.308 Brass - What's Wrong with this Picture?

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djwalker60

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Greetings:

I am not too new to reloading .308 Winchester. But recently ran into a little problem. I have a Hornady Progressive reloader and use Lee dies for my .308. I have followed the instructions, I have deprimed, re-sized and chamfered the inside and outside of the brass. But yet on a recent batch of 100 rounds of .308 brass the rounds will NOT fully seat into either my Remington 700 or Ruger ScoutRifle. I am going to try and resize once again by running "down" my resizing down as far as I can to see if that helps. But I took a micrometer and measured. I measured a known good brass and the "bad" brass and measurements are same, well almost. So a picture is worth a thousand words.. Any thoughts as too why this would not load? The brass with the red line is the bad brass that will not feed. I did notice a slight difference in the taper of the neck.. Poor resizing? Could this be the culprit?
 

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I suspect the shoulders need to be pushed back a bit, and running your die down may do it. Have you actually followed the Lee directions for this die? They are good and usually provide for a SAAMI-spec case that will chamber in any rifle.
 
You also need to make a dummy ( no powder or primer ) round and cycle it thru both rifles before you proceed.
I also reload for 308 but only 40 rounds at a time on a single stage , It takes me while to do it and I could not afford that many rounds incorrectly done.
Good luck
 
Yes not fun to pull 100 rounds and then try again. I will try running down the resizing die as far as necessary to get that neck size down. I hope that is it. Maybe a bad bag of brass? I've reloaded about 700 rounds and over the course of time I've learned a few things and have not had this issue before.

Oh, Note: I did a dummy (we'll I think so) on this set of reloads. I "crimped" maybe I over crimped thus deforming the neck. My other rounds I did NOT crimp. We'll Now why did i crimp this time and not the others? Good question,..... I guess I was reading something, but I guess I should have stayed the course. But on the subject of crimping.... I've read it could actually help in accuracy.. True? or yet another tale...
 
Remember that the chamber length is on the shoulder and not on the end of the neck. One easy solution is to buy a RCBS case micrometer on eBay for about $58 and you can easily determine what is happening. If you set your sizer die to the "0" measurement on the micrometer it removes all guessing. The "0" reading is about .003 longer than a new case and about .002 shorter than a fired case. Shooter
 
May want to use a case gauge aas well...I reload a LOT of 30.06 and use the gauge after resizing and then again after loading. For my guns -- an M1 Garand and a Win 70 (bolt) if it fits in the gauge it always chambers.
 
A cheaper tool is the 20$ lyman case gage - great thing to have. Checks for diameters, headspace, and OAL.

And in case you do make a batch that is not sized correctly (I have never done that :D ) the redding body die will easily get you back on track.
 
That is what I am thinking. By crimping I've created a bulge in the brass thus deforming the neck area. I'll do my best to try and resize again. But if it is a real "pain" :banghead: I will just scrap the entire 100 rounds of brass. Like taking 35.00 and putting it in the trash.. But if I am unable to use them then the lot is useless.

Regards
Dan
 
Progressive Press Problems ???

djwalker60 ......

I am not familiar with the Hornady progressive press. However, some progressive presses have VERY unusual symptoms when ALL of the starions are not adjusted correctly.

reloading%20ammunition.jpg

This case was resized with a Dillon progressive press. The powder measure "height" incorrectly set when switching from handgun calibers to a rifle caliber.
Pretty fancy handload aye?

.
 
A cheaper tool is the 20$ lyman case gage - great thing to have. Checks for diameters, headspace, and OAL.

Shoulder position and overall length, yes. Diameters, no. Rifle case gauges are generally cut generously in the diameter of the body.

Check the manufacturer's description and specifications.
 
Progressive presses can be tricky ...

243winxb .... +1 .... there's no need to crimp a .308 Win.

Most dies are designed to be used with a common shellholder, and most progressive presses use shell plates. That could position your sizing die low enough to crimp your cases by surprise.

It's also important to know how far your shoulder is being pushed back. Excessive shoulder clearance can cause case head separation. This is a good thing for all handloaders to measure - and minimize.
 
Yes I did trim all of the brass down to the correct size. I use my RCBS Trim Pro Case Trimmer. I will try to resize again a few of the cases to see what happens when I adjust the full length sizing die I have from Lee. Basically my process is this:

  1. Re-size and De-Prime in one step via the Lee Full Size Die
  2. Sonic Clean for about 40 Minutes
  3. Trim Cases to length and chamfer inside and outside of case
  4. Tumble the case to polish and hopfully deburr the cases from trimming

A long process, but necessary. However this bugs me because the distortion of the cases were not really visible. Yet another lesson learned.
 
djwalker60 ......

Your die height is important, and a progressive press requires extra attention in setting die height correctly. You already mentioned that you have experience reloading, and that led me think about all of the problems that even experienced reloaders run into with progressive presses.

Verify the height setting on ALL of your dies.
 
Agree, everyone learns something through out any process. :confused: Re-loading is no exception. I will look at the height of my resizing die and give it a try.

Thank You for all of the valuable input. :)


Dan
 
When you super the to images over each other, the shoulder on the case with the red line looks too aggressive.

