone is an imminent threat of death or serious bodily injury then my proximate goal is to stop that person from being such a threat. What will cause them to no longer be such a threat? That is hard to say in every case. There in essence two ways in which people are stopped from being such a threat. First is a physiological stop. This is in essence when the person who is a threat chooses to change what they are doing or their intentions. Any number of things could cause this to happen. For example, the bad guy sees a gun and thinks better of his course of action and flees. Someone being shot and at that point giving up would be in this category. Someone desisting their offending actions because of pain, injury, etc would all fall into this category. The problem with psychological stops is that you can never rely on it happening. What will be sufficient to cause one person to no longer be a threat may not even phase another person. I am personally acquainted with someone who was shot during an incident and literally didn't even notice until the excitement of the event was over. Another recent example of failure to produce a psychological stop was the video that circulated of the gentleman who opened fire at a meeting and was engaged by a security guard. The shooter was struck multiple times and continued his attack and even after being shot more continued to return fire at the security guard while he, the attacker, was on the ground.
If a psychological stop cannot be relied upon, and there are a myriad of examples of it being insufficient, then we must turn to the second way in which a threat can be stopped, a physiological stop. Simply put this is when the person is rendered physically incapable of being a threat. Common ways for this to occur are, unconsciousness (say from loss of blood), death, damage to the nervous system, etc.
If a physiological stop is a defenders goal then that defender needs something that can produce those results. It is worth remembering again at this point the nature of the threat, it is an imminent threat. Thus, the defender needs not only a physiological stop but he needs it ASAP. To get this kind of stop projectiles need to either hit the central nervous system (about the only way you are going to get an instant stop) or alternately reach the major vital organs and do sufficient damage to cause sufficient blood loss to stop a threat.
With that in mind bird shot is simply a very poor choice for such a situation. It has a tendency not not reliably penetrate to major organ or the CNS. That is true in a full frontal shot, in the real world a defender is not always presented with a square full frontal shot. A projectile might first strike an arm or something else that is in the way. The wound channels that bird shot produces are also less than ideal for meeting the above stated goals.
I really cannot think of a good reason to have bird shot in a SD gun. Even if there was a reason I would not mix the tube. A mixed tube is not a real good idea generally. If I am going to fire my weapon I want to have some reasonable idea of what is coming out the end and how it will perform. In a SD shooting incident I do not believe it is reasonable to expect one to be able to count shots or keep track of the order mixed ammo etc. People seem to have great difficulty doing this under what I imagine are less stressful events than a life or death situation.
A common justification for bird shot is fear of over penetration. This is moot if you are mixing in rounds of buckshot. I also believe it is poor logic. Their are better ways of dealing with that concern while still having a tool on hand that is better suited to being able to stop an imminent threat.
I could go on but I am sure I have written enough to bore anyone reading this. In sum, I see no upside to the bird shot. I see it as a liability and an even greater one when it is a mixed load.
Shadow 7D
Member
Surprisingly, most defense happens with what you have handy.
dashootist
Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2010
- Messages
- 551
A gun is a gun. Put a round of 22 or 45 in between the shirt pockets, and attacker will go down. Go to the range and try some rental guns first. Buy what feels good and comforting to you. If you can shoot it well and you're not afraid to carry it, then go for it. (I don't feel comfortable carry a 1911 cocked-and-locked; so I'd not buy one for cc.) Check ammo cost before buying gun. Some ammos cost alot more. In general, heavier/bigger guns are easier and more pleasant to shoot than light weight guns; but lighter/small guns are easier to conceal carry. You have to decide your happy zone.
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SoulLessGinger
Member
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2010
- Messages
- 69
Whoa there...
Those who have actual experience in such things will disagree. First off, if you're counting on your marksmanship skills to save you in a defensive situation good luck with that. That same adrenalin thats going to keep you from doing anything resembling aimed fire is the same adrenalin that's going to let a BG with the right mindset walk right through your 22. A lucky vital shot that manages not to stop on a rib is not my idea of a game winning plan. I've been to enough shootings to tell you that service calibers are effective, mouse calibers...not so much.
Get a good gun, in a service caliber, and get some training in using it defensively. Not just punching paper at the range (as much as I love doing that)
Onward Allusion
Member
http://www.thehighroad.org/member.php?u=139807
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot41.htm
With so many variables, go to a range that has rentals and shoot, shoot, shoot. You're going to have people here recommending everything from .357 Mag 4" revolvers to Glock 22's with a tac light. All I would recommend is to not get anything less than a 4" .38spl that can handle +P rounds or a decent capacity 9mm for home defense.
