Just Bought A New .22 Plinker

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tpelle

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I've been thinking about a .22 LR single-action revolver for repelling those deadly tin can attacks.

I thought about the Heritage revolvers, but just can't get past their looks and the stories of lack of quality. (I understand that their big-bore revolvers are made for them by Pietta, though, and are OK.) They also have that nasty looking safety lever on the left recoil shield.

I checked out the Cimarron Plinkster, but it also has an ugly turn-bolt safety on recoil shield.

I was getting resigned to buying a Ruger Single-Six, but I prefer something with fixed sights and a more "traditional" operating system. Also I was looking for something that was "full sized" so that ruled out the Bearcat. Besides, the Ruger revolvers are a little pricey.

Looking through my copy of "Single Action Sixguns" I discovered John Taffin's comments about the EAA Bounty Hunter, which is available in a .22 LR/.22 Magnum version. Mr. Taffin seemed to think highly of them. They are built in Germany, are full-sized, have a pretty much traditional Colt 3-screw action but with a transfer-bar system that seems to be licensed from Ruger.

I ordered a six-shot 6.75" barrel version from Bud's in Lexington yesterday. I live close enough that I can drive down to pick it up. Hope to get it on Friday.

I've got a BUNCH of .22 LR ammo that won't reliably cycle my semi-autos, and on a whim I ordered a 100 rounds of CB-Longs. Hopefully the CB-Longs will be quiet enough that I can pop 'em off in my back yard without the grumpy old lady down the road complaining.
 
Just be sure you post up some GOOD pictures of the gun when it arrives. Folks have been tossed out of THR for not being quick enough to do so in the past.... :D

If it proves to be a good gun then you may have stumbled on a neglected winner. It's more costly than the rather cobbly Heritage but no where near as expensive as the Ruger Single Six.
 
I don't know much ('anything' is close) about single action; can you explain why the Ruger action is other than traditional in its operation? What's different with this one?

And Yes, photos, with focus, appropriate background, decent lighting -- we're not paying you to just sit there! ;)

timothy
 
yhtomit, New Model Rugers have a transfer bar and the loading gate releases the cylinder, allowing it to be loaded with the hammer down. Safe to carry six loaded chambers.

Colt Clones and Old Model Rugers have no transfer bar, and have to be placed on half cock to release the cylinder so you can load it. The loading gate is just that - a loading gate. It's not safe to carry all six chambers loaded, so you load 1, skip 1 and then load 4, cock the rest of the way and let the hammer down on the empty chamber you skipped.

That's it in a nutshell. I've never played with the EAA or the Heritage, but I assume they are traditional Colt clones, while the new Rugers are different.
 
OK, I am updating this thread after taking delivery of this revolver.

The revolver seems to be of very high quality construction. Without actually disassembling it, there are no visible machining marks in places such as the frame window or hammer slot that have not been polished out.

Finish is uniform, with a nice polished blue on the barrel and on both cylinders. The frame, grip strap and trigger guard, and ejector housing are finished in a sort of glossy black that very closely match the barrel and cylinder. The frame does not have a case-colored finish. The sides of the hammer are finished bright, and the hammer spur bears a nicely-done diagonal checkering pattern.

Particularly appreciated is the absence of garish roll-markings on the sides of the barrel or elsewhere on the pistol. The serial number is in the usual place on the bottom of the frame ahead of the trigger guard, and all other markings such as importer, manufacturer, caliber, and the inevitable warning to read the manual appear on the bottom of the barrel adjacent to the ejector rod housing. The rest of the pistol is refreshingly bare, except for an unobtrusive caliber marking on each cylinder.

The wooden one-piece grips are of some sort of European mystery-wood that is a kind of medium brown in color and does not show any figure in the grain. The wood is not covered with any sort of glossy varnish or polyurethane coating, but has a kind of dry feeling to it, and I expect that a few coats of BLO well rubbed in will improve its appearance greatly.

The gun was delivered from Bud's warehouse to the retail store to fulfill my order so there were no handling marks or dings, nor was there any evidence of the pistol having been dry-fired as happens sometimes with rimfire guns that have been sitting in dealer cases for a while.

There are two very minor cosmetic issues that I consider to be really insignificant:
1. The right side of the wooden grip has a small almost rectangular black mark that almost looks like someone touched the wood with the tip of a magic marker. This possibly may be just a mark in the grain - I don't know.
2. The trigger guard is provided with a small hole in it just slightly behind the tip of the trigger which is intended for a tiny padlock that is shipped with the gun. Also where this hole is punched there is a very slight distortion in the otherwise smooth trigger guard contour. I expect that this may be a feature only done to U.S.-destined revolvers.

I gave it the "magnet test" to see which parts are steel and which are of some sort of other "non-ferrous" metal. The barrel and the cylinders are both of steel. The frame, grip strap, trigger guard, and ejector housing will not attract a magnet, and I suspect that they are of aluminum.

The barrel appears to be pinned through the frame by one horizontal pin at the front of the top strap. I am unable to determine if the barrel is otherwise screwed in to the frame or if it is pressed in. The exploded-view in the manual does not show this to that level of detail.

