The RUGER OLD ARMY Club
- Thread starter ClemBert
- Start date
The-Reaver
Member
whitetailbob
Member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2013
- Messages
- 19
how do you like those grip's and how do they fit on the gun is the fit good thanks
The-Reaver
Member
Me?
My grips are comfy. They are firm, more like plastic base.
I like um, help when your going through the Florida swamps. Wood and rubber have a tendency to break down.
Patocazador
Member
Patocazador
Member
Update on Doak's capsules using Black Horn 209
This is a quick update concerning the use of heavy hunting bullets with BH209 and small rifle primers in the ROA using Doak's capsules.
I've been trying to get a consistent accurate load for deer hunting with the ROA using the black powder substitute Black Horn 209. After going through at least a dozen combinations, I found one that may prove to be what I'm looking for.
This target was shot with:
255 gr. hand-cast lead flat-nosed bullet
20.0 grains of BH 209 by weight
Remington # 7 1/2 small rifle primers
Distance 35 yards with 2-handed hold.
First shot was low at 6:00, next 3 shots measured 3/4", last shot just cupped the upper edge of the target at 11:00. Last 4 shots = 3" group. All 5 shots = 6 1/2".
I will try another load of 20.3 grains but that may be all that I can fit in the chamber using the 255 gr. bullet.
This is a quick update concerning the use of heavy hunting bullets with BH209 and small rifle primers in the ROA using Doak's capsules.
I've been trying to get a consistent accurate load for deer hunting with the ROA using the black powder substitute Black Horn 209. After going through at least a dozen combinations, I found one that may prove to be what I'm looking for.
This target was shot with:
255 gr. hand-cast lead flat-nosed bullet
20.0 grains of BH 209 by weight
Remington # 7 1/2 small rifle primers
Distance 35 yards with 2-handed hold.
First shot was low at 6:00, next 3 shots measured 3/4", last shot just cupped the upper edge of the target at 11:00. Last 4 shots = 3" group. All 5 shots = 6 1/2".
I will try another load of 20.3 grains but that may be all that I can fit in the chamber using the 255 gr. bullet.
Beetle Bailey
Member
Here's my blued Ruger Old Army with 7.5" barrel and adjustable sights. I think it was made in 1982 based on the serial number and I picked it up late last year. Previous owner(s) mostly took good care of it, except they put a few dings in the frame apparently trying to unscrew the latch that holds the base pin.
Regardless, it functions fine and the bore is in good shape. Previous owner must have been shooting it with 25 grains FFFg and a round ball since that is what the sights are regulated at. I've gone up to 35 grains FFFg so far and of course there were no problems. Plan to mainly use it to ring steel plates at 35 yards and the 25 grain charge was just fine for that although I do need more practice as I only hit it half the time
Regardless, it functions fine and the bore is in good shape. Previous owner must have been shooting it with 25 grains FFFg and a round ball since that is what the sights are regulated at. I've gone up to 35 grains FFFg so far and of course there were no problems. Plan to mainly use it to ring steel plates at 35 yards and the 25 grain charge was just fine for that although I do need more practice as I only hit it half the time
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This is a quick update concerning the use of heavy hunting bullets with BH209 and small rifle primers in the ROA using Doak's capsules.
I've been trying to get a consistent accurate load for deer hunting with the ROA using the black powder substitute Black Horn 209. After going through at least a dozen combinations, I found one that may prove to be what I'm looking for.
This target was shot with:
255 gr. hand-cast lead flat-nosed bullet
20.0 grains of BH 209 by weight
Remington # 7 1/2 small rifle primers
Distance 35 yards with 2-handed hold.
First shot was low at 6:00, next 3 shots measured 3/4", last shot just cupped the upper edge of the target at 11:00. Last 4 shots = 3" group. All 5 shots = 6 1/2".
I will try another load of 20.3 grains but that may be all that I can fit in the chamber using the 255 gr. bullet.
CAUTION: The following post includes loading data not recommended for Ruger Old Army. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The High Road, nor the staff of THR assume any liability for any damage or injury resulting from use of this information.
***************
Since you have Doak’s adaptors so you can use standard primers, would be OK to use standard loads for 45 Colt, max pressure 14,000 PSI?
