In Depth Study of Gun Lubricants?

Good luck trying to define the requirements and a realistic repeatable measurement protocol.

Look into Phil Wood Grease. It stays where you put it, and lasts forever. A little goes a LOOOOOOONG way. It was originally intended for racing bicycle hubs, and actually creates a "seal" against dirt and grime. Then wipes clean. I have used this for years and have a CZ75 that has only been lubed with this. I have shot thousands of rounds between cleanings, multiple times, and it still cleaned easily and was very well protected from wear. Worth checking out. You can find it at most cycling specific stores and online. http://www.philwood.com/products/gohc/oilngrease.php (Apparently its also one of the 80 things every man should own. At least according to Esquire [for whatever that's worth])

I would consider FP10. Something to think about when picking a lubricant, especially with semi-auto rifles, is what temperature the lube burns. FP10 has a very high burning point, and is far less likely to burn off and turn into more carbon during shooting. CLP burns fairly low, and that is one of the reasons why it doesn't seem to last very long, and it dirties up the gun. CLP is a "jack of all trades, master of none" fluid. It Cleans, Lubricates, and Protects. But it doesn't do any of those jobs very well.

I've never seen a formal study done that compares then. Oil for autos yes (pin and v block experiments). Oil/lube for guns, no.

I don't think the actual brands make much difference. I use Break-Free CLP and Tetra Gun Grease on everything. Only so much CLP escapes and then you just wipe off any excess. Carry CLP in your shooting gear bag and apply more as needed.

I don't see how a gun grease can "make action less smooth and prone to malfunction". Apply a light film of grease, and wipe off any excess with your fingers.

Oil and grease can hold contaminants, clean and re-apply as needed.

I have been using Frog Lube for the past year. The gun will appear to be totally dry until you start firing. Once you fire a few rounds the lube starts coming out of the metal. Even my picky ARs and 1911s run smooth with it no matter the round count. Clean up is a breeze afterwards too. The first few applications are a pain, but worth it in the in.

gun oil study

believe it or not but Boeing did one about 25 years ago. afterwords they put out their own oil which i believe is superior to most others. I dont remember what they called the oil. used to buy it Kesselrings gun shop in Washington state. I ran out of it many moons ago but plan to see if it is still available next time I am out that way.

I own several semi auto handguns. I've tried all the "latest greatest" gun oils out there pretty much. You would be surprised by what I have found to do the job quite well. Mobile 1 10W30!!! It's efficient, cost effective, and just plain works. Viscosity is just perfect for use on firearms. A lot of AR users have found this out as well. I just got an AR10 and the very first thing I did was break it down completely, cleaned all surfaces with brake clean, blew them dry with compressed air, lubed with Mobil 1. No issues yet but I haven't really gotten to put it through it's paces yet. Couple of more weeks recovery for knee surgeries then I'll put her through the ringer. I pretty much doubt there will be any issues from lube. If it will handle 200 rounds of .45ACP through my Colt (fast fire/reload/target acquisition practice) without carbonizing and still have a nice film of protection, I see no issues from regular shooting practices from anything else short of maybe full auto.

I suggest SuperLube grease. I use it with a hypodermic needle, placing it on the rails where needed. No less. No more. Lube is BF Lube/Preserve for other moving parts, BF Collectors down the bore (no Teflon). I have never had (in 25 years) a jamb. This works. Discovered it at OCS/Quantico.

Find an oil you like and use it....no gun that has otherwise been properly cared for has ever been effected by lube choice...

There are people that use motor oil, 3-in-1, rem oil, clp, vegetable oil , high tech oil xxxx, ect....hell three are even people who use only wd-40( not even an oil).....and their stuff runs just fine.


So don't get to hung up on finding "the best " oil, because honestly , for the most part, they All do the same thing

It's definitely gun dependent. You can use oil that doesn't evaporate like M-Pro on polymer guns like SR9c. Or preferably gun-grease like slide-glide on full rail guns like the Sigs.

Rem-oil and CLP seem to evaporate and thus offer no protection, in my experience.

I second froglube... great stuff I use it for all of my babies..

The military did some studies we got CLP out of it. My personal opinion is it just does not matter that much unless you are in an extreme climate and then its usually don't use as much lube.

