Copper fouling+Flitz+bristle brush=good?

Try some foaming bore cleaner/copper solvent or butch's bore shine. apply, let it sit 10-20 min, wipe out. Repeat until patches stop turning blue (probably 23,424 applications).

Hoppe's Benchrest works for me. I know copper is coming out, because the patches turn green.

Can I put a generous helping of Flitz on my bristle brush

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I vote for copper solvent too.

But if you have to try the Flitz, wrap a cleaning patch tightly around the brush, then put the Flitz on the patch.
Or better yet, use a .30 cal Jag with a patch for best bore fit.

It will give you much better bore contact then just the brush & patch alone.

rc

Attention: Mr. Fox

You will not need a large amount of flitz on the brush--just a dab, but rub it into the bristles & get busy !!!! After cleaning out the blackened polish, put the jag tip on the rod with a patch, & a few drops of your favorite liquid auto wax. Make several passes through the bore, let dry to a haze, & then buff with clean patches.

The Flitz info says it will remove copper fouling. I would use JB Bore Scrubber from Brownells. Use the Flitz to protect the bore when clean.

Only on The High Road would someone recommend using auto wax on a gun bore!

The JB's is good stuff, and cleans copper out well. Any of the commercial copper solvents work too. One of the strongest is Sweets 7.62. If your rod has any brass on it though, including the jag, the Sweets will react with it and make you think you're getting copper out when you really aren't. You can tell usually which is which, but it's something to keep in mind.

Also some people will tell you that the strong ammonia based cleaners like Sweets will rust your bore. They will not. Leaving a clean bore with no oil in it will rust it, which can happen quickly with Sweets and others since they strip the oil away and leave water in its place. So run a few patches through with CLP when you're done.

Mr. Jester:

Your comment regarding my use of liquid carnuba auto wax on firearms, was your intent an "atta-boy" or a "i can't believe someone would say something that stupid on this website" because i can assume either. If that is a "dis" directed at what i said, then you are in direct violation of forum rules---no personal attacks !!!!

1. Clean metal surfaces on the outside & inside with flitz / maas polish.
2. Apply the liquid auto polish "carnuba clear coat safe" to the same surfaces.
3. Let dry to a haze & then buff with a soft rag.

It is a 2-step process, but the results are outstanding. During the 1990's brownell's tried my technique & printed it in one of their volumes of the "gunsmith kinks" !!!!!! If you have not accomplished something in equal, then keep any negative comments to yourself.

Yes, I did intend it negatively. Not a dis at you personally, but certainly against the method. Discussing methods and techniques, pro and con, is within the forum rules. Are you not able to handle someone disagreeing with you without getting huffy?

On the topic though, my question would be why? When CLP works as well as it does, why use auto wax that will take longer to apply and won't be any better? What results exactly are you referring to? Bore didn't rust? Accuracy improved? Bore wear improved? All of those are available with CLP with a much simpler application.

I also use liquid car wax on many of my guns and stocks. It is superior to clp in many ways. For one thing you can handle a gun sealed with wax and leave no fingerprints or signs of handling whatsoever. No more wiping fingerprints like with oil. Really for any shiny finish wax is much better IMO. Could you imagine using clp on a chrome car bumper? Same concept IMO. And wax is really no more difficult. Wipe on and wipe off the excess just like the dust attracting clp.

If you choose to wax your weapon's metal and wood, Johnsons paste wax usually does a better job than a car wax. I use it on the outside of my blue weapons. It does a great job of sealing to prevent rust.

The NRA museum uses Renaissance Wax
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Wax

Ammonia-based solvent is all that is needed to remove copper fouling from the bore.

Some rifles develop a "carbon ring" ahead of the throat.
Some shooters use JB Bore paste to knock the carbon ring out.

If you choose to wax your weapon's metal and wood, Johnsons paste wax usually does a better job than a car wax. I use it on the outside of my blue weapons. It does a great job of sealing to prevent rust.

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That hasn't been my experience. Johnson's and Renaissance Microcrystalline wax don't get as hard or durable as the Meguiars car wax I use. Johnsons especially. I've run corrosions tests with saltwater on bare steel and all the waxes I've tested faired about the same...average. The real advantage to them is longevity of protection and lack of smudging or fingerprinting. For storage there is nothing better IME.

I thought Johnson's wax was a weird idea, until I learned that a 50/50 mix of beeswax and Johnson's was an old time formula for bullet lube (for cast lead rifle bullets) for decades until they started using Alox.

But waxes are not cleaners. First you gotta clean that bore.

Flitz polish helps, but it's a polish rather than a true copper remover. Only a real copper remover made for a gun bore will get the stuff in the corners of the rifling and deep in the pores. Look at Barnes CR10, Montana Extreme, Sweets 7.62, and other true copper removers. Note: These same solvent manufacturers also make bore cleaners that don't remove copper as you discovered with Hoppe's, be sure to get real copper remover. Just because it says 'copper' on the label in tiny print doesn't mean it is a real copper remover.

When you use a real copper remover, you will be shocked at the navy blue stuff that comes out on the patch. Not sky blue, but deep navy blue. That's copper being removed.


What kind of rifle is it? How old?