Unless you're loading the Juge with .45 LC, I would suggest another weapon.
http://www.theboxotruth.com/docs/bot41.htm
With so many variables, go to a range that has rentals and shoot, shoot, shoot. You're going to have people here recommending everything from .357 Mag 4" revolvers to Glock 22's with a tac light. All I would recommend is to not get anything less than a 4" .38spl that can handle +P rounds or a decent capacity 9mm for home defense.
True, but a .22 will kill (and more times over then any other caliber...according to some stats, although I'm sure that has more to do with its wide usage then its ballistics).
They are really tiny, and rimfire which is more opt to present an issue, but for those with various physical limitations a good .22 and lots of practice? I say you're well armed.
They are really tiny, and rimfire which is more opt to present an issue, but for those with various physical limitations a good .22 and lots of practice? I say you're well armed.
TempestP226
Member
I agree....you have a good point. And I think I will sit down and reconsider my options. My choice of bird shot wasn't so much out of concern of wall penetration (there's no one else in my home I need worry about hitting). It was mostly a matter of putting as many little nasty destructive bits of lead into an intruder as possible (any surgeon's nightmare I'm sure). While the intent of using deadly force against an intruder is to stop said threat....for me, it is to do so permanently.
I realize that my opinion on the matter may not be widely accepted, or regarded as being particularly high class or ethical. Being forced to fire on someone is a horrible thing, no doubt. As I see it, if someone is going to put me in that position, they will pay the ultimate price...not win a free trip to the ER and three squares a day for 20 to life on my dime. But this is just the armchair opinion of someone who has yet to, and hopefully never will, encounter such a situation.
I realize that my opinion on the matter may not be widely accepted, or regarded as being particularly high class or ethical. Being forced to fire on someone is a horrible thing, no doubt. As I see it, if someone is going to put me in that position, they will pay the ultimate price...not win a free trip to the ER and three squares a day for 20 to life on my dime. But this is just the armchair opinion of someone who has yet to, and hopefully never will, encounter such a situation.
BlindJustice
Member
Man, if price is not an issue and you want revolvers
Smith & Wesson - quality and great customer service
I'll go read the thread and see where you're & the tthread
is at....
Randall
Smith & Wesson - quality and great customer service
I'll go read the thread and see where you're & the tthread
is at....
Randall
BlindJustice
Member
Strpar I hope you take +Grodin's posts to heart
If you're set on Revolvers
Question: IN order to get your CPLs were you required to take
a written exam / a basic course orr a defensive handgun course?
* I'd recommend the above with NRA qual'd instructors - they'll
go ofer a lot of stuff besides weapons, and also cover the various tyhpes
of revolers and semi-atuomatic platforms and different cartridge cjhoices.
Smith & Wesson make the best DA/SA Revolvers
there are many in their small J-frame line which are great carry
revolvers. they can vary from light with alloy frame and cyllinder
to all steel - 11 oz to 25 oz. be aware the lighter the more felt
recoil most will be chambered in 38 SPecial +P SOme in .357 Magnum
NOte: I have a S&W MOdel 60 in .357 Magnum but for personal HD/SD
for more controllability I carry it with .38 SPecial +P with quality Hollow POints - the Magnum powd burns slower and a short barrel can spew out
unbruned powder and it will then burn in the air = bright muzzle flash
THe 38 SPecial +P is more controllable which will aid you in practice
sessions to build confidence and less recoil means a quicker recovery
if/when the 2nd shot 3rd shot may be needed.
oh, and S&W is offering a $50 rebate for a new J-frame purchase right now.
and get a quality belt to support the holster and gun
you might consider a pair of like J-frames in .38 SPecial +P
along with a medium frame 4" Bbl. revolver for both of you to
fire and have at home near the shotgun.or bed stand.
ping me off llist for a link to S&W revolvers.
started wtih my first handgun in '65 and it was a quality S&W
Randall
If you're set on Revolvers
Question: IN order to get your CPLs were you required to take
a written exam / a basic course orr a defensive handgun course?
* I'd recommend the above with NRA qual'd instructors - they'll
go ofer a lot of stuff besides weapons, and also cover the various tyhpes
of revolers and semi-atuomatic platforms and different cartridge cjhoices.
