easy way to remove/disable sizing ring in FCD?

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1KPerDay

1KPerDay

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I use the FCD in several calibers and like it, primarily because I can straighten the case and/or semi-crimp with the seating die and crimp with the FCD. But in .38 Special the post sizing ring is so snug It's causing problems. I tried the standby "get rid of it/it's garbage/learn how to reload" option but I can't get my wadcutters to seat and crimp at the same time (this type has crimp groove) without mangling and smearing to some extent. I know all you experts have no trouble with it but I am.

What I prefer is to have control over it and seat and crimp separately. I realize I could just buy a separate crimp die but I'm cheap and would like to try to make this work first.

Thanks for any input.
 
Check this link!

Take a look at this short paper. Hope it helps you understand the process.

Getting the crimp right is a big problem for many starting out. You can crimp/seat in two operations with a standard seating/crimping die if you make two setups. Seat first without crimping, then crimp with the seater punch backed out. I prefer to seat and crimp in one operation. I have never had, nor do I expect to buy a FCD.
 
I understand the operation and have made it work fine in .380 and 9mm. With these diameter bullets with a crimp groove, it's just not as neat as I'd like. The rounds chamber fine and I'm sure they'll be accurate. But I'd prefer not to have small bits of lead smeared around the crimp/groove to cause fouling. Maybe I'll try knocking out the sizing ring. It's gotta be in there pretty good.....
 
But I'd prefer not to have small bits of lead smeared around the crimp/groove to cause fouling. Maybe I'll try knocking out the sizing ring. It's gotta be in there pretty good...
Click to expand...

Thats not a crimp operation problem :D
 
Just did this with all my LFC dies. 357 Mag, 44, and 45 Colt. Place the die in a vise -- make sure you protect the threads. Drop an empty case of the correct caliber in the die mouth first -- the case head will stop on the ring. Take a wide punch and give it a sharp whack. The ring will come out with the case.
 
Muddydogs said:
So are we taper crimping rounds designed for roll crimps now?
Click to expand...
I was thinking the exact same thing. I like the Redding Profile Crimp die for 38/357. On another set, I've replaced the Lee seater with a Hornady and used the Lee seater for roll crimping only by backing the adjuster way out. Seems to work ok.
 
I do. I roll the case mouth over the top of the bullet. Some of my 38 cases have really poor neck tension! Actually planning to scrap them all and use only 357 brass. I'm tired of messing with my die adjustments, anyways.
 
I do. I roll the case mouth over the top of the bullet. Some of my 38 cases have really poor neck tension! Actually planning to scrap them all and use only 357 brass. I'm tired of messing with my die adjustments, anyways.
Click to expand...

I guess i have tried it every which way, but in my 686 they shoot best with no crimp, and just a touch of lead above the case mouth, basically the bevel on the DEWC only sticking out. I have never had neck tension issues with the DEWC, just because they are so long and go so far into the case.

I used to load with only 357 cases, but I have literally, 10s of 1000s 38 cases. I cant see putting the wear and tear on my 357 cases when the 38s are so plentiful.
 
RB98SS said:
Just did this with all my LFC dies. 357 Mag, 44, and 45 Colt. Place the die in a vise -- make sure you protect the threads. Drop an empty case of the correct caliber in the die mouth first -- the case head will stop on the ring. Take a wide punch and give it a sharp whack. The ring will come out with the case.
Click to expand...
This is a good tip.

The first one I did (45 ACP), I used a socket wrench extension (for a 3/8" I believe) and it caught on the ring. Couple of raps with the hammer and out came the ring.

The next one was on a 44Mag/Spl die. Tried the same thing and the ring would not come out. It fought me the whole way. Felt like it was welded in there. Eventually it came out, but I actually buggered up the die threads in the vise during this process. Had to get out a triangle file and clean them up, but it's fine now.

I've got one on a set of 38/357 dies that needs to be popped out. It is swaging down bullets when I run the loaded round up into the die. I'll try the empty case and punch method this time!
 
1KPerDay said:
Mouth first through the top.of the die, right?.
Click to expand...
Yep, unscrew (remove) the crimp plunger and drop the case mouth first into the top of the die. It should drop thru but the head should catch on the ring. Better use a sized case or it might not drop to the head. ;)
 
So are we taper crimping rounds designed for roll crimps now?
Click to expand...
Silly me. I read the 2nd post recommending the Lee taper crimp die, and responded without reading the entire 1st post. :eek:

But yes, I do taper crimp some .38 Spl loads, 148 Gr WC's being one, and plated bullets in general. I also recommend the Redding Profile Crimp die, along with RCBS seaters sans the seater plug, as both roll crimp very nicely. :)
 
You can remove the ring using your press rather than a vise if you want. just screw it in securely and put a piece of wood or such under the die in the ram area to stop things from denting the press.
 
RB98SS said:
Yep, unscrew (remove) the crimp plunger and drop the case mouth first into the top of the die. It should drop thru but the head should catch on the ring. Better use a sized case or it might not drop to the head. ;)
Click to expand...
This worked a treat, thanks.

Those who suggested the FCD was not (solely) the cause of my troubles were right. I have it dialed in better now... Seating die doing a light roll crimp.... Which is likely sufficient, and the former FCD now taper crimp just giving a gentle nudge. With mixed brass, not trimmed, this produces satisfactory results.
 
You can remove the ring using your press rather than a vise if you want. just screw it in securely and put a piece of wood or such under the die in the ram area to stop things from denting the press.
Click to expand...

FROGO207, using the press to remove the carbide ring sounds like an elegant solution, but from your description I'm having a hard time picturing the process. I get that the die gets screwed into the press, but wouldn't that have the ram pushing the carbide ring farther up into the die body? Do you screw the die in upside down, from the bottom? Since the ram won't fit into the die, what is it that's pushing the ring out? Does the ring pop out the top?

If you could provide some detail I'd appreciate it.
 
I'm guessing the wood is just there in case something slips through the die when the ring lets go, as you drive the ring out through the top of the die with a punch or similar.

Basically just using the turret or frame of the press to hold the die securely so you can drive out the ring from above in the usual fashion.
 
1K has the process down.:) That was what I was intending to convey but a little lacking for the explanation. Using the press would hold the die firmly and keep the threads on the die from getting buggered up like they would if clamped in a vise.
 
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