1911 slide release question

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Dimis

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I noticed today at the range that if i put a new mag in briskly it will send the slide home

its a Taurus PT1911B-1 with probably 1500-2000 rounds through it at this point

am I being too rough with mag changes or is something worn out?

If I dont slam the mag in it stays put but if i give it any oomph it releases the slide
 
thanks blay

and THR is so cluttered searching sometimes is more frustrating than just blatently asking a repeated question
 
hmmm problem not solved...

ive checked the slide stop and it is making proper contact with the slide
the plunger also seems to have more than enough retention
the rounds are not interfering in any way that i can tell
and the magazine "activator" lip is not missshaped broken or otherwise bad

now the interesting thing is i loaded one round in varying my force from slow and easy to fast and hard and it didnt do a thing out of normal 1911 operation
I then loaded a full mag and tried again varying force from light to full on slam

it only happens with a full mag being slammed in but from what I can tell there is no interference from the round itself or the mag follower or body

is it possible that the way I load the mag has enough enertia to release the slide?

I have double and triple checked everything from the previous thread and it all seams fine

what am I missing?

RC Model thats your cue lol

P.S. the unanswered question from the other thread was something about a dimple in the slide stop where the plunger contacts it..
my 1911 does not have this dimple either...
is this enough to detract from the retention and allow this to happen?
 
is it possible that the way I load the mag has enough enertia to release the slide?

This would be my guess but I have never run into this problem.

PM 1911Tuner on here, he is a guru on these things.
 
I agree the fully loaded mag weight is just hitting harder when you slam it in and jarring the slide stop out of engagement.

Dempling the slide release slightly is the best way to fix it forever.

They sell a special drill that goes in through the spring tunnel to do it.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7665/Product/1911_AUTO_DETENT_SPOTTING_DRILL

But I do them with a tiny carbide dental bur in a Dremel.

You need to color the back of the slide stop with a magic marker, then operate it several times to show where the detent pin rubs on it.

Then just put a very tiny dimple right where the bottom of the rub mark ends.

rc
 
If you're using the slide stop as a slide release you may be wearing either the notch or the slide stop to an angle that isn't square enough to each other to hold. This can easily happen if they are of very different hardness.

If this is the case you may have to adjust the angle on the slide stop very, very slightly. A little will go a loooong way.

While I personally use it as a slide release on occasion, I normally use a sling shot method. I've noticed when Ransom testing that if I use the slide stop as a slide release, my first shot is further out of the group than if I sling shot it.

FWIW
 
thanks RC ill see how it goes and let you know

Stork I always slingshot its habit from training to manipulate the slide by hand and not rely on a slide "release" for all motions needed

I have also checked for wear and have not found any and the angles match up as close as a taurus would allow (still within operable specs)
 
If you're using the slide stop as a slide release you may be wearing either the notch or the slide stop to an angle that isn't square enough to each other to hold. This can easily happen if they are of very different hardness.
Speaking from my own decades of experience using this method; I don't think a problem developes from this practice...This subject comes up at times and unless there is some valid repetitive test (like in Gun Tests) to verify it; no consensus....
 
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