top break revolver

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olafhardtB

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For years I have wanted a topbreak revolver to play with. I would prefer a 32 but could live with a 38. Some of you guys have these. I want a small one. I am not offering to buy but I am seeking advice from people who have, shoot and reload for one or more. The gun will fill no serious roll, just a plaything.
 
If you've never handled one, you'll be shocked how small the old S&W DA and Safety Hammerless revolvers are. They are tiny. I have both, and shot new factory ammo through them both until I had enough to reload for them. Now I just shoot powderpuff loads that are at the bottom end of the scale just for fun.

If you get a Safety Hammerless, try to get a 3rd variation or newer with the T-style latch, they are supposed to be stronger than the older versions. I don't know the model for the DA, but mine is a 4th and I haven't had any issues.

I also have an old 1 1/2 S&W, which is blackpowder only, and I have to handload for. Overall, I don't shoot mine too often. The sights are abysmal, and unless you reload they can get pricey to shoot. They also don't fit my hand very well, as I'm a big guy with long fingers and these were clearly designed for someone 2/3rds my size. The end result of this is that I generally can't hit jack with them, but my girlfriend does quite well - smaller hands and much better eyes. Mostly, I bought them because they are beautifully made and great to look at. They are some of the best looking revolvers ever made IMO.

A lot of these were just thrown in the sock drawer, which means that there are lots out there in really good condition - they aren't rare by any means so don't pay a premium unless it is just perfect. .32s seem to be more plentiful than the .38s, which will bring a bit more in price.

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If you lust after this style of gun then you owe it to yourself to expand your topbreak "collection" desires enough to include a top break H&R Sportman or similar. Sure, it may only be a lowly .22 but with 9 shots in the cylinder and with the cost of a good condition used one being relatively low it is a gun you could shoot a LOT. And you should shoot it a lot. My own Sportsman is a really fun plinking gun with better than acceptable accuracy. My S&W17 does out shoot it but not by much at all... and only on a good day when I'm really on my game.
 
gun will fill no serious role, just a plaything.
That was my desire, as well ... I just wanted a top-break toy. A very old H&R 999 was perfect, why feed a toy anything other than .22lr?
I even found a speedloader for the thing, and it turned out that I had accidentially picked up a good condition gun from 1937 or so, if I remember right.
 
Smith & Wesson made alot of top-break/double action .32's, and a pretty fair number ended up in somebody's bedside table drawer. Today almost like-new examples go for around $300 to $400 at the larger antique auctions.

Later examples can be fired using modern ammunition, but it is sometimes hard to find and expensive. The lockwork looks like something out of a Swiss watch, and small springs are easily broken. Don't "toy around" with one too much.
 
Old H+R top-breaks are well made and undervalued. Good examples for around 100, usually in .32. I have one, a hammerless, a wonderful little gun.
 
Here are a couple of top breaks.
A very ugly Enfield No.2 in .38 S&W

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And an even uglier R.J. Braverman in .32acp (shown with the Braverman .25acp Pen Gun)

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Quality is not always measured by price. The original trail gun, 999 sportsman.
 

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That is one good looking H&R! Prices on those have climbed lately, I wish I bought one a couple of years ago before they became better known.
 
My LGS has an Iver Johnson .38 top break. It's been sitting in the used hand gun case for the better part of a year. They want $150. I keep thinking about scraping together the extra or breaking into my gun fund and buying it, but I really don't need it.
 
Need it for what? Unless it is in unusually fine condition the price is too high. Older models (1895 - 1909) should not be fired with anything but ammuition loaded with black powder. New Models (1909 - 1941) are in theory safe to shoot, but because of very small sights and other reasons offer questionable accuracy.

They are interesting collectables, with some interesting history behind them. That however is about all.
 
That depends on if you want a revolver to shoot. Obviously they're is nothing wrong with that. But if you're in the market for an example of a now mostly obsolete kind of revolver the 19th century - early 20th century top-break pocket revolvers have charms, and for the most part they are easly afordable.

I would say the O.P. fits the latter description.
 
I know you mention 32 or 38 caliber, but you also mention plaything.
Well 22's are probably the most popular plinker / plaything, and H&R Sportsman are some great top breaks!

1955 Sportsman chrome
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1939 model 777 Ultra Sportsman

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1980 4" Sportsman

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More 1980 Sportsman
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1936 Model 199 Sportsman
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Hi Olaf,
I'm one of the guys that for some strange reason has a penchant for these guns. The Ivers and H&Rs are just incredibly cheap toys. In general for these top breaks, if the H&R has the caliber stamped on the left side of the barrel or the Iver Johnson has the owl looking toward the heel rather than the trigger, they are models made for smokeless powder. The older models were designed for black powder, but if they are tight, some people here shoot them anyway with smokeless powder. Either way, I suggest loading your own light loads. I like shooting Trail Boss powder with the light lead bullets. There are no published loads, but I doubt you can load enough of that powder in these small cases to have a pressure problem (do your own due diligence on that statement!).

Hope you find your toy, my favorite is an IJ hammerless in 38 S&W.
 
I also have an I.J Safety hammerless in .38S&W(made in 1898 according to Fuff). I shortened the barrel to 2 inches, and installed a brass bead front sight. I load my own blackpowder rounds for it, and it does get carried on occasion!
 
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