sticky python

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tedcaster

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After putting about 100 rounds through a newly acquired Python the trigger would not return leaving me in an awkward situation. I now have a loaded revolver that can't be shot or emptied of live rounds! After banging it on the shooting table the trigger finally released (just kidding). I pushed the trigger forward and it released but the trigger still sticks every couple of shots.
Should I send it to Colt or is there something I could do to fix it.
 
If you have a lot of experience dealing with either Swiss mechanical watches ;) or Colt DAs, take it apart, thoroughly clean it and re-lube. If not (and this sounds more like you), remove the grips and thoroughly hose it out with Gunscrubber. Don't use brake cleaner or carb cleaner. You'll save a small amount of money, but c'mon, this is a Python, right? When dry, hose it down again with something like spray CLP or Rem Oil or equivalent, then let drip free before you put it away (the lube will run out for a while). You could accelerate that last part by spraying with the canned "air" sold to clean electronics.
 
Now that you've got Balistol on it, get some Gun Scrubber and clean it out, probably needs a good cleaning, the other guy probably gave up on the banging too ! With the Balistol on it, you've just created a place for the gunk to hang on a little longer, you need to clean it out thoroughly , THEN lube it gently, no need in it running out. Like was said earlier, its a Python, not made anymore, won't ever be made anymore, respect it, if not sell it!
 
If lubrication was the problem, a Balistol bath should have made things better if not solved the issue. If the trigger is still sticking the cause may be that the mainspring has been "adjusted" too far toward the light side, and/or taken a set. In an attempt to get the ultimate light double-action trigger pull sometimes better is taken too far.

To get the inside parts completely clean it's necessary to pop the sideplate and dismount the lockwork, but this isn't something that should be done by someone who isn't experienced and qualified to do it.

I'd suggest that you wait a bit and see if lubrication does the trick. If not, call Colt's customer service department and send it in. It may be a bit expensive, but they know what they are doing, have special tools, jigs and fixtures to do it with, and will correct any and all problems they come across. After that it should be a long time before you have to worry again. ;)
 
A sticky trigger on a Colt DA can be the result of so many problems, my head hurts thinking about it. Old Fuff's suggestion is about the best.

Jim
 
Thanks for all the good advice everyone, I really appreciate it.
It seems to be functioning correctly now. If it happens again I'll send it to Colt and have a professional give it a quality tune up. It's a really nice revolver with an Exxxxx serial number that still shoots straight.
 
Link to The Firing Line on the timing of an older Colt Trooper (with older Python type action) This is provided as some background material. It is recommended that any work performed should be done by a competent gunsmith.

How the Colt I & D Frame works:

In the Double Action mode, as the trigger is pulled rearward, the hand is raised. The finger of the rebound lever rests on the pivot pin of the hand. So, as the hand rises and engages the ratchet of the cylinder, it carries the rebound lever upward and causes the tail of the bolt to pivot upwards. Resultingly, the bolt drops, disengaging it from the cylinder and allows the cylinder to be rotated by the hand. Concurrently, the safety lever is raised (by the trigger) causing the safety to slide downwards. The trigger nose now begins to engage the sear, allowing the hammer to start its rearward motion. When the hand rotates the the cylinder 1/2 to 2/3 of the point of indexing the next chamber, the bolt tail falls off the rebound lever shelf. The bolt is then forced upwards by the bolt spring, resulting in the bolt engaging the leading notch of the cylinder. The cylinder is then arrested from further rotation by the bolt which engages the cylinder notch. The trigger nose continues to raise the sear. When this happens, the hammer is forced forward by the pressure acting upon it from the rebound lever. The mainspring supplies the pressure for the rebound lever. The hammer falls on the frame mounted and spring loaded firing pin, which strikes the primer; thereby compressing the anvil in the primer. The crushing of the anvil grinds the primer compound to 300 degrees, thereby causing ignition. The flash travels through the primer hole into the chamber of the case, igniting the propellant. The gases formed by the propellant dislodges the bullet from the case. The bullet then begins its journey which will take it from the cylinder, past the barrel cylinder gap, through the forcing cone, down the barrel and eventually out of the muzzle.

As the trigger is released, the hand begins to lower and disengages itself from the cylinder ratchet. This permits the rebound lever finger to follow the hand downwards. As the rebound lever lowers, the shelf of the rebound lever forces the bolt tail raised. The trigger nose pushes the sear inward (towards the hammer) and an audible click can be hard as the trigger disengages the sear and allows the sear to return to its position of rest. The safety lever is lowered, allowing the safety to rise. The hammer is pulled away from the firing pin by the mainspring. The bolt tail now pops back onto the shelf of the rebound lever and another audible click is heard. The trigger is now returned to its position of rest.