If I remembered correctly (I have no caliper at home today), ROA has wall thickness between chambers .065”; this is the same thickness as on full size NM BH in 45 Colt. According to one old article, ROA cylinder was made from the same steel as cylinders for other Ruger revolvers. If this is correct, in that case standard loads for 45 Colt shouldn’t be problem, but under one condition; after bullet is pressed in, powder space must be at least the same, or larger than in 45 Colt case for the same bullet and the same load.
The family is growing
Here's an updated pic that now includes my newest ROA (in blue) as well as having polished both SS models and going back to the factory walnut grips on one that had the ugly Pachmayr grips on it.
Still looking to add more....
Here's an updated pic that now includes my newest ROA (in blue) as well as having polished both SS models and going back to the factory walnut grips on one that had the ugly Pachmayr grips on it.
Still looking to add more....
Patocazador
Member
I have a conversion cylinder for my ROA that I occasionally shoot .45 Colt loads using up to 8.5 gr. of Unique with a 255 gr. SWC. I usually shoot hand cast 255 gr. pure lead FN bullets in a Starline case with 22.2 gr. of BlackHorn 209. I only have one ROA and see no real purpose in using it with maximum .45 Colt loads. I have a Blackhawk in .45 Colt for that.
The reason for the hunting load in the ROA using Doak's capsules and BlackHorn 209 is to give reliable ignition using an essentially non-corrosive powder. That combo is legal here but any cartridge or smokeless powder wouldn't be in primitive weapons season.
Doak
Member
OK. If we're talking about using smokeless loads w/primer capsules, that's not a good idea.
It has nothing to do w/the quality/strength of modern steel, cylinder wall thickness, 14,000 psi., or etc., etc.
The entire issue relates to the nipple threads at the rear of the ROA cylinder(s). Hot, high pressure smokeless gasses will fire-cut thru any threads, let alone the 12 -28 fine nipple threads, and blow out the nipples/capsules, from thread failure. Maybe not at first, but the temptation to use more powerful combinations is tuff to resist. My advise, whatever it's value, would be to not even go there w/smokeless.
The brass cartridge case solved this problem by making an expandable seal, of the case wall, against the inside of the chamber, not allowing any gas to escape and fire-cut it's way to the outside.
BP can't develope the pressure & heat to fire-cut. Although I have seen a poorly fitted nipple blow out of a percussion rifle using BP. Lotta racket & disappointment over that incident...
Kindest Regards,
Doak
It has nothing to do w/the quality/strength of modern steel, cylinder wall thickness, 14,000 psi., or etc., etc.
The entire issue relates to the nipple threads at the rear of the ROA cylinder(s). Hot, high pressure smokeless gasses will fire-cut thru any threads, let alone the 12 -28 fine nipple threads, and blow out the nipples/capsules, from thread failure. Maybe not at first, but the temptation to use more powerful combinations is tuff to resist. My advise, whatever it's value, would be to not even go there w/smokeless.
The brass cartridge case solved this problem by making an expandable seal, of the case wall, against the inside of the chamber, not allowing any gas to escape and fire-cut it's way to the outside.
BP can't develope the pressure & heat to fire-cut. Although I have seen a poorly fitted nipple blow out of a percussion rifle using BP. Lotta racket & disappointment over that incident...
Kindest Regards,
Doak
I understand your concerns regarding overloading ROA with smokeless powders. It is dangerous possibility. But, is this very same dangerous possibility while reloading any cartridge, and we still reload?
Also, shouldn’t be the stress on the firearm with max. pressure of 14,000 PSI with BP same as 14,000 PSI using smokeless?
I agree that another issue is the burning temperature of the certain smokeless powders when compared with BP. I have special concern about using double based powders. They generally have higher burning temperatures than single based. For that reason I avoid double base powders after seeing what they could do to a revolver after prolonged shooting, and 99% were target loads.
Now, we all assume that its OK to use BP substitutes in BP guns. Aren’t they actually smokeless with additives to make lot of smoke?
The reason for all this is our situation in northern areas; we have almost six months of winter, and shooting BP or BP substitutes is a big no-no in indoor ranges.
Heck, make us this:
And all problems solved
, I will be first in line for two.Doak
Member
Hey Onty ~
Nice drawing! I noticed that there are NO THREADS at the rear of the cylinder!
We're talkin' about makin' a complete replacement cylinder here. Where the primer cup makes the pressure seal.
