Are Winchester Primers junk?

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i have not had any malfunctions with any of the winchester primers that i have used (and that is the only kind of primers i have used so far).
 
Primers not the problem.

So many other variables involved here:
1. Primer seating?
2. Excessive head space/too tight of taper crimp.
3. Dirty/binding firing pin channel.
4. Weak striker springs.

As stated, it is next to impossible to "Deaden" any currently produced primer.:rolleyes:
 
Funshooter45,

I just need to give my $0.02 regarding CCI BR primers. I worked for ATK (people who own CCI/Speer) for a long time. Furthermore, I worked in the Primer Department. Now, that "technician" was probably pretty close with his 1 in 3 million estimate, he is a little off-base in his comments concerning Bench Rest primers (at least CCI's BR primers). Judging by his "3 instead of 2" comment, he has no idea of how the primer production process works. People don't "watch the assembly line." The line workers in that department work like crazy. Most of the processes are manual (most of the process is "hands-on"). People don't watch machines, they are running multiple shakers, transfering plates, inspecting. The people who make CCI primers are very skilled individuals. Machines don't do the work. Even the packaging is done manually (no robots). I just needed to clarify that, therefore giving credit to the folks who work there. They make a great product and deserve the credit for the work they do.

Without getting way too detailed (thus, cofusion), the main differnce between standard primers and BR's is the tighter tolerances and tighter specs. The amount of "primer mix" is more consistent from one primer to the next. They actually weigh samples of mix at determined intervals, which is how they know the amount of mix being put into the primer cups. Furthermore, the OAH specs of the finished product are tighter and less "rangy."

Now, this is not to say that standard CCI primers are not of good quality. They are AMAZINGLY consistent. However, BR's are even more so.

For what it's worth...
 
It's not the XD. I recently fired 200 rounds through it with no failures of any kind. I've had .882 casings fire ok...maybe it is seating depth? How deep do you seat WLPs? I've had mine around .003. I'm guessing these are sensitive to seating depth?
 
It's not the XD. I recently fired 200 rounds through it with no failures of any kind. I've had .882 casings fire ok...maybe it is seating depth? How deep do you seat WLPs? I've had mine around .003. I'm guessing these are sensitive to seating depth?

Seat them deep enough to allow you to feel the anvil bottom out against the fire wall. For that you'll need a hand tool. I like Hornady. It is made better than the others and feels better when you seat the primers. This offers better sensitivity, allowing you to feel the primer bottom out.

The most sensitive tool is made by Sinclair, however it is pretty slow to use cuz it's a single-shot.
 
suggest you clean out the firing pin channel and try again. can't hurt and may fix the FTF's.

murf
 
My XD-.45, which is one of six XD's that I own, fires everything put through it. It's fired CCI, Remington, Winchester and Federal primers, and never skipped a beat.

I didn't go back and read all the posts in the thread, but I was wondering if you were having problems with one brand of brass?

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I checked after it was suggested...no commonality between the casings. Some are Speer, others are Winchester, others are Feds. I seated the HECK outta the primers (to the point of some deformation) and got 100% reliability when firing the prime cases only. They were already below flush to the touch...looks like they needed to go even deeper. I'll go ahead and load some cartridges with the primers seated even deeper and report back. Thanks for all the help, friends!
 
okay I've tried seating these flush, and .001 through .005. May not be junk but they are still way too touchy my taste. I'm switching to cci.
 
Maybe that makes me the exception...the fact remains they had their chance. If I AM the exception, they won't miss my business.
 
The measured seating depths you keep referring to are not really important. The primer needs to be seated 'fully' engaging the anvil. A smooth, long pull on the press handle until it bottoms out 'firmly'. Make sure the primer cup, primer hole and shell holder are clean.

The practice of some to 'restrike' the primer is an attempt to hammer the primer to where it's supposed to be using the firing pin as the hammer.
 
I've loaded thougsands of rounds with all varieties of Winchester primers without any problems that weren't my fault. What gun are they giving you problems with? And just in case you haven already done so, make sure you are seating them below the head about .001". A lot of failed ignition is from the primer being too shallow. When they are not completely in the primer pocket, and the energy from the firing pin strike will be diverted to seating the primer the rest of the way, rather than creating a deep enough dent. In most cases the primer will detonate on the second try, which is a good indication of not having been seated deep enough. But other things could be going on too. You may have a F.P. spring that need replacing or tightening, or your F.P. may need replacing. I had one that was chipped in just the right manner that I didn't see it until I measures it and then looked at it under a magnifying glass. I was doubtful at first because it approx. only .002" too short, but when I replaced it, the problem was solved.
 
Are you saying that you went from flush up to .005" above the primer pocket? If that is so then that is your cause. It can probably be better explained by others here, but the fact is you must seat those below below the head, around -.001" below or until you feel it bottom out, if you are seating by touch, but be sure they are below the case head.
 
I have used inchester primers for ca 50 years without a single problem. Currently I use ca 10,000 to 15,000 Winchester primers anually. I suspect the problem is with the seating of the primer in the case.
 
While I would consider myself a relative newb to reloading (only a couple years), I have loaded a few thousand .45ACP, and over a thousand .44Magnum rounds both hot and mild, and have used WLP primers exclusively. I have never had a round not go bang. I like them because at the time they were cheap and work for both normal and magnum loads. Walmart used to carry them for $25 a brick, but now they only sell the CCI 300s which I haven't tried yet, but bought a brick anyway.
 
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