Smith & Wesson make the best DA/SA Revolvers
there are many in their small J-frame line which are great carry
revolvers. they can vary from light with alloy frame and cyllinder
to all steel - 11 oz to 25 oz. be aware the lighter the more felt
recoil most will be chambered in 38 SPecial +P SOme in .357 Magnum
NOte: I have a S&W MOdel 60 in .357 Magnum but for personal HD/SD
for more controllability I carry it with .38 SPecial +P with quality Hollow POints - the Magnum powd burns slower and a short barrel can spew out
unbruned powder and it will then burn in the air = bright muzzle flash
THe 38 SPecial +P is more controllable which will aid you in practice
sessions to build confidence and less recoil means a quicker recovery
if/when the 2nd shot 3rd shot may be needed.
oh, and S&W is offering a $50 rebate for a new J-frame purchase right now.
and get a quality belt to support the holster and gun
you might consider a pair of like J-frames in .38 SPecial +P
along with a medium frame 4" Bbl. revolver for both of you to
fire and have at home near the shotgun.or bed stand.
ping me off llist for a link to S&W revolvers.
started wtih my first handgun in '65 and it was a quality S&W
Randall
macadore
Member
He has only posted 3 times.
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macadore
Member
Since you are from Roxbury CT I'm not going preach to you or treat you like you wear no shoes. The Smith & Wesson 4513 is perfect blend of power size and weight. The ultimate version (Corvette of Chevy if you will) is called 4563 CQB (match grade barrel, barrel bushing spring loaded de-cocker,.....). If .45Auto is too much there are 9x19 and .40S&W equivalents available. This is no "Mickey Mouse" professional grade equipment.
Since you said money is no object.... there is always German made to order hand finished and assembled Korth pistol (Korth USA). The Korth is to pistol what Rolls Royce is to an automobile or Patek Philippe is to timepiece.....there should be no disappointment. Most will only see one in pictures.
Since you said money is no object.... there is always German made to order hand finished and assembled Korth pistol (Korth USA). The Korth is to pistol what Rolls Royce is to an automobile or Patek Philippe is to timepiece.....there should be no disappointment. Most will only see one in pictures.
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content
Member
Hello friends and neighbors // Welcome to THR. Rent or borrow as many likely canidates as you can and see which one works the best for you naturally. You might need to purchase two handguns, one for each of you to find that natural fit.
I like revolvers and my EDC is a S&W 442 1 7/8" .38 or a Dan Wesson 15-2 .357 set up as a snubbie. I'm 6'4" 250 lbs so the 442 disappears IWB and I can carry it almost anywhere.
Either of these would do fine and as MINO a Dan Wesson .357/.38 pistol pack might be just what you need.
If I had to go with one handgun for both of you as SD/HD it would be the S&W model 60 with a 3" barrel or a Ruger SP 101, 3" in .357.
If your wife does not like the hand slap of the .357 she can use .38.
The only semi autos I have experience carrying are the CZ75B and the CZ2075RAMI, both in .40s&w. They make a heavy combo but share mags(10 round and up) and are both reliable. The 75B a shade more reliable than the RAMI.
If you can handle the weight it is hard to beat a CZ75B, .40s&w, 12+1 with two extra mags weak side balancing out the weight.
Good luck finding what works for you.
I like revolvers and my EDC is a S&W 442 1 7/8" .38 or a Dan Wesson 15-2 .357 set up as a snubbie. I'm 6'4" 250 lbs so the 442 disappears IWB and I can carry it almost anywhere.
Either of these would do fine and as MINO a Dan Wesson .357/.38 pistol pack might be just what you need.
If I had to go with one handgun for both of you as SD/HD it would be the S&W model 60 with a 3" barrel or a Ruger SP 101, 3" in .357.
If your wife does not like the hand slap of the .357 she can use .38.
The only semi autos I have experience carrying are the CZ75B and the CZ2075RAMI, both in .40s&w. They make a heavy combo but share mags(10 round and up) and are both reliable. The 75B a shade more reliable than the RAMI.
If you can handle the weight it is hard to beat a CZ75B, .40s&w, 12+1 with two extra mags weak side balancing out the weight.
Good luck finding what works for you.