I'm not set up to make that beautiful arrangement. I don't have enuff machinery & funding to take on that wonderful project. I wish I did! And I see a way to improve it, too.
What's keepin' you from makin' it?
Kindest Regards,
Doak
Nice drawing! I noticed that there are NO THREADS at the rear of the cylinder!
We're talkin' about makin' a complete replacement cylinder here. Where the primer cup makes the pressure seal.
I'm not set up to make that beautiful arrangement. I don't have enuff machinery & funding to take on that wonderful project. I wish I did! And I see a way to improve it, too.
What's keepin' you from makin' it?
Kindest Regards,
Doak
HUnter58
Member
Thread will show when drawing is created, this is just snapshot of 3D model cut.
As for sealing, idea was to use shotgun 209 primers, or small pistol/rifle adaptors like these:
http://www.prbullet.com/vf.htm
Unfortunately, I do not have machines to manufacture such cylinder.
Well, looks like that if anybody wants to make such cylinder, patent owner should be contacted first.
EDITED: Seems to me that Kenny Howell from Howell Old West Conversions LLC. is the right person to contact regarding patent rights and manufacturing of the cylinder for smokeless powders in modern BP revolvers. I will try to contact him by phone to confirm this.
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white smoke
Member
Now that's an interesting piece.
Beetle Bailey
Member
Oh, sweet! For some reason, they only made the bi-centennial model for one year
Anyways, I took my Old Army out for another range trip and caught the attention of a nice family (father, mother, son, and daughter) so I gave them a quick lesson on cap and ball revolvers and they all got to try a few shots. They all loved it!
Anyways, I took my Old Army out for another range trip and caught the attention of a nice family (father, mother, son, and daughter) so I gave them a quick lesson on cap and ball revolvers and they all got to try a few shots. They all loved it!
SUMIKITO
Member
Plastic or nylon nipple caps/protectors.....Huh?
Karlthev: If it's the Ruger Old Army and its nipples that you want to protect from nipple damage, well the facts are that a properly working Old Army with the 'correct' nipples, be they original Ruger brand or perfect aftermarket replacement types needs no protection. None, Nada, Zilch! The hammer on a proper and good working Old Army just baaaarellllly touches the nipple. If it does a tiny little bit, and sometimes happens when these are brand new, leave it alone. Not to worry. That is just fine. No harm will be done. The hammer tip on an Old Army, besides the sear, is the hardest part of the Old Army. The Old Army, and its firing/hammer mechanism is so precisely machined and put together with such tight tolerances that a lot of folks out there worry needlessly about stuff like these. Once your nipple is capped, it raises the surface a bit higher for the hammer tip to 'crush' that cap and hence fire it. "Precision!" The Ruger Old Army, built like a tank, with the precision of a swiss watch. Are we lucky or what?.......... Fire away my friend, worry not.
Karlthev: If it's the Ruger Old Army and its nipples that you want to protect from nipple damage, well the facts are that a properly working Old Army with the 'correct' nipples, be they original Ruger brand or perfect aftermarket replacement types needs no protection. None, Nada, Zilch! The hammer on a proper and good working Old Army just baaaarellllly touches the nipple. If it does a tiny little bit, and sometimes happens when these are brand new, leave it alone. Not to worry. That is just fine. No harm will be done. The hammer tip on an Old Army, besides the sear, is the hardest part of the Old Army. The Old Army, and its firing/hammer mechanism is so precisely machined and put together with such tight tolerances that a lot of folks out there worry needlessly about stuff like these. Once your nipple is capped, it raises the surface a bit higher for the hammer tip to 'crush' that cap and hence fire it. "Precision!" The Ruger Old Army, built like a tank, with the precision of a swiss watch. Are we lucky or what?.......... Fire away my friend, worry not.
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SUMIKITO
Member
White Smoke; Nice looking two-tone you put together. Used to do that sort of thing a long time ago but with S&W revolvers of every caliber. Those two-tones are in a word....NEAT! Best regards.......
white smoke
Member
Sumikito, thanks, I just don't like the aluminum grip frame for some reason. It started with this old New Model Blackhawk. Cruising the isles of a gun show a fella had this stainless frame with the rounded butt and grips for $50. I grabbed it & put it on the gun. Ejector rod housing is polished.
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