AR-15 maintenance

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If I had to use automotive products for gun lube I'd try to score ATF. Much closer to the correct additive package for a gun oil.

In a pinch _any_ oil is better than no oil.

BSW
 
I use Mobil 1 5W30 for my car, so picking up an extra quart at Advance Auto isn't an inconvenience. It's $5 to $7 a quart, I think, which will probably last me about a decade.

plus 1

mobil 1 is definitely an outstanding lubricant. there is no firearm that requires a liquid lubricant that has needs that cant be met and exceeded with mobil 1.

im also using 5w30.

add more life to your guns,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, with mobil 1.
 
Out of curiosity, how much would the weight of the oil matter when using mobile 1? Most people seem to just use what they use in their car, what if you used 15w50 on your gun?
 
Don't scrimp on your cleaning and lube supplies. Just buy the slip 2000, and be done with it. There, you now have what many people will tell you is the 100% best lube on the market for an AR.

As for cleaning, can't go wrong with hoppes #9. Removes carbon and copper fouling very well. It's very cheap. It won't harm anything in your rifle.

As far as how often to clean? I clean mine after every shoot. Do I have to keep it that clean? No, probably not, but I'd rather be able to pick up a clean rifle, and now it's going to shoot, then pick up a dirty one. Some people will tell you they go 1000's of rounds without cleaning, just a little lube. That's probably fine, but I like to keep my nice guns nice for as long as possible.

I'm pretty new to ARs, so take whatever I say with a grain of salt, but this is what I've gathered after reading A LOT.
 
I personally like a tube of Super-Tech Moly-Lithium grease from Walmart. It has molybdenum disulphide in it. A 14 ounce tube; Size of a tube of calk that would go in a calk gun; will last you literally your entire life, no matter how many guns you have. And it only costs about $5. Even military manuals mention using molybdenum disulphide. The only thing I use an "Oil" on is hoppe #9 in the barrel and chamber when cleaning and lube; and in the trigger assembly where I need to spray because I can't reach with the grease. However; at walmart, you can also buy some CRC White lithium grease which is a spray on. That's excellent for the trigger area and other hard to reach areas.

I have/do use remoil and CLP from time to time, but normally only out of convenience. Usually if I'm going to shoot the entire day and put 500-1000 rounds through the rifle. Then I use those every 400-500 rounds. But at home; after a good cleaning; I use the super tech moly lithium grease with molybdenum disulphide. There is nothing special about the high priced gun oils. There's every story in the book about using "Non-Expensive Gun Oils". That it will burn off of the metal; poor lubricant; etc... It's all a crock. Are there some lubricants that you shouldn't use on a gun? Of course. There's some that break down too quickly; some that are an attractant to dirt/dust; some that are actually a solvent, like WD-40. But there are plenty of lubricants that are just as good, if not better, and at a fraction of the price than some of the expensive supposed "Gun Specific" lubricants. Of course, you'll hear the: "You spent $1000 on your weapon, don't be cheap on the lubricant". "You spent $1000 on the weapon, what's another $24 for the lubricant. And these people who market it will use your ego of spending $1000+ on a weapon to convince you it's the right thing to do. And those who buy these lubricants, will refuse to admit that it's just marketing hype. Then they have to admit that they got suckered into spending $25 for something they could have had just as good or better lubrication, for $5. So they'll rationalize it.

If you really have to buy a "Gun Specific" gun lube; buy CLP or Remoil from walmart, and keep the AR15 wet. If you're willing to do some research, get a good moly-lithium grease with molybdenum disulphide. You'll buy a tube for $5-$6 and have it forever. Get a spray can of CRC or similar for the hard to reach spots. And when you want to go a thorough cleaning, gunscrubber, powder blast, etc... will break it down for easy cleaning if that's what you want.
 
I use ATF, STP, and Mobile 1 15w40 mixed evenly as a basic gun oil.

I thicken it with Mobile1 synth grease for many applications. I just mix it to suit my needs best. Different weather conditions, enviroments, and different weapon systems may require different thickness for best results.

You can use thicker or thinner oils as you see fit. I find that Ketchup is about the right thickness to prevent dripping, or flowing to the wrong spots, but it still is liquid enough to allow dirt to flow away from bearing surfaces as the gun cycles.

ATF- makes everything easy to clean and is decent rust preventative
Mobile1 15w40- oil, duh, I'll add more to thin my mix out
STP Oil additive- thick sticky stuff leaves a slick surface behind when you wipe it off
Grease- just a thickener

It's not rocket science. It just needs to:
-not evaporate too quickly whether it's on the range or on my belt

-not drip and flow to somewhere useless like the buffer tube. It needs to stay put on the BCG. Or even worse flow into the barrel!

-lube well
-leave a bit of a slick surface if it's wiped off
-not catch on fire
-not turn into poisen gas when heated

No single gun lube will suit all conditions. But you can mix one for each condition you experience. All gun lubes are nothing more than allready availble lubes mixed together anyways.

Chances are most of the name brand lubes are mixed in the basement of some small gunshop/moms basement.
 
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Out of curiosity, how much would the weight of the oil matter when using mobile 1? Most people seem to just use what they use in their car, what if you used 15w50 on your gun?
The heavier grades could be too thick for use in very cold temps, but that is about the only downside that I can see. If the gun functions fine with (synthetic) 15W50, it should be a very good lubricant.

I do prefer M1 5W30 (primarily Group IV base stocks) to 10W30 (more Group III, I think), but I doubt it makes much practical difference. They're all quite good.
 
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