I disagree with several points. I have owned and fired a lot of handguns. I have a significant amount of professional experience with handguns of a variety. I would say that I'm very comfortable with most platforms - Glock, CZ, Sig Sauer, S&W, Ruger, Keltec, Bersa, Springfield, 1911s, etc.
While buying from a gun store is fine for many people, someone on a budget that wants to upgrade to a gun outside their budget can get a great deal on a used gun FTF. They should get a gun-knowledgable friend to help them pick one out. The savings can be as much as 20%!!!
While there are handguns that are designed to custom fit to your hand, a good shooter will conform his/her hand to the weapon system. Fit is not the most important thing; with training and practice you can adjust your hand to fit a gun, which is what you should do IF you need to.
When I make recommendations for guns for newbies, which I do, here is an example recommendation:
The three main decisions for a handgun. Size/weight, type (semi-automatic vs. revolver), and caliber.
1. Size/weight will largely be determined for you.
a. If it's a strictly home defense gun, then it should be larger framed because it will inherently have larger capacity, sight radius, and weight for better accuracy and follow up shots.
b. If it’s a gun intended for carry, however, then it will necessarily be smaller and lighter with inherently less bullet capacity.
2. Type:
a. Semi-auto is appropriate for someone who is more mechanically inclined. It requires hand strength to rack the slide to load it or clear malfunctions or unload it. There are more moving pieces so in reality more chances for a failure or jam of some sort requiring the use to manipulate the weapon to fix it. Also, some have external safeties which are a double edged sword. It may be ‘safe’ but in a stressful situation you forget to disengage the safety and fail to fire the gun. I’ve heard that some people have been found dead with a gun in their hand that is still on safe. This is precisely the reason that many companies DO NOT put manual safeties on their guns, such as Glock. But understand Glock still has internal mechanical safeties that are arguably MORE safe than a gun with an external manual safety. The advantages of a semi-auto are typically a thinner profile for carry, a higher ammo capacity in the magazine (typically in a carry gun about 9-12 rounds), and faster reloads for most people by using a magazine.
b. Conversely, a revolver is nearly dummy proof. You load it and when you need it you have 5 or 6 shots. No external safety to worry about, and it is incredibly rare for a quality revolver to jam due to their design. The only real drawbacks are that they are slower for reloads for most people and carry less shots (typically 5-6 for a carry gun). Reloads can be carried in speed strip for easy access. Also, if you buy a .357 magnum, you can shoot less expensive training .38special bullets in it. But both are expensive bullets compared to semi-auto ammo.
3. Caliber: There will always be arguments on which caliber is better. Frankly, the truth is that as long as you have an acceptable ‘minimum’ caliber for self defense, your shot placement of your bullet is the most important factor. The suggested calibers include from smallest to largest .380 ACP, 9x18mm Makarov, 9x19mm Luger, .38 special .40 SW, and .45ACP and .357 magnum. Keep in mind ammo cost. To be effective you MUST be able to use the gun in an emergency and hit your target. That only comes with training. 9x19mm is half the price as .357 magnum, which means that you can train twice as much with 9x19mm. However, 9x19 is about the same price, maybe a little cheaper, than .38 special to train with.
For a truly new shooter, my recommendations would be to stick with either .38sp, 9x18 or 9x19 (possibly .22 or .380 for a truly recoil sensitive shooter - but I don't go into this as most adults can learn to fire these main three calibers).
Here are my recommendations:
1. Work on getting your carry permit. It takes time and you’ll need to schedule a course and take your gun.
2. Go to a gun store with a wide variety. Handle a lot of guns. Here’s what I would hold, examine and buy, all within the $300-600 range. These are in no particular order.
a. Revolvers: .38 or .357 magnum – versatility to train with .38 special but shoot .357. .357 will have a lot of kick and I don’t recommend it for a new shooter. .38 is plenty sufficient and more affordable.
i. Ruger SP101
ii. Smith and Wesson model 10, model 64.
iii. Taurus or Rossi (more affordable, but still good revolvers)
b. Semi-auto handguns: I recommend sticking with either 9x18 Makarov or 9x19mm
i. CZ 75 P01 9x19mm
ii. CZ 82 9x18mm
iii. Smith and Wesson M&P compact or subcompact
iv. Springfield XD compact or subcompact
v. Glock G26 or 19
vi. Smith and Wesson 6906 9x19 (used a CDNN for $329)
vii. Sig Sauer P6 (used online for $400)
Note there is no *Magic bullet* for guns. Standard full metal jacket bullets will get the job done. If you want to spend more for quality hollow points, they are supposedly more effective at causing damage to an attacker. But keep in mind the most important bullet is the one that hits the target and that means you have to train.
I will also add that it may be a good idea to consider getting a dedicated .22 or a .22 upper receiver for your pistol for cheap training for shooters who are initially not accurate or cannot handle recoil. This will build confidence and muscle memory.
When you get your gun order a box of 1000 or more rounds (much cheaper that way) online and then go to the range and train train train. Go to your concealed carry class and get your permit ASAP.
Research and invest in a quality holster carry setup.
Finally, remember this rule in guns, magazines, and holsters: The cheap guy pays the most in the long run. I've bought plenty of cheap holsters and guns to know that you simply take a loss on them in the long run.