There is a second pin that appears to run at a diagonal through the frame that secures the ejector housing in the frame. The front of the ejector housing is held to the barrel with a screw, as is common practice.

The action is what I will describe as a three-click action - there being no safety notch before the half-cock notch when cocking the hammer. There is a click at half-cock, a click when the bolt drops off of the hammer cam, and a final click (really two clicks that occur almost simultaneously) as the bolt then drops into the locking notch and the hammer reaches full-cock. The timing of the bolt is good, as the bolt first drops into the lead and is thereafter allowed to drop into the locking notch just under spring pressure. According to the exploded-view drawing in the included manual, both the hand spring and trigger/bolt spring are of original Colt style, as is the hammer spring.

The revolver is equipped with a frame-mounted rebounding firing pin, as well as a transfer bar that I understand from Mr. Taffin's writings is licensed from Ruger. Cocking effort and trigger pull seem to be a little heavy, which I attribute to the transfer bar.

When taken out of the box, I was surprised to see no evidence of any sort of grease or other preservative to protect the revolver during shipping. But there was no visible corrosion anywhere, so whatever Weirauch does seems to work. As a matter of fact, the action seemed to be bone-dry and gritty. I dripped a little CLP into the areas that are accessible without dis-assembly, especially in the area of the transfer bar where it slides in the hammer slot, and in the ejector rod slot. I also pulled the base pin and removed the cylinder and lubed the base pin and cylinder bushing with CLP. Things then seemed to free up nicely.

Here are a few pics that I took this afternoon:

DSCN0611.jpg

DSCN0612.jpg

The one oddity of this revolver is that, even though it's a three-screw action like the original Colt 1873 Peacemaker as well as the Old Model Ruger Blackhawks, the trigger screw on the EAA Bounty Hunter goes in from the right side of the frame. I suppose this must have something to do with the transfer bar mechanism.

Another little quirk that I noticed has to do with the transfer bar. The firing pin is not really what I would call rebounding, in that, after it strikes the cartridge it immediately bounces back. What happens is that, as you pull the trigger, the transfer bar raises up in between the hammer and the firing pin, so that when the hammer drops the hammer hits the transfer bar which transfers the strike to the firing pin. However, if you continue to hold the trigger depressed, with the hammer down, the firing pin is still held forward. If you would begin to cock the hammer, it seems possible that the firing pin would drag across the rim of the cartridge, as it's still depressed. If you release the trigger, however, even with the hammer still down, the transfer bar drops and the firing pin retracts. I would recommend NOT using this pistol as a slip-hammer or for fanning. You should probably release the trigger and allow it to reset after each shot.

For a size comparison, here is a photo with the EAA .22 on top, and my old (currently broken) Uberti Cattleman .45 LC on the bottom. One of the things that I like about the Bounty Hunter is that it is a full-sized revolver, not reduced in size like the Ruger Bearcat.

DSCN0613.jpg

By the way, the holster for the Uberti Cattleman fits the Bounty Hunter perfectly, except that the barrel protrudes out of the bottom, of course. So anyone buying one of these should expect to use a "large caliber" holster, not one sized for .22 revolvers.

I got it out for it's first run this afternoon, shooting 15-rounds (three cylinder fulls, leaving one empty chamber) of CCI CB Longs at about 7 yards, offhand. The forward-balance of the steel 6-3/4" barrel and the steel cylinder seem to cause the pistol to "hang" on target when pointed one-handed. Even considering my 58 year-old eyes, I'm pleased enough with the results:

DSCN0614.jpg

Without even touching the sights, they look to be regulated perfectly for windage (which is the real bugaboo with these fixed-sight revolvers). I will shoot it more with heavier bullets - these CB Longs were only 29 grains - and I bet the elevation will shift upwards a little. I expect that the sights are right on!

So far I have to say that I'm happy with this revolver. The only thing that is even a little difficult is getting the cylinder to line up properly when trying to insert the base pin. The instructions say that, due to the transfer bar, it's safe to carry it with all six chambers loaded. But I still practice the old fashioned "load one, skip one, load four", then cock and lower the hammer on the empty chamber. I honestly have to say that I am glad I purchased this revolver over the Ruger. The combination of the "modern" transfer bar in concert with the traditional "half-cock to load" mechanism is a perfect blending of the old and the new.

This revolver is also available in an eight-shot version, but to my eyes the cylinder, with the extra locking notches and flutes, kind of strikes a sour note with me. I like it as a six-shooter.
 
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OK, you're exonerated now that you've delivered that report... :D

Well written up and great pictures. And I agree that this gun looks a LOT nicer than the Heritage. The frame may be alloy but on a .22 I just don't see that as a problem in any way.

And as you say I suspect that once you find an ammo that works with the sights that they'll be right on. May I suggest you try some 40 gn Standard Velocity LR's from either Fiocchi or CCI? I'm liking how this ammo works so far in my old 3 screw SS.
 
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