I bought a S&W Model 36, any advice?

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It has surface rust on various spots around the gun, except the exposed grip area, should I re-blue it myself?
You did okay on the price, but don't reblue it. Send it to Mahovsky's and have it hard chromed. I have a Beretta 70S .22LR that had a stubborn rust spot on it. The rest of it was in great condition, but it just wouldn't come out. ("Out, out damn spot!"). I finally sent it to Mahovsky's and they did a masterful job on it.

Hard chrome looks like stainless steel, stops wear and tear, never shows holster wear and makes the gun look new. Plus, Mahovsky's has great prices, even if you do want to reblue it.

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Confederate, that looks real nice!! But I think the worn blue is growing on me. However, I am thankful that you told me about them. I'm sure I will come across something to send their way. It just looks to cool!
 
CLP & steel wool. Then have it parkerized.

Then shoot the living crap out of it because it's one of the best of it's kind ever made.

:thumbup:
 
The only time I even think about trying to remove burn rings is if I'm thinking about selling a revolver. Then I kick myself in the backside and put the thing back in its case, rings and all. If it doesn't come off on a wet patch it's okay for it to stay there.

And I'm with you and many of the rest. Leave the finish the way it is and put the gun to use. It's too late to make a safe queen out of the thing and it never wanted to be locked away anyhow.
 
JoNate
I wouldn't change the finish if I were you. A worn blue gun ooozzes character. You may have to watch it just a bit more than a refinished one, but that allows us to handle & admire our guns. just keep a light film of oil on it, but it in a pocket holster, & use it. It's a great gun. You are already having fun with it. It's been suggested before, get some wadcutters & shoot in it. they are fun to shoot easy on the shooter & gun, & VERY accurate. Wadcutters are a pretty good small game load too.
Enjoy that gun, I think you did well.
Frank
 
Get some Mothers Mag and Wheel Polish

I would not use that on a blued gun unless you want the remaining blue taken off. Works great on stainless and will produce a high gloss shine that rivals and exceeds factory nickel.
 
Can anyone recommend a good CC holster and also a good car holster?

Thank you much fellas!
 
If you do pop the plate off, and haven't done it before, DON"T PRY IT. Rap the frame with a non marring tool and it should come off. Since it's a carry gun you might consider new standard weight springs from Wolff. It's good to have a set on hand even if you elect to use the old springs. Inspect the return spring block. A few light passes on a hard Arkansas stone can smooth your double action pull a bit. I concentrate on the bottom and inboard side of the block keeping it dead flat against the stone. The spring hole in the block can be smoothed by wrapping 1000grit around an appropriate size dowel to make sure there are no tiny burrs. That's just my .02 cents. The sights are regulated for 158 grain loads. I recommend the Remington 158gr SWCHP. You made a great buy. Congrats.
 
Don't use steel wool!!! The little particles will stick to the gun and accelerate rusting. Get bronze wool instead.
 
I put CT 105 LG on mine and I use a unclemikes pocket holster. I also like Buffalo Bore 158 grain standard pressure 158 grain LSWCHP. ENJOY!!!
 
Don't use steel wool!!! The little particles will stick to the gun and accelerate rusting
No, actually it won't.

Gunsmiths and firearms refinishers use #0000 Super-Fine steel wool & oil on new bluing jobs all the time to "card" or clean the bluing salts residue off guns hot out of the tank.

Bronze wool leave copper tracks all over the new bluing, and then you got to use Copper Solvent to get that off.

rc
 
Great gun, I guess I gotta start surfing the pawn shops again.
For a holster I use a crossbreed super tuck for my J frame.
It sounds like over kill till you forget you are wearing a gun.
Steve
 
Wear on a snub revolver is like a torn ear on a pit bull. Or tattoos on an ex-con. It just makes it look meaner and scarier. I'd also leave it just as it is.
 
I have used Brownell's Oxypho on lots of old guns. They look better but not refinished. Although a cold treatment it doesn't fade is a tough protector and holds oil well.
 
Leave it alone! You will pay more for the CT grips then you did the gun. Buy ammo or reload a pile of it and then shoot it till your hands turn black with carbon. It is a fine gun and you did REALLY good on the price! I would have bought one for each hand at that price! I have one and would have jumped on a second for that price! Shoot, reload, repeat, enjoy!
 
i can't stand cold blue because of the smell, not to mention its worthless as a finish. you can smell that crap on a gun thats been cold blued for years.
 
I like the Alessi IWB holsters. Mine is probably almost 20 years old & been used a lot, it's still in good shape.
A hoslster I've been using the past 5 months is the Simply Rugged & I'm really liking it.
www.simplyrugged.com Of course Bianchi, El Paso Saddlery, & several others make excellent holsters too. There are a lot to choose from.
Good luck.
Frank
 
I respectfully disagree with the earlier poster who suggested leaving the side plate on.

Get a "gunsmith" screwdriver set with interchangeable hollow-ground tips so you won't mar the side plate's screw heads. If there is corrosion around the screws (and there very well may be) you may have to put some penetrating oil (I suggest Kroil) on the screws over night before you try to take them out.

Use a piece of wood such as a hammer's handle to rap the grip (take the grip panels off) to free up the side plate (look for YouTube videos showing the proper technique). Don't use a screwdriver to try to pry up on the lower left side of the side plate over the grip to try to get the side plate free. After a few hard raps on the grip portion of the frame the side plate will come free and you can inspect and clean and lubricate the internals.
 
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