A word of caution on working on your own Colt I frame gun.

Some guns have parts which performs a single function. On the Colt I or D or E frame guns, a part may perform numerous functions, all of which relates to timing. Changing one part may affect the timing of several other parts. This is especially true of the Rebound Lever. So, whereas one problem may be corrected, two or three others may have been created. Also, consider the cheapest alternative first which allows for restoration to status quo ante. Bending a part as a solution which you find doesn't work may be resolved by bending it back to its original shape. Removing metal may sometimes be remedied by lengthening by peeing; the operative word is sometimes. Since Colt uses 4140 steel for its parts (on D, I and E frames), this allows for peening and shaping by filing/stoning to restore function. On a Colt, you should rarely need to replace parts. If a task appears too daunting, send it to a gunsmith.

So, with those words of advisory out of the way, let us begin by defining a common thread: definition. Unlike the cylinder stop of a S&W or Ruger revolver, the bolt on a Colt (D, I and E frame) is rather lengthy. We'll refer to the "cylinder stop" portion of the bolt as the bolt head and the opposite end which rests on the rebound lever shelf as the "tail". The actual tip of the tail will be referred to as the actuator.

With that, let's look at some ways to delay the bolt from popping up too early.

Recall from Part I how the hand raises the rebound lever and that that action causes the bolt to pivot downward and disengage from the cylinder notch. If you increase the time required for the rebound lever to rise, you delay the bolt's pop. This may be achieved by removing metal from the radius of the pivot pin of the hand. We're talking about removing metal from the top where the rebound lever finger rests on that pivot pin. The end result is that the rebound lever sits slightly lower, thereby taking more time to rise. Doing this should not affect the dropping of the bolt.

Another alternative is working on the bolt itself. As you recall, the bolt tail rests on the rebound lever shelf. If it's been bent previously such that it cants away from the rebound lever shelf. From a top view looking from the top of the gun towards the bottom of the grip, if the tail appears bent towards the solid side of the frame as opposed to the sideplate side, then the bolt tail and actuator sits more precariously on the rebound lever shelf, shortening the time it will rest on that shelf before dropping off (and allowing the bolt to pop up). The bolt may be placed in the vise and with only the tail exposed, grasp with a plier and tweak it (top view again) slightly to the left. This will increase the actuator's contact with the rebound lever shelf, thereby giving you a little more time.

Another thing we were taught was that the main spring could have been weakened, and that increasing spring tension could affect timing of the bolt.

Finally, if these measures don't work, then fitting a new bolt may be in order. Alternatively, the rebound lever may have to be replaced (and may have been the culprit all the time). If it comes to either two, I'd recommend sending it to a gunsmith or back to Colt.

A sticky return could be several things. I would eliminate the first with a thorough cleaning. If you know someone who has one of those ultrasonic cleaners, might I suggest that (as opposed to gun doctoring your own Python)? Remove the grips and the cylinder and let it soak in the ultrasound solution. A building of gunk could impede the trigger return. Alternatively, as Old Fuff suggested, it could be just a lack of lube.

The rebound lever is responsible for returning the Python's trigger to its position of rest. The hand may be stuck in the raised position. With the action open, look into the cylinder window so you can see the hand. Double action the trigger slowly to see if the hand emerges from its window and raises up (to engage the cylinder ratchet if the cylinder was closed) and after the hammer drops (you might want to place your thumb on the hammer to make its drop more gentle), that upon release of the trigger the hand retracts back into its window. Do this several times. What you're trying to establish is that the hand is moving freely and not getting stuck. A burr or bend may be causing it to bind, thereby preventing the rebound lever from lowering and returning the trigger to its position of rest. You should then check the cylinder ratchet for deformities or burrs to ensure that it is not binding the hand. You might also want to ask yourself if the trigger is sticking on any particular cylinder?

If the ratchet is fine, get a range rod and range it on all six cylinders. A bent crane will cause the cylinder to be offset, causing a perfectly good ejector rod to be off centered, thereby placing pressure on the hand and preventing the hand from retracting. BTW, this is why you don't snap a cylinder shut with a flick of the wrist. Doing so may look cool (to fools who don't know better), but a bent crane can result in a damaged revolver.

Finally, it could be the safety is binding against something. I believe I had that happen on one Python and the cause was the Latch pin. In that case, I simply replaced it and the gun was as good as new.
 
I'll note that the only gun I've ever had seize up in 45 years of gun ownership was a Python. The oil inside turned to lacquer and locked it up solid. If the Ballistol got it ticking, you're probably fine. I would not say that sending it back to Colt is needed.
 
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