Reloading Woes.

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Fish

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So my 7/8-oz. charge bar for the MEC Sizemaster arrived in the mail yesterday along with some other goodies (bushings, bottle supports, etc), so I tossed in bushing 28, which should throw ~ 16.4 grains of Red Dot -- just about perfect for a low-recoil 7/8-oz. load.

Except neither bushing nor charge bar threw the proper weight -- both were quite a bit under. The 7/8-oz. charge bar was throwing about 10-14 grains light (not a big deal), but the bushing was throwing as light as 15.3 grains -- over a grain short.

Eventually I just stepped up to bushing 29, which worked just fine, but now I'm curious -- what's the greatest amount below the recommended powder weight you view as a safe load? 5%? 10%? 15%?

Fish.
 
5% or so, Fish. Too little powder is as bad as too much.

This is why we weigh and double check stuff.

And a new can of powder means starting over. I buy 4 lb cans.

Also, when filling the powder reservoir, tap the thing and settle the powder until a rap doesn't cause it to settle visibly. This ensures consistency.
 
If you don't have a powder baffle get one. If you don't have an adjustable charge bar get one. Don't be surprised if bushings and bars miss the mark by a 15% or more, it is a mickey mouse way to do it. $25 gets you every bushing and bar ever made and then the ability to adjust in between sizes if you feel the need, you just have to buy the adjustable charge bar. You can hit the recipes dead on within a tenth of a grain for both powder and shot!!

Trust me, if you are loading on a MEC you will never use the bushings and bars again after you set up just one load with the adjustable charge bar.
 
Too little powder is as bad as too much.

Yeah, I figured as much... which is why I discarded all the light loads, and stepped up to the proper loading.

Speaking of discarding bad loads... is there a good way to dismantle a defective shotshell other than cutting it open? Undoing a crimp and pouring out the shot is easy, but the wad is another issue.

Fish.
 
I can salvage all the components except the primer, Fish. I cut the crimp off and after the shot is out I use needlenose pliers to pull the wad. Don't worry about hulls, next time I'll donate you a box or two to practicw with.

H nailed it about the baffle. Lots more consistency, though I've found I had to recalibrate my bushings, they changed to .3-.5 gr lighter. No prob if operating in the middle anyway.

How's your crimps?
 
Pull the wad with needle nose pliers. Then pour the powder back to the hopper.
 
As usual...being the way I am and all...and since "just because something is marked don't make it necessarily so...
Yes it is me again. With , of course another "approach" to the problem. :p
[why is Dave reaching for aspirin?]

Yes needle nose pliers , remove and return. Now for the original question:

I prefer the old charge bar set up. I had multiples I left set up with respective bushings and recipes.

I "tweaked" the bushing, meaning I opened it up , threw charges and averaged, until bushing threw what I wanted it to. Bushing was 'painted' and a letter engraved to distinguish it from the other bushings. [28-B, 28 -C...] I may also shrink one with electrical tape.

I had a notebook that gave the recipe , complete with "yellow 28-C bushing".

Yes I re -checked and weighed stuff...but with say 64#'s ( eight ,eight pounders ) of same lot of a powder...consistent.

Understand I had six to ten reloaders for shotshells I used . I used the single stage for competition loads ( tourneys) and "T&E...R&D". Progressives for cranking to shoot for practice and hunting.

I know, as usual I go against the grain...just because so marked don't mean it is...when I got finished it was :p

Probably the only person that had a dozen 1 1/8 oz. charge bars and and a dozen of the same bushing #....with a crew and marathon loading session...nice to have tho'. Go through a 8# keg in one day...crankin'
 
I can salvage all the components except the primer.

Why can't you salvage the primer? Seems like you could just punch it out with the resize die and use it in another hull.

I'll have to start keeping some pliers by the reloading table. I've got tons of hulls -- more than I really need. And when those run out or get shot out, I've another twenty or so boxes of AA factory loads to shoot off, and that's not even counting the cheapie bulk-pack stuff.

Crimps are fine; I'm checking them carefully at the start of each loading session and adjusting the reloader to get good ones.

Fish.
 
As the loading manuals warn, punching out a live primer can cause ignition. I don't think chancing it to save 3 cents is worthwile.

sm, I haven't needed to alter a bushing, but I regard it as a viable technique.
And I would have reached for the aspirin anyways.
 
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