If you had asked last week, I would have told you it was too easy to worry about.
I've done three sets, the first two were so easy I barely remember getting the factory front off, a small hammer and punch, a steady hold with support, and they popped right out. The T-S one went in really easy, it is designed to expand into the slot with a setscrew and cut in the sight's base. (hard to describe, obvious if you have it in your hand). The rear sights are trivial, the only thing to worry about is to NOT over-tighten them in the receiver, you run the risk of stripping out the holes (really bad) or shoving the screws into the bolt's travel (not so bad, test and add a spacer if it happens). I wouldn't loctite anything until you have a feel for the sights, myself ... be aware that things will loosen up over time if you skip the loctite altogether, because you do NOT want to torque anything in beyond the two-fingers-on-allen-key level.
Just yesterday I was installing a set onto an international model (carbine action/barrel, nicer finish, mannlicher stock) and that front sight just. would. not. come. out. ... after much cursing, an attempt to construct a sight pusher out of a vise and magnets*, penetrating oil, damaging a brass punch, hitting my thumb, and generally getting pretty steamed about the whole deal ... I took a break, calmed down, and came back with a bigger hammer and a steel punch. Two good whacks and it was free, I went back to brass hammer/punch to get it the rest of the way out. In the end I have some brass marks on the barrel side of the dovetail, and the Ruger sight has a ding in the side ... it wasn't quite smooth underneath, I think it was dragging and/or cocked in there. The T-S front sight tower went in with just a bit of tapping (previous ones slid in) and everything is good now, the new sight even covers up the brass marks. I'd suspected that the rear sight was a bit cocked from day one with the Intl model ... now I'm guessing that the barrel wasn't clamped quite right at the moment of milling the two dovetails, plus a burr on the front locking it in.
* (didn't work, might think more on the concept though ... it almost worked, maybe I need to magnetize smaller blocks?)
Summary:
With a good support and a hammer/punch, you can do it, it isn't rocket surgery, but it might take some force. Don't bend the barrel, be ready for some frustration, and have a helper. This is NOT a gunsmith job, you CAN do it, and it is worth it, and the instructions/tools in the kit will cover everything but the bonkin' tools.
Don't forget to get the adjustment tools, they make things really easy. You'll want the cylindrical one for sure, and the flat wrench gadget if you get the rear elevation adjustment.