The military gave us CLP because they wanted one fluid to do an OK job at all the actions; cleaning, lubricating, and protecting. That doesn't mean it does any of those well. It just means they solved the issue of doing all three jobs adequately without the logistical nightmare of issuing three separate fluids.

If you are looking to do each one of those things beyond mediocre, I would suggest something specialized and designed for just that one task.

Don't ever assume that just because the military does something, that makes it the best. Above all else, the military tries for the easiest logistical answer. Ever wonder why the standard Rifle Marksmanship Qualification test is 40 rounds, and the standard M9 Pistol Qualification is 50 rounds? Because two 20rd boxes of rifle rounds is for one soldier running the rifle qual once, and one 50rd box of pistol ammo is for one soldier running the pistol qual once. It makes ordering and issuing ammo to units and soldiers easier. That's it. It has nothing to do with 40 rounds really showing you know how to shoot the M16/M4 well, or 50 rounds showing you know how to shoot the M9 well. The military way is usually the laziest and easiest, not the best.

That's exactly what I like about CLP. It does all three tasks reasonably well. It does so on all of my guns. I don't have to carry a bunch of different bottles with me. When I get home I have Hoppes for heavy cleaning, WD40 for water removal, Eezox for long term storage, AeroShell Grease #6 for triggers and so on. The only stuff that sees frequent use is the CLP.

believe it or not but Boeing did one about 25 years ago. afterwords they put out their own oil which i believe is superior to most others. I dont remember what they called the oil. used to buy it Kesselrings gun shop in Washington state. I ran out of it many moons ago but plan to see if it is still available next time I am out that way.

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Is it Boeshield T-9? I have used that on bike chains, and it is good stuff.

I have alway's used the Lucas Oil Gun oil. "IT WORKS!"

For stainless, nothing beats ATF. Takes a day to reach full effect (not sure why...) One quart lasts 1 lifetime. Guys sell it as stainless lube in teeny bottles at gun shows for $4.

In my 25 plus years of experience using Breakfree CLP in various professional applications it absolutely has done everything the maker claims. I cannot understand why all of the people who badmouth CLP are having such a miserable time with it. I have used it in the military and while doing gunsmithing, instructing NRA classes (and getting the job of cleaning all of the range guns used for the day) and with heavy competition use on 1911s in hot and cold and wet and it has never failed to clean, lubricate and keep all of my guns from corroding in adverse conditions. When the Govt. announced the performance requirements for CLP almost every manufacturer looked at them and said it couldn't be done. Breakfree met and exceeded the requirements. Maybe there is a better product out there but I haven't seen it. My experience with Boeshield is that it protects aluminum aircraft assemblies from weather when parked on a ramp very effectively but isn't really a great lubricant. ATF is my 2nd choice if I can't get some CLP. It is a fairly good carbon cutting solvent and a VERY good lubricant. I use around the shop for lubing all of my machines.

I saw a video for Gunzilla where it and several competitors products were sprayed on an angles sheet of steel. Then a shovel full of dirt was thrown on the oiled metal to see how much would stick and how much would slide off. The Gunzilla seemed to work best as the dirt slid right off. It is also non-toxic and does not stink.

The Gunzilla seemed to work best as the dirt slid right off.

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Do you really think they would have shown any other result?

It is advertising.

You only get to see what the advertiser wants you to see.

The remarks about military testing and supply are right on the mark.

It is about logistics and what is 'adequate' for the needs present.

Rarely what is 'best.'

And even to define 'adequate' can be a huge fight.

How flammable is it?
How toxic is it?
Vapor pressure?
How dangerous to transport?
Can it be transported in an unpressurized aircraft?
At what altitude?
In its regular packaging?
Temperature range for transport?
Temperature range for use?
Does it meet ALL the needs of ALL the users at ALL the locations?

Does it still work in blazing heat at 10,000 ft?
How about freezing cold at 10,000 ft?

KISS is a real driving requirement.
As few items for as many needs as possible.

I guess I need to move up in the world, I still use 3-In-1 oil.

Give Slipstream from Crusader Weaponry LLC a try. I treat all my firearms with their grease and lube.
I'm one of "those" guys that takes a few thousand rounds to the range at a time, and Slipstream has made a noticeable difference in the way my firearms run, and how smooth they feel.

Just my opinion.