What round can stop a car?

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I once observed a guy make a car coast to a halt with a SAW, but I wouldn't try to repeat it.
I would say it has to be 20mm+, but I'd have to have some cars to test to be really sure:D
 
You won't be able to take out the car very easily at all, so go for the occupant(s). Unless your vehicle is armored, the metal/plastic/glass shrapnel and bullet tumbling makes being inside a car a death trap when shots are fired.

Also note that car doors offer zero protection from even a handgun round (except possibly .22LR, which wasn't tested).

When shooting through the windshield, you'll need to adjust your aim slightly. Shooting from inside makes the bullet rise a bit higher than where you're aiming and the exact opposite effect for shooting from outside the windshield to inside. Heavier grain needs less correction.

The engine block area is about the only part of the car that will stop a bullet, everywhere else might as well be drywall.

(I went slightly off topic but I felt like sharing this information.)
 
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I believe they've created devices that can be slid under a car or placed for the car to driver over that will cause the electrical system to fail via en EMP.

They do exist, but they are large, heavy and expensive. They also don't always work; Control modules are shielded and fused, and it takes one helluva jolt to scramble the computer without making direct electrical contact.

As well, they won't work on older cars with carburetors analog electronics. Points systems are completely unaffected, and electronic ignitions will only be momentarily interrupted at worst, restarting afterward. If a manual transmission, it'd amount to no more than a backfire. Diesels with fully mechanical injection pumps also can't be shut down with EMP; Cutting the fuel is the only way.
 
My buddy shot an oncomming Iraqi Toyota (Maybe Nissan) pickup with a 25mm DU round from the Bradley's cannon. Went completely through the engine and out the back of the truck. That stopped it real quick.
 
My buddy shot an oncomming Iraqi Toyota (Maybe Nissan) pickup with a 25mm DU round from the Bradley's cannon. Went completely through the engine and out the back of the truck. That stopped it real quick.

I don't own one of those and as a civilian, odds are I wouldn't carry it around with me if I did. ;)


I was just going by controlled test results.
 
you would need to hit the crank itself or put a hole in at least 60% of the compression chambers to "stop" the engine.

your best bet would be a well placed shot at the timing gear,belt,chain or tensioner.

tough to do, but it would kill the engine instantly. and most are behind plastic or light aluminum covers, so easily penetrated.

the first would require much more than any handgun could deliver, and the last could be done with a good .22 shot.
 
As stated shoot vital running components, or if you're really meticulous, study the exact model of car, find where the freezeplugs are, try to shoot them, that in theory would be an easier way of getting into an engine block.

Go to a junk yard and buy a pos engine and try it, build a wall/bunker with a window for gun in case of ricochet, be an amateur myth buster!
 
I work for a state corrections agency that prohibits us from firing on vehicles except when they are trying to run us over. I was told in training that shooting at vehicles with our bigger weapons (.223 and 12ga) is pretty much useless. My best answer to the question would be that a large number of .30 caliber bullets out of a belt-fed machine-gun or a smaller number of .50BMG, 12.7 Russian or 14.5 Russian rounds should stop a car. I see the Libyan Rebels are using a lot of the latter. Some enterprising Army Officer should do an assessment of the effectiveness of the large number of heavy machineguns and light cannon being used in the Libyan Conflict when the war finally ends. It would make an interesting journal article.
 
http://www.theboxotruth.com/

TONS of little experiments they do. Look for The Buick Of Truth on there somewhere.

I've seen that one, love the stuff he does. We've shot up a number of different vehicles, and found similar results, although cars with more severely sloped windshilds tend to actually deflect the bullets upward, leaving a long gouge before acheiving penetration. Rifle rounds, OTOH, tended to pass through very cleanly with minimal deflection.

While these static tests paint a grim picture for the occupants of a vehicle, real-world dynamic shootings involving cars tend to produce a great many spent casings with few or no injuries. He cites that the side glass isn't much of an obstacle, which is true.......when it's struck at a perpendicular angle. But as with any hard surface, change that angle and the results change with it. We found that many bullets fired from angles of < 30* didn't actually enter the vehicle at all, even though the glass shattered.

He also touched on the fact that there are a lot of heavier components inside the doors, which they managed to missed. Well, we've done this with more vehicles, more guns and A LOT more ammo, and found that door impacts frequently do not achieve penetration into the passenger compartment, especially with handguns and small rifle rounds. Window motors are really effective bullet stoppers if you happen to hit them, and cars that have steel regulators; the steel of those arms is pretty heavy, between 14 and 10 gauge. Heavy sheetmetal like that will stop most service handgun calibers.

While I certainly wouldn't want to be in a vehicle that was getting shot up, I also wouldn't want to be trying to defend against someone who was in a car. There are just so many variables that it's virtually impossible to predict what the bullet will do and where it will end up, especially in a dynamic situation.
 
66mm and up recoiless rifle/RPG or bigger should reliably do it in 1 shot...granted its usually the only one you will have!
 
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