what kind of air compressor to clean guns?

I use one of these in the basement shop.
Stores easily under the workbench and puts out 90PSI.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915310000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3
They will probably be on sale again after xmas for even less.

90 PSI is plenty to blow your eyeballs out, so Hairballs & Dust Bunny's in a gun don't stand a chance!

I don't run a moisture trap, and don't have a moisture problem.
If you run it in a climate controlled house, there is not enough differential temperature or humidity to cause tank condensation.

I take mine outside about once a year and blow the tank empty with the drain valve, and even then, there is hardly ever any water in the tank.

I have another air compressor outside in the garage. Hot & cold all the time.
I put a moisture trap/filter on it years ago, and have never had to blow it out yet.

So, I would save your money on that until you find out you actually have some moisture to trap in a trap!

rc

There ain't nothin' better than to have the room, the parts washer, and the air compressor to really clean a firearm.
I have the large upright compressor with pvc running around the ceiling in the garge. Mine collects moisture. However, I use a "green" solvent that mixes with water. Couple of stiff "paint brush" handled brushes, a tool washer with running cleaner and finish with a 100#s of air.
I also have a moisture trap mounted immediately off the compressor and another that I can put on my hose.
Scary how much rusty water comes out of the bottom valve of my air compressor.

A small compressor like the one linked above will work fine. You can buy moisture traps, regulators, and oilers in most places that sell 230V compressors, its usually cheaper to by all three than it is two of them.

I have the large upright compressor with pvc running around the ceiling in the garge.

Click to expand...

PVC pipe gets brittle over time, and will burst. I use galvanized pipe for my hardlines. If it goes, it will simply split along the seam causing a massive airleak, instead of shooting shrapnel everywhere. I learned the hard way, and wouldn't wish anyone else to. Okay, maybe a few people...

I've been using the compressed air in a can. It's used for cleaning electronics, but it works great for guns. It doesn't seem to leave any trace of moisture.

how anybody can live without a air compressor or for that matter a cutting torch and a welder is beyond me.i built my first air compressor when i was about 20 from a ford air con pump and a electric motor and a air tank off a semi. i use mine almost every day for cleaning guns, blowing off the reloading bench, airing up tires, blowing the dirt out when detailing my cars, cleaning the carb on the lawn mower,etc. i used it today when bolting down some seats on ladder stands i was building.get one and you wont regret it!

If you clean guns at the kitchen table like me (single guy ), canned air has about the perfect amount of power and the snorkel tip is handy as heck.

As mentioned above PVC is a definate no-no for compressed air. Use copper tubing or steel pipe for pnuematic systems.

I have a Craftsman pancake unit under my workbench in the garage with a 75' hose coiled on a hook. I use it for "dusting off" lots of stuff and even use it to air up tires in the driveway.

Like RC, I drag it out and drain it about once a year.

I too use a vertical shop compressor, 80 gallons. I regulate the pressure to 100 pounds for general cleaning, and use a water trap, but NO oiler for tools. I know this would be total overkill for the person who just cleans guns and other small parts, but I also run a selection of automotive air tools, hoses, etc.
If you want to do it right, plumb the shop lines in either "L" copper or galvanized pipe, but avoid PVC plastic above ground. It was not designed for above ground compressed gasses, even though it can hold lots of pressure.

I've got a 2-gal one slung under my kitchen table with bungee cords, partially supported by a big foam rubber block. Of course, I'm a bachelor, so there's no question of someone objecting to that "ugly noisy thing" in her kitchen. Meaning the compressor, not me.

It pumps up to about 105 psi and I regulate it down to about 65 psi for most operations.

It's so handy for cleaning and drying things it's unbelievable. I even use it for dusting things around the house, like the fins on the baseboard hot water heating, scope lenses, etc. Things too numerous to mention, and I think I'm going to start learning some air brush art, to boot.

With the dry climate around here, I rarely have any more than a couple of drops of water to drain out. However, since the partial pressure of oxygen in the tank is about 20-25 psi, it accelerates the oxidation/rusting process inside the tank, so any moisture in the tank at all is undesirable.

But I've never had condensation occur on blowing stuff off with it --again, I thank the general low humidity around here. (Presently 20%.)