BlindJustice
Member
+1 content
I have a MOdel 60 .357 3" Bbl. this is I believe top of the line in
the SMall J-frames S&W offers. It is one of the few offered with
an adjustable rear sight and is made of all ( barrel, frame and
cylinder ) stainless steel construction so it's the heaviest of the J-frames
but still just 24 oz. empty. The J-frame in the late 90s was beefed up
for .357 Magnum and the frame area forward of the cylinder is
longer and more robust It is a Double Action (DA) or SIngle Action (SA)
revolver. IN DA mode pullling the trigger draws back the hammer
until it falls forward firing the gun. SA mode the operator cocks the
hammer and the trigger [ull and weight is much less - SA mode is good
for longer range shots or just precise practice working up to DA mode.
DOuble Action trigger work - smooth is th rule The other Model 60s
have a 2 1/8" Bbl. length There's also a Model 60LS in 2 1/8"Bbl. length
which is identical to the regular 60 but LS = Lady Smith
the grips are shaped for the narrower palm/shorter fingers women have.
Perhaps a MOdel 60 3" Bbl.
and a model 60LS
You could have common speedloaders - Safariland makes a speedloader
for the 5 shot J-frame that hold the cartrdges, and you line them up
with the cylinder and a push button releases them for a reload.
I carry SPeer .38 +P 125 gr. Gold Dot JHPs for my 60 - they are
rated at 1,100 FPS - just under the speed of sound. I've shot the
ocaissional cylinder full of full power .357 Mag which is around 1,500
feet per second - Same SPeer 125 gr. GDJHP and frankly one cylinder
full and my hand is a bit abused to say nothing of the 2+ feet of
muzzle blast ( fire it in the dark and it'll momentarily blind yah ) as well
as the Sonic Boom shock wave FYI at sea level the speed of sound is
approx. 1,120 fps.
I'd recommend a larger revolver to pair with the shotgun for home Defense
perhaps a S&W MOdel 10 - the newest Model 10s have a heavy 4" Bbl.
and larger grips than previos iterations of the old classic medium frame.
contents option for the CZ75B in .40 S&W could also be the home weapon
or a standard CZ 75B in9m LUger ( I have one and it's very relieable, accurate easy to clean ) and the 9mm luger is available and cheap for
PRactice Practice Practice.
Randall
I have a MOdel 60 .357 3" Bbl. this is I believe top of the line in
the SMall J-frames S&W offers. It is one of the few offered with
an adjustable rear sight and is made of all ( barrel, frame and
cylinder ) stainless steel construction so it's the heaviest of the J-frames
but still just 24 oz. empty. The J-frame in the late 90s was beefed up
for .357 Magnum and the frame area forward of the cylinder is
longer and more robust It is a Double Action (DA) or SIngle Action (SA)
revolver. IN DA mode pullling the trigger draws back the hammer
until it falls forward firing the gun. SA mode the operator cocks the
hammer and the trigger [ull and weight is much less - SA mode is good
for longer range shots or just precise practice working up to DA mode.
DOuble Action trigger work - smooth is th rule The other Model 60s
have a 2 1/8" Bbl. length There's also a Model 60LS in 2 1/8"Bbl. length
which is identical to the regular 60 but LS = Lady Smith
the grips are shaped for the narrower palm/shorter fingers women have.
Perhaps a MOdel 60 3" Bbl.
and a model 60LS
You could have common speedloaders - Safariland makes a speedloader
for the 5 shot J-frame that hold the cartrdges, and you line them up
with the cylinder and a push button releases them for a reload.
I carry SPeer .38 +P 125 gr. Gold Dot JHPs for my 60 - they are
rated at 1,100 FPS - just under the speed of sound. I've shot the
ocaissional cylinder full of full power .357 Mag which is around 1,500
feet per second - Same SPeer 125 gr. GDJHP and frankly one cylinder
full and my hand is a bit abused to say nothing of the 2+ feet of
muzzle blast ( fire it in the dark and it'll momentarily blind yah ) as well
as the Sonic Boom shock wave FYI at sea level the speed of sound is
approx. 1,120 fps.
I'd recommend a larger revolver to pair with the shotgun for home Defense
perhaps a S&W MOdel 10 - the newest Model 10s have a heavy 4" Bbl.
and larger grips than previos iterations of the old classic medium frame.
contents option for the CZ75B in .40 S&W could also be the home weapon
or a standard CZ 75B in9m LUger ( I have one and it's very relieable, accurate easy to clean ) and the 9mm luger is available and cheap for
PRactice Practice Practice.
Randall
Guillermo
member
I too am in that camp
Sgt.Murtaugh
Member
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2010
- Messages
- 245
Please do not waste your money or bet your life on a Taurus. The Judge can be fun if it were used as a trail gun or something, but it should not be used as a carry/HD gun, imo.
