Mosin Nagant bolt groups interchangable?

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Orion8472

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Can you swap out the bolt assembly between two Mosin Nagants, or would there be a headspace issue doing so? If I have two M44's [1944 and 1046] and wanted to put all the nice parts in one [and have an extra "lesser" rifle], could that be done?

Thanks.
 
This won't affect headspace, as long as the bolts arent ridiculously worn out. Headspace is a match between barrel and receiver, bolts have little affect on this. Swap away...
 
I was kinda thinking that. The numbers of these they put out, and in the quickness required, I couldn't imagine them making a solitary bolt group for a specific rifle. I was thinking that they probably had a bunch and put them together assembly line style. Of course, I don't know if they DID, but I could see it happening that way.

The two bolt groups I have were identical, so I will try it out. Anyway, I put the best stock with the best looking metal and bolt. It has a very shiney bore. The other one's bore is dull and a bit pitted. Still shoots fine, but will use it for when I shoot corrosive rounds [still cleaning it after, of course].
 
Headspace is a match between barrel and receiver, bolts have little affect on this
Thats not true.
With a rimmed caliber like the 7.62x54R, headspace is a match between the breechface of the barrel and the bolt face.

With any rimless caliber, headspace is a match between the chamber shoulder and the bolt face.

Where the bolt locks into the receiver can have a profound effect on that.
And different bolts may or may not lock in the same relationship with the breechface due to wear, lug set-back inside the receiver, or different specs on two different bolts made years apart.

Whether or not all Mosin bolts were exactly the same over the 54 years it was produced is open to speculation. My guess is they are not.

Use a headspace gage to check it if you swap bolts.

Here is a good read on it:
http://www.russian-mosin-nagant.com/headspace.htm

rc
 
Thats not true. With a rimmed caliber like the 7.62x54R, headspace is a match between the breechface of the barrel and the bolt face.

It's not entirely false either, a barrel set too far back it wont close, and too far forward the headspace will be too great and dangerous to fire. After reading the link RC put it up it does make sense to get it headspaced first...
 
If the bolt is hard to close, afte changeing bolt heads, its a bit tight, if the cartride shakes adibly, its a bit loos, but the critical point is the Rim space, where the headspace is mesured. Its mesurement is standard on the ammo and the bolt heads.

99% of all Mosin Bolt heads will exchange, no problem, but theres always a few worn out ones, as they were made by humans and all thier inherent faults.

They make a simple gauge, so while its not a concern, its is checkable , for safety sake.
 
Zebras

The odds that hoofbeats outside your window are caused by zebras is pretty slim, but there is always a minuscule probability (circus train derails, clowns try to escape on zebras... :p ). The odds that a Mosin will blow up after I switch bolts is enormous; don't put yourself in my place... :cool:
 
D'uh.

Assuming that they were each properly headspaced to start with, take the bolt head or face from the rifle you intend to be the one you use, and the bolt body from the other rifle, if this is what you choose, and assemble them.

The headspace is determined by that little bolt head with the extractor claw in it, not the bolt body or the striker. If you use the same bolt head (the part with the extractor) from the rifle it was properly headspaced from, you should be good to go.

HTH.
 
I'm sure there were a lot of battlefield parts swaps I wouldn't worry about it too much.

It's a different matter when people are actively shooting at you vs wanting to spend an afternoon at the range...

OP: the bolt head is the part that matters for headspace. That's the bit with the extractor claw and the two ears that locks into the receiver. You can swap everything else, just keep the bolt head matched to the rifle it came with. Be sure to check firing pin protrusion afterwards.
 
Very good posts, guys. I will switch the bolt faces and call it good. :)

So, here's what I had:

M44 #1: Niice original wood and finish, nice looking bolt carrier.

M44 #2: Nice metal, MUCH shiner and clean bore.

So now, M44 #1 has all the nice parts, and I have a second one for most of the shooting.
 
I have four Mosins: a 1915 White Westinghouse, a 1936 Izzy, a '39 Tula and a '44 Izzy. Just on a lark one day, I removed all the extractors and dug out my no-go gauge and started checking headspace, and then swapping bolt assemblies and checking again. Sure enough, they were all within spec, there was no noticeable difference at all in fact. Nice to know. Just wanted to throw my two cents in.
 
Wow! Over such a relatively large amount of time, being basically the same. Quite interesting. Thanks for your input. :)
 
Made the bolt head switch, last night. It was a bit of luck. Internet was down, so I didn't have that advantage of finding a "how to". But saw that the back part of the carrier could be pulled backwards, and by chance, I moved it counter clockwise 1/4, and discovered the key to taking it apart.

Now, I have one pretty nice M44 {made in 1946}, and one "beater" {made in 1944} ["beater" meaning, the one I'll shoot more. . . and run corrosive through, if I choose to use such rounds, since it's bore is already rather pitted and dull].

One thing though. The 1944 rifle has a C.A.I. import etching on the left side of the receiver. The 1946 rifle doesn't seem to have any etchings. Just the normal Russian stampings.
 
Other than the left part of the receiver, where else would an importer etching be? I will look again on this 1946 rifle, but didn't see one where the 1944 rifle was etched.
 
Depending upon who the importer was and when it was imported, markings could be anywhere if at all.

A couple of importers were really good at putting their stamp out of the way under furniture but the feds put a stop to that. Also they ended the practice of the lightly struck micro stamps which were hard to see in the first place and easily removed if bothersome. My SKS has one of these which presents more as a minor blemish than anything else.
 
I will give it a good look over tonight. If it doesn't have any importation etchings on it, does that make it more valuable, or just more rare and a conversation piece?
 
Headspace is the difference between the face of the bolt HEAD and the back of the chamber. The head is a separate part. The 54R is very tolerant of chamber variations but it does need to have a proper rim fit. Most of the time you can get away with swapping bolts but you should check headspace to be sure.

Or you can just follow stubbicatt's solution.
 
I will give it a good look over tonight. If it doesn't have any importation etchings on it, does that make it more valuable, or just more rare and a conversation piece?
I don't think the importers were required to mark their guns until after the GCA of 1968. I have a couple of surplus guns bought prior to 1968 with no markings.
 
Import marks used to be placed toward the end of the barrel. If not on the receiver, that's the next place to look.
 
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