I suspect, but cannot prove*, that a lot of the condensation on the part being blown off is due to the blast of air, which is cold(er) than the surrounding air** entraining humid air from around the nozzle, and that it is this moisture condensing from the ambient air causing the wetness on the part.

The only problem with mine is that I have to run it down to about 50 psi before the compressor starts again, so if I don't run it down to that pressure, it remains only partially pressurized. One of these days I'm going to get into it and add a lever or button or something so I can get it to start again to refill the tank even though it hasn't been run down to start-up pressure.

I agree that I don't understand how anyone can get along without one.

Two hints:

(1) Wear goggles.
(2) Blow off solvents outdoors.

Terry, 230RN

* Due to the fact that it's usually so dry around here.
** Due to adiabatic cooling

When I want to deep clean the gun I first spray it down with WD40 and let it sit for about 30 minutes. Then I blow it out with the air.

My compressor is 100 PSI (max). I don't bother with a moisture trap because after the crud is blown out of the gun I continue to finish cleaning and oiling it normally.

One thing to be careful of is that there are no parts or springs that can be blown away by the air. I had it happen a couple times but was lucky enough to find the small springs.

The high air pressure does a fine job of deep cleaning guns.

I often hear of people using air compressors to blow out all the excess crud and cleaning solvent when giving their guns a good cleaning.

Click to expand...

It mostly just drives crud further into actions.

Never used compressed air for firearms.

I use one from Harbor Frieght works just fine and was less than 50 bucks.

Humidity has some bearing on condensation but the real culprit is heat. That compresed air in the tank creates heat. I try to "bleed" the water out often with the bottom screw valve.

I'm thinking my PVC/air compressor is over 10 years old. Runs up and around the wall crown for the whole garage. Has four down pipes for convenient hookup. Flex hose from water filter up to PVC. Never had a problem.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-cpvc-pipes-pressures-d_796.html

Unless you free up the "crud" it could be jammed into dark places. For those who cannot clean with air, you can do well with a can of RemOil. Spray firearm where needed. Let it soak up the oil for a few minutes. With a small brush, spray and brush. The pressure from the can and the brush should do very well. Of course, disassembly of the firearm is great.

Never thought of using the compressor on guns. I use it to clean my lawnmower, tire inflation, blowing whatever debris may be lying around my garage or driveway to the 4 winds, etc. I don't have a moisture trap but will be on the lookout for one. I use an upright one from Harbor Freight, so far so good.

I use one for my air tools.

Never thought of using the air blower for "cleaning" my guns. I've always used a rag and plenty of elbow grease with the brass bore brush.

Air compressors drive cleaning solvents further into the action than you can by hand and they displace crud. There is no better gun cleaning tool except for the bore brush.

To clarify. I spray down my match guns with RemOil, let soak, come back later and spray away crud with RemOil. Then I use the air compressor.
Every couple of months I will take some basic parts off the firearm including the grips,stocks, and fore arms and dip the whole gun in my parts washer (20 gallon). I use a long bristle parts brush on everything.
Then I take a 10" angled air nozzle to blow as much of the liguid off/out of the firearm. Lightly spray with RemOil, wipe dry and store long guns barrel down on a cloth.
Handguns are stored on rubber coated steel rods that are in a 2x8 at a 45 degree angle.
I wish all of you could.

I agree with HSO.... If you are blast cleaning anything, not just fire-arms, I would highly recommend using a nozzle/tip that is a venturi-type to assist in preventing the injection of air. Not that this applies to individual use in one's home, but in industry this is an OSHA requirement.

The Dove

You don't need high pressure, anything capable of filling a flat tire is sufficent.

they displace crud.

Click to expand...

To where?

Further into the action.

Even if the cleaner evaporates, what do you think happened to the crud it had dissolved or was carrying?

The crud that comes of/out my guns drip or are blown to the floor. And I use a lot more thn 15#s. Sorry.

Soften the crud, brush with cleaner and blow it away!!

+1
It doesn't go further into the action.

I'm amazed every time I blow out a pocket gun with 90 PSI air!
The stuff that comes out sometimes is pretty impressive.

I'm also pretty amazed when I do a complete tear-down at how clean they are inside.

BTW: If you can't trust yourself with a high-pressure air hose nozzle?
You probably should stay away from car wash wands, steak knives, and sharp hand tools too.

rc