What to look for when you "work up" a load?

you don't have published data

Click to expand...

Find some first, then go from there.

The main TWO things that you are looking for, in order of importance are:
1. Any signs of overpressure or extreme pressure, including but not limited to:
a. flattened primers (no radius visible between the primer and primer pocket);
b. the bolt facing creating a "mold" of the facing to the primer and also possibly a mold to the base of the cartridge brass itself;
c. difficult or nearly impossible extraction of the empty case after the shot is fired;
d. a brighter brass ring around the perimeter of the case near the bottom, where the very bottom of the brass inside is located;
e. any flowing (aka cratering) of the primer around the firing pin;
f. any holes (pinholes or otherwise) where the firing pin struck the primer;
g.shiny marks on the fired case bottom where the bolt face and/or extractor smeared a bit of brass while opening the bolt.

2. Tight Groups! You are looking for a combination of components that are loaded in such a way so as to be so accurate out of the particular gun you are using, that they could be tack-drivers! Of course, in order to find this sweet load, one should shoot when there is no wind or breeze. It is also good if one shoots off a very sturdy bench, resting the gun on sand bags or anything that steadies the rifle so the sights are essentially perfectly still.

I also agree with post #2, in that you really need data published by the bullet companies and/or the powder companies. The more data you have, the more you can compare loads between sources. I don't typically EVER take just one source and go with it, as there could be something as simple as a typo that could ruin or nearly ruin a perfectly good gun - not to mention, possibly injure or kill the shooter.

With the internet, I find that I can find all kinds of load information from the different bullet companies and from the powder companies. I also have about six reloading manuals for various bullets (Speer, Barnes, Hornady, etc).

You want to begin reloading at 10% below maximum or at the publication's starting load, then load up in increments. There are various ways to accomplish the incremental loading which I won't get into. I will, however, state that, you should be methodical about everything, keep everything well-sorted and well-labeled and write down everything! You certainly do not want to spend all the time working up a load, bringing the targets all home from all the variations on that load but forget which load it was that put five bullet holes into one ragged hole at 100 yards!

Personally, I use a Chronograph, so not only do I write on every target the exact load, the date, whether windy or still, the temperature but also the speed in FPS of the projectile. I also make notations about any excessive recoil, or calm-feeling loads. If I have two identical targets and one hurts to shoot and the other is comfortable to shoot, I will go with the comfortable load over the sledgehammer load to help save my body and the gun. If you happen to shoot a game animal in a vital spot, it won't matter whether the bullet was traveling at 1,874 FPS or 2,020 FPS! The animal will drop with either load. If you think you might take a shot and have to track the animal, then don't take that shot as it is an inhumane shot that could cause the animal to live for three or more days while dying a slow, painful death.

I totally agree that no one should load over what any data says, unless they have found the data to be erroneous in some way.

As I stated, start at the lowest and work up. Sometimes, the lowest is not shown, but only one load is shown, in those instances work 10% below that as your starting point and work up slowly!

Working up a load for a mystery bullet involves things a novice should not mess with. Basically, you have to set the OAL and a minimum starting charge, load several rounds with the minimum starting load, shoot a group from a rest checking for pressure signs and reliability, then increasing the powder charge and retesting until you are happy with the performance or you reach the maximum pressure allowed.

Everything the FDF listed under his #1 are signs that you are probably already way over pressure.

What are you wanting to load? Someone here might be able to poit you in the right direction.

I don't load for rifle.
A novice pistol reloader should stick to bullets and other components that HAVE published data. If you are fairly new to reloading stop here and buy bullets with published data..

If you have loaded with several bullets and powders and understand the processes involved, then:
There is the problem of NOT having any published data for some bullets.

What I do: 9mm pistol 125 gr bullet= no data.

1.. Measure the mystery bullet length.
2 Find the length of a known bullet with published data of exactly same type and weight (FMJrn, FMJfn, HP, plated etc.). It must be the same weight & type bullet.
3. If the known bullet is .002" longer than the mystery bullet; subtract .002" from the published oal and use "that" new oal for the mystery bullet (and vice versa for .002" shorter mystery bullet) . This will put the mystery bullet at SAME seating depth in the case and 'close' to same case pressures.

4. Seat a few of the mystery bullets to the new oal with NO Powder & No Primer). Feed them into your mag and your pistol and see if they seat on the case-mouth and will 'drop in' and fall out'. IF they do, this is the oal you can load using the KNOWN bullets powder loads. START at the low end with maybe 5 cartridges, add .2grs for another 5, and yet another .2 grs for the third load, but don't test past mid-range loads yet. If it's a hot powder with a small load range like Titegroup, use .1 gr steps up to mid-range.
6. Shoot the lightest first and make sure it will operate the pistol action--watch for squibs. Carefully monitor the cases and primers for over-pressure signs as you move up.

If the second or third load doesn't show overpressure signs and shoots well, then you can load enough to give them more testing for accuracy and 'feel', or maybe one to the higher 'mid-range end of the data'.

This works safely for me.
A CHRONO makes this easier and safer to do.

I pretty much follow 1SOW's procedure exactly. It helps to use a popular powder, too. More data available.

I don't use a chrono but have always found best accuracy well before observing any over pressure signs.

It sounds like you are well on your way, congratulations!

Just be careful, and if that little voice in your head ever tells you to STOP, for any reason, Do STOP until you have figured out where you need to go from there!

Better to waste a bit of powder and some projectiles if needed than to keep moving up with loads even though there are signs telling you to do otherwise (telling you to stop now). You don't want to be treading into the DANGER-ZONE at any time! What may be a hot load on a cold day may not even extract from the gun after firing on a really hot day or when the ammo is physically HOT! Hot ammo results in excessive pressure!

Accuracy is good. When I find a promising load, I will test it by using mixed brass and powder charges that are highly variable--basically, I ensure I test with worst case parameters. If it still shoots well, then it's good.

I don't like loads that take a lot of work to get them to shoot well.