Get yourself a Ruger GP 100 or S&W 686 for home defense if you are set on a revolver.
if you are going to carry, get an LCR .357 or a Bodyguard .38spl
If you want a semi-auto, Springfield XD or Glock is always a good route.
Get yourself a Ruger GP 100 or S&W 686 for home defense if you are set on a revolver.
if you are going to carry, get an LCR .357 or a Bodyguard .38spl
If you want a semi-auto, Springfield XD or Glock is always a good route.
BlindJustice
Member
Another S&W Revolver Option non-small J-frame
for carry.
S&W Nightguard Series - despite different materials these are
Matte Black overall finish
Pachmayr Rubber grips - soaks up recoil
Fixed Notch Rear ( from Cyl. & SLide called Extreme Duty )
Ramp Front with Night sight DOt
2.5" two-piece Barrel
Stainless Steel Cylinder for strength
Scandium alloy frame - reduces weight
Medium K-Frame
315 NG 6 shot .38 Special +P
Medium L-Frame
386 NG 7 SHot .357 Magnum
396 NG 5 shot 44 Special
Large N-frame
310 NG 6 shot 10mm AUto
327 NG 8 SHot 357 Mag
329 NG 6 Shot 44 Mag
325 NG 6 shot .45 ACP w/Moon CLips
or .45 Auto RIm
My pref. would be 325 NG #1
efficient cartridge for the 2.5" Bbl.
and quick reloads with moon clips
#2 315 NG K-frame - sweet double action
I'd put the 44 mag last
Get a high ride fbi cant strong side holster
R-
for carry.
S&W Nightguard Series - despite different materials these are
Matte Black overall finish
Pachmayr Rubber grips - soaks up recoil
Fixed Notch Rear ( from Cyl. & SLide called Extreme Duty )
Ramp Front with Night sight DOt
2.5" two-piece Barrel
Stainless Steel Cylinder for strength
Scandium alloy frame - reduces weight
Medium K-Frame
315 NG 6 shot .38 Special +P
Medium L-Frame
386 NG 7 SHot .357 Magnum
396 NG 5 shot 44 Special
Large N-frame
310 NG 6 shot 10mm AUto
327 NG 8 SHot 357 Mag
329 NG 6 Shot 44 Mag
325 NG 6 shot .45 ACP w/Moon CLips
or .45 Auto RIm
My pref. would be 325 NG #1
efficient cartridge for the 2.5" Bbl.
and quick reloads with moon clips
#2 315 NG K-frame - sweet double action
I'd put the 44 mag last
Get a high ride fbi cant strong side holster
R-
I love revolvers but was talking this over with an ex-GF the other day and she doesn't like revolvers. She didn't tell me this while we were dating, but the reason she chose a semi-auto for her first gun was because she couldn't pull the trigger on a stock DA revolver and keep anything resembling accuracy. Although you often see a revolver suggested for the simplicity, this is evidence that it's not always the best choice.
Also, consider this.
You load a DA revolver, you pick it up, you pull the trigger, it fires.
With the addition of the magazine release, there are many DA only semi-auto handguns that operate about the same way but hold two or three times as much ammunition as most revolvers.
I love my revolvers as much as the next guy, but there is a lot to be said for a good semi-auto handgun.
For carry and HD use, I'd probably choose something SIG P-225/228 or Glock 19 sized, or maybe a S&W M&P Compact.
Also, consider this.
You load a DA revolver, you pick it up, you pull the trigger, it fires.
With the addition of the magazine release, there are many DA only semi-auto handguns that operate about the same way but hold two or three times as much ammunition as most revolvers.
I love my revolvers as much as the next guy, but there is a lot to be said for a good semi-auto handgun.
For carry and HD use, I'd probably choose something SIG P-225/228 or Glock 19 sized, or maybe a S&W M&P Compact.
BlindJustice
Member
I think it's time to wait for a reesponse from the O.P.
only 3 posts total
R- FWIW - my carry weapon is a full size 1911 but w/o
knowing the O.P.'s experience and the couple's physical size
etc. not enough to go on for reommending a carry handgun.
R-
only 3 posts total
R- FWIW - my carry weapon is a full size 1911 but w/o
knowing the O.P.'s experience and the couple's physical size
etc. not enough to go on for reommending a carry handgun.
R-
Wolfeye
Member
strpar,
Not knowing your or your wife's level of experience, I'd first recommend taking a firearms course that deals with home defense and/or concealed carry. There are many issues to consider that go beyond what most people learn by growing up with guns or by taking a general safety course. (No offense intended - just covering the bases here.)
