357 Sig Reloding... but HOW???

I've seen arguments/conflicting info AFA reloading 357 SIG.
As part of your research, you might want to listen to the ProArms Podcast covering the cartridge (discussion starts @ the 8 minute mark). There is some info on reloading, but I don't know @ what point in the podcast.
055 "We're Getting the Band Back Together" to discuss the .357SIG cartridge.

I load 357 sig and to the best of my knowledge if you try to make a 40 case in a 357 sig it will be just too short. And yes you use 9mm bullets, you just have to pay attention to the bullet shape. You want some kind of a truncated cone flat point. I personally use rainier's for plinking and load 115 and 125 gr XTP's when i want a hollowpoint. Another tip i was told whenver I first started loading it was to use a slow burning powder like AA#9(thats what i use) or blue dot, this allows you to fill the case up so you dont have as much of a problem with bullet setback. good luck

glockky said:

I load 357 sig and to the best of my knowledge if you try to make a 40 case in a 357 sig it will be just too short. And yes you use 9mm bullets, you just have to pay attention to the bullet shape. You want some kind of a truncated cone flat point. I personally use rainier's for plinking and load 115 and 125 gr XTP's when i want a hollowpoint. Another tip i was told whenver I first started loading it was to use a slow burning powder like AA#9(thats what i use) or blue dot, this allows you to fill the case up so you dont have as much of a problem with bullet setback. good luck

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There you have it.

Also, don't bother using 10mm brass either. It is long enough to form, but you don't want/need the large pistol primer. It isn't cheap either.

Many places offer once fired 357 Sig brass at an affordable price. Just do a search of the outfits that sell once fired brass. Top Brass (Scharch) has good prices on it: http://scharch.com/products.php?cat=75

There are others.

Hope this helps.

Fred

I reload this caliber, among others, and I used the MT Gold 125gr bullet made for the .357 sig.

IMHO I found that NOT flaring the case mouth gives better neck tension. I crimp lightly with the Lee FCD. I started out crimping too heavily with the FCD and that lessened the neck tension leading to bullet setback.

I load 357 sig with once fired 357 sig from the local range, using 9mm bullets. I have found the XTPs function best. I use RCBS carbide dies. the 40 brass is too short to reform. 10mm has a large primer which is unnecessary.

357 SIG brass is heavier made brass ... around the base head area. slice open a 40 S& W case and a 357 SIG and see for your self.

Hard to beat a Hornady XTP (9mm) over a good load of AA#9 or 800X powder.

Jimmy K

There is a guy trying to sell 400 357 Sig brass for cheap in the Buy Sell components area right now. Might want to check him out.

Here is some on Gun Broker. Be aware if you get Speer brass that some of the flash holes are undersized and will pull the decapping pin out of your die. I had to put mine in a drill and turn it down several thousands to get it to reliably fit into and come out of the Speer flash hole. Forgot to mention I am using Berry's 9mm for my bullets but am planning on trying a hard cast lead in the near future. Like most others I use AA#9 for powder.

The Speer cases with the too small flash hole have a small "s" on the case head between the word Speer and the caliber marking. They will most reliably pull the decapping pin from a Redding sizing die. :banghead: Once you get them decapped, a 5/64" drill bit will ream them out to the proper size.

Chuck Perry said:

The Speer cases with the too small flash hole have a small "s" on the case head between the word Speer and the caliber marking. They will most reliably pull the decapping pin from a Redding sizing die. :banghead: Once you get them decapped, a 5/64" drill bit will ream them out to the proper size.

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What's the purpose of the smaller primer flash hole?

I noted this also as I was decapping some 1000 once fired. About 20 of the cases pulled the decapping pin from my Lee universal decapping die.

They were made under contract for Speer by Starline, hence the small "s" on the headstamp. There was no general purpose and the techs at Speer weren't aware of the difference until I brought it up to them at the SHOT Show several years ago.

Hope this helps.

Fred

I was just wondering, you guys that shoot the 357 SIG, does it show any acurracy improvement if you neck size only ?

Both of my 357 Sig pistols (no "." in front of the the 357) are laser accurate out to 50 yards or so. I've found no reason to experiment with neck sizing, since that would take another die, and I don't think I can hold any tighter a group than I'm shooting now with these pistols. Another factor is your loading for a semi-auto pistol. It's best to full length size any case that's going to be fired in either a semi-auto, or full auto firearm.

Hope this helps.

Fred

I go to a range that sells used once fired 357 sig brass for $25/1000 it's nickel plated Speer Lawman stuff mostly. They have a contract with some law enforcement agency that shoots 357 sig, so they usually have a large stash of sig brass for sale.

Fred,

You gotta lighten up son!

The Lee Factory Crimp Die is HIGHLY recommended - solves all set-back issues.

Fred, You gotta lighten up son!

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You're either technically correct or you're wrong. Reloading is a highly terminology rich hobby. The three five seven, 375 sig was called that because it is a direct comparison to a 125 grain .357 magnum revolver as far as VELOCITY is concerned. It will spit out a 125 grain bullet from a semi auto handgun, do it in a lighter weapon and have up to 3 times as many rounds before reloading/mag change. Lighten up? It's another way of saying don't bother me with details or facts. IOW, hold my beer, watch this!

I just spent well over an hour listening to the podcast. I must say they covered everything well. I never had much use for M.F. Ayoob, but I must say I was impressed with his knowledge. My above comment was covered in the podcast. I like the comment Mass said, it SHOULD have been called the .355 sig. But it wouldn't have sold well, just another wildcatted pistol round!

My main bullet to use in the 357 sig is the Hornady HAP bullet. It's a 125 grain xtp WITHOUT the internal skiving that makes/allows it to expand;

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=1165152935

My powder of choice is Alliant power pistol. I fills the case to the bottom of the bullet to support the bullet helping to prevent set-back. I also use the Lee factory crimp die to put a firm crimp on the bullet.

Lead bullets I use are these;



Those are tumble lubed standard lube groove 125 grainers. They shoot just great! Again with power pistol.

snuf and fred,

The original post I made about neck sizing 357 SIG brass was meant to be taken as a joke, that's why I put the at the end. I thought the act of neck sizing such a small peice of brass to be ludicrous.

The second post , the comment to fred to lighten up, meant don't take every thing I post verbatum.

I'm not doubting everyones well meant intentions as to safety or reliability of the information posted.

Just trying to have some fun!

dagger dog,

I was light!! You should see me when I'm heavy...........

The internet is such a one dementional medium for communication that sometimes the original intent of the poster becomes lost. As for me, I strongly detest those little faces. I guess they call them "emoticons", or something, and I normally just ignore them.

I appreciate humor when I recognize it, but it's often camoflaged on the internet. I'll watch for the silly little faces next time.........

Fred