Gun rust prevention AFTER shooting?

You can spray it with something like G96 Gun Treatment, just stay away from WD 40.

WD isn't bad, as long as you use it for what it's meant WATER DISPLACEMENT

I would say that a wipe down, simply wipe the guns off with WATER- damp rag to lift salts, then a wipe down with a gun oil when dry, would hold them over until your clean.

Try Eezox http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html

I've used it for about fifteen years and it lives up to its claims.

If Eezox doesn't work for you your only other choice is one of the modern coatings for $.

WD is not only lubricant or anti rust spray, but also penetrant. That is the problem. It may damage the well kept metal surface and the wooden grips or stock as well.

I use Rem oil. Is that a good idea? I wipe the gun down. Hit it with a little Rem oil, then clean asap, which could be a couple days.

Immediately after shooting you should wipe the guns down really well with Eezox, Breakfree CLP or Collector or Birchwood Casey Sheath. These products will neutralize the salt from your sweat and protect the metal. DO NOT place a gun you have sweated all over in a plush case (fabric or foam) because the lining will absorb the salt and moisture from your sweat and transfer it to every gun you put in it. When you get home lay the guns on your bench away from any cases or rags that you used at the range. Clean them as soon as you can. Guns will clean much easier, faster, and with less work the sooner you clean them. I have always wiped down the outside and soaked the bore of my guns while at the range with CLP, before they cool down and when I get home the fouling almost wipes off with a rag. Letting them set for a day or two allows that fouling to become hard and makes it difficult to remove. Remove the grips and wipe down the frame underneath because bad stuff will creep under the grips and attack the metal. If you want your guns to retain their finish you gotta put some effort into it.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=545607

Not wanting to start a big deal with anyone but in every test I have ever seen Remoil is not very good especially for a rust inhibitor.

Many people have a higher salt content in their sweat. I have seen guys who on a normal day pick up a guitar and cause the strings to rust?? Many of the guys I shoot with just use Breakfree CLP because no one gets rust or has problems with corrosion. I have wiped my guns down with CLP for many years and have not experienced any problems. There are other products that will work just as well if not better but unfortunately Remoil is not one that works around here.

Yep, I would say a simple wipe down with CLP or similar product will give you adequate protection until you can do a real cleaning. Should only take a minute.

When I go hunting out of state, I often take a coffee can containing CLP, cleaning patches or other wipes, and a bore snake. These hold me over until I can do a real cleaning when I return home. In your case, you could skip the bore snake as I imagine your sweat is causing only exterior rust.

We're talking about corrosive, right?

Call me ignorant, but I'm not up-to-par with this. Only the corrosive ammos, which I never shoot give off the salts, correct.

Non-corrosives don't.

WingofWar we are speaking to salt in sweat on a really hot day where you and your rifle are both soaked from sweat.

Oil
Rag
Wipe...

If my blued guns aren't going to be cleaned till the next day they get a good spraydown with CLP & a spritz of Kroil down the bore.

Stainless just gets the Kroil.

Wipe down with a CLP Cloth.

Is ezoxx safe on polymer? I've read such good things about it but after checking their website the closest dealer to me is 1.5 hours away but I'm always trying gun cleaning products. I've always used rem oil but and haven't had any rust on any of my guns, not even my carry gun that gets a lot of sweat on it. But rem oil is not spoken well of on most of what I read.

I shoot-um, I clean-um. Simple as that.

Gotta agree with the w.d nix.I use it as a solvent to clean really nasty heavy-duty lubricants off of parts.Seen alot of very expensive air tools ruined over the years because of it.It's o.k as a protectant if used often,but if you just wipe down and leave it long enough,the aromatics evaporate off and it leaves a gummy brown residue.And if you mix it with other types of lubricants,you got a real problem on your hands.

I usually clean my guns several days after a range session, if at all. I don't do anything special.

The only gun that ever rusts is my Smith revolver, where my sweat gets in between the grips panels. I only deal with that once in a blue moon, cuz taking the grips off isn't part of my normal cleaning.

one word

Eezox

Balistol spray and a quick wipe, No Balistol? Automibile ATF on a cotton cloth--almost a good. Works in SW Florida high humidity even after being exposed to light salt spray. I store some guns in an unheated (no AC) garage--no rust problems if properly handled.

Breakfree clp worked in florida for carry and hunting in the swamps too for over 25 years . After a while it seeps in the the metal and helps to control any chance of rust short term and long. Wet wipe a clean fiream heavily and let sit over night and wipe down the next day first time...

I was refurbishing a 60+ year-old gun about a month ago.

The barrel has a nice patina on it. I didn't have any bluing so I ordered some. There were two places where I had to carefully file plug screws I had made to plug 3 holes that were kind of mashed-out threads from someone over-tightening with screws that only had one or two threads gripping the threaded holes in the barrel! They looked to be a real mess! After filing the homemade screws flush with the surface, they looked perfect!

I wondered how to match the patina.

I had this wild idea of taking my sweat off my brow and wiped it on the newly-filed metal at the three holes where the newly-filed plug screws were "loctited" in place.

I did that several times over the next couple of days. About a week later, the bluing came. I cleaned up any oil and went ahead and blued the two large spots, which were now coated with a tiny bit of rust. The bluing matched nearly perfectly, then after I oiled down the entire gun, the bluing was perfectly-matched to the original brownish-patina! I was tickled to have matched the old metal in such a way!!