That shotgun's a very good primary piece. They take less training & practice to use effectively, plus with the right ammo they're pretty safe for home defense. Unless you're already familiar with automatic handguns, I'd recommend a revolver as your first home-defense gun. (You'll probably own several guns throughout the years to fit your experience & tastes.) Something medium-sized with a 4" barrel is ideal, such as the Smith & Wesson model 686 or Ruger GP100. I think it's best to stick with .38 special+p unless you live on a large piece of land with lots of trees; larger cartridges like .357 magnum or .44 magnum can over penetrate.
Concealed-carry pieces should be small & light, otherwise you'll leave them at home. They will have some compromised performance compared to a home-defense gun, so they're harder to pick. Sometimes they will be more awkward to load, will have small grips, or will be harder to aim past a few yards. That said, they're fun... I'd recommend a Smith & Wesson model 642 or Ruger LCR. Charter Arms also has a wide variety of concealable revolvers and might be worth checking out.
Also, don't pick a handgun for your wife. I was guilty of trying that once. She should choose what she finds comfortable & can shoot with confidence.
Not knowing your or your wife's level of experience, I'd first recommend taking a firearms course that deals with home defense and/or concealed carry. There are many issues to consider that go beyond what most people learn by growing up with guns or by taking a general safety course. (No offense intended - just covering the bases here.)
That shotgun's a very good primary piece. They take less training & practice to use effectively, plus with the right ammo they're pretty safe for home defense. Unless you're already familiar with automatic handguns, I'd recommend a revolver as your first home-defense gun. (You'll probably own several guns throughout the years to fit your experience & tastes.) Something medium-sized with a 4" barrel is ideal, such as the Smith & Wesson model 686 or Ruger GP100. I think it's best to stick with .38 special+p unless you live on a large piece of land with lots of trees; larger cartridges like .357 magnum or .44 magnum can over penetrate.
Concealed-carry pieces should be small & light, otherwise you'll leave them at home. They will have some compromised performance compared to a home-defense gun, so they're harder to pick. Sometimes they will be more awkward to load, will have small grips, or will be harder to aim past a few yards. That said, they're fun... I'd recommend a Smith & Wesson model 642 or Ruger LCR. Charter Arms also has a wide variety of concealable revolvers and might be worth checking out.
Also, don't pick a handgun for your wife. I was guilty of trying that once.
She should choose what she finds comfortable & can shoot with confidence.
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76shuvlinoff
Member
The choice in this house as far as standing ready for HD.
870 12 ga, Kimber fullsize .45, ...and just to have options a Marlin .357 carbine.
870 12 ga, Kimber fullsize .45, ...and just to have options a Marlin .357 carbine.
mljdeckard
Member
I very much agree with Girodin. Alternating loads is presumptuous at best. Alternating loads and telling everyone in Internetland that you intend to inflict pain and blood loss, rather than stopping the actions of an attacker is a TERRIBLE idea.
I agree about the Judge. it MIGHT have a place for SOME people as a dedicated car gun, but pretty much only with the new defensive loads that have been made for it. You are better off using .45 LC loads than .410 birdshot loads in it.
I have no problem using a 20 ga for HD, I have no idea how easy it is to find buck shot or slug loads for it, I've never looked. If it was me, I would make friends with a guy who loads 20 ga, and pay him to make me a case of 20 ga #4 buck. A friend of mine just got his wife a short PGO 20 ga. I told him, it's not bad at all if she is willing to put some practice into it. (Which she is.)
My primary is an 870 12 ga, my backup, and my wife's primary is an M-1 carbine. If it came down to handguns, it would be my full-size Kimber.
I agree about the Judge. it MIGHT have a place for SOME people as a dedicated car gun, but pretty much only with the new defensive loads that have been made for it. You are better off using .45 LC loads than .410 birdshot loads in it.
I have no problem using a 20 ga for HD, I have no idea how easy it is to find buck shot or slug loads for it, I've never looked. If it was me, I would make friends with a guy who loads 20 ga, and pay him to make me a case of 20 ga #4 buck. A friend of mine just got his wife a short PGO 20 ga. I told him, it's not bad at all if she is willing to put some practice into it. (Which she is.)
My primary is an 870 12 ga, my backup, and my wife's primary is an M-1 carbine. If it came down to handguns, it would be my full-size Kimber.
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