But, if they aren't lined up 100%, that's not the precision tool it could be.... but I would still suggest checking the shoulders.

A note on case mouths- thats a LOT of chamfer ! I mean, A LOT. I have serious doubts that could be causing the problem, but thats very heavy !
 
Necks do thicken after a number of firings, especially right at the junction between the neck and the shoulder. This is caused by the body brass tending to flow forward under the pressure and heat of firing, as well as by the brass being drawn forward in successive sizing operations.

So it sounds possible that it's time for a little neck reaming. The last neck-sizing operation before charging and seating is the neck expansion, which would make the outside diameter of the neck oversized if the neck brass is too thick. Then you seat a bullet and the OD of the neck gets even greater.

" I measured a known good brass and the "bad" brass and measurements are same, well almost."

Once again the brass "accumulates," especially at that junction between the neck and the shoulder, which is difficult to measure and makes the brass difficult to chamber.

I had to inside-neck ream some .243 Win brass with a Letter "C" drill bit in my lathe to do this to eliminate that inside bump at that point. There doesn't seem to be a drill bit size corresponding to exactly .308, --Letter "N" and 5/16" bits fall on both sides of .308".

Forster, Wilson, and others make hand-operated inside-neck reamers/lathes. An example, from Forster:

NECK_REAMER_ACC_300.jpg


This one will also length-trim the cases in the same operation by the setting the locking collar appropriately.

Do you know the history of that brass? It doesn't look as if it's been reloaded a number of times, but it could have been tumbled to clean it up.

I also noticed that the extraction cannelure is a little deeper and wider than the "feedable" brass, but I don't see that affecting the chambering.

Terry, 230RN
 
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It has become the norm for reloaders, full length sizing to minimal length has become a lost art, I measure before and again after, if a case whips my press I know it, when my press wins I am not surprised.

With the minimum investment in tools and more time searching for answers that do not start with “Have I got a deal for you, let me sell you my tool... etc...” or “you gotta screw the die down more, start with 1/4” then continue until the top of the press is put into a 9 line bind (oil field talk_).

Again, I measure before and again after, I measure the length of the chamber from the bolt face to its shoulder first, I know how to adjust my die to achieve the desired length of the case from the head of the case to its should if I do not choose to use cases that have more resistance to sizing than the ability of my press to overcome the resistance.

Not all of my presses have the same ability to overcome resistance, I am not the fan of abusing a press.

Again, my favorite tool for overcoming the dies inability to overcome resistance and chamber length is the companion tool to the press, the feeler gage. Inability and chamber length, that would include chamber that are .012” shorter than a minimum length case to a +.016” longer than a minimum length/full length sized case without grinding the bottom of the die and or top of the shell holder, that includes the need for Redding Competition shell holders, expensive but not necessary, nice to have? Still not necessary.

F. Guffey
 
Are you lubing inside of the case mouth I have had cases on the out stroke get real sticky and have enough pull to make them to long by streching neck back out.
 
“I also noticed that the extraction canelure is a little deeper and wider than the "feedable" brass, but I don't see that affecting the chambering”

If you did not measure the depth and the width of the extractor grove first a difference will not have a value, The extractor grove would not get deeper and or wider? with heavy loads you would have just the opposite effect, again, Who measures? I thought there was a difference extractor groves, all my shell holders are not alike, there are some shell holders that allow me to shorten the deck height of the shell holder, lowering the deck height allows me to increase the effect of sizing overcoming case resistance to sizing, some shell holders do not offer the advantage, but offer other advantages. Lowering the deck height of the shell holder also allows me to increase the dies ability to shorten the case from the head of the case to its shoulder.

It does not take me long to look at it, I know when my press whips the case, I know when the case whips my press.

I start by knowing if my die has the ability to size a case to minimum length/full length size. I have Herters dies, Pacific dies, Weatherby dies, Hornady dies, Hollywood Gun Shop dies, Lyman dies, C&H dies, Lochmiller dies, Texan dies, I do not have to start over when I change dies, I simply adjust my sizer die to or off the shell holder every time I use them, and I do not secure the lock ring to the die, I secure the die to the press with the lock ring.

F. Guffey
 
Had the same thing happen years ago using Lee dies. Was an intermitant problem, Went away when I switched to RCBS dies.
 
Are you lubing inside of the case mouth I have had cases on the out stroke get real sticky and have enough pull to make them to long by streching neck back out.

+1
Too much or too little lube can cause all kinds of unexpected problems. Do not lube the shoulders or outside of necks.
 
I read twice, but I still might have missed this: are you having trouble chambering your resized brass or your loaded cartridges? If it is loaded cartridges, you could have your bullets seated too far out. There should be tell-tale marks on the bullet itself where it has engaged the rifling if that is the problem. If you are using pulled military bullets or the bulk FMJ 145-150gr type bullets, sometimes the ogives aren't quite as uniform as they might be no a match bullet, and some bullets might engage the rifling while others might not, even if they have the same OAL.

It might be worth trying to chamber your resized brass which could also tell you if your problems have to do with some sort of problem with the neck thickness or crimp. If the resized, unloaded cases won't load, it probably has to do with the shoulder being too far forward.
 
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