How many times do you reload different brass

It really depends on how hot you load it and the manufacturer of the brass. I have reloaded some of my HXP brass 6 times and it is still going strong. I had some FC brass that was only loaded 4 time before some splits occured, but that is a little unusual. I only load mid-range values...never hot.

Most of my loads are for plinking, so pretty moderate loads for me also. I have some .223 that have 10 loadings. I have a batch of .308 on #8.

I have some Garand only .30-06 brass that is on 5 or 6 loadings.

I case check and trim when needed, you need to know what to look for and the signs of seperation (the old paper clip method works). I mark up brass that have loose primer pockets, sharpie works great for that.

Garand loads are pretty mild, you should get good life on your brass.

The real fun and savings is with pistol ammo, I have a batch of .45 cases that have been used so many times I can hardly make out the headstamps.

When it comes to rifle brass, I never turn up a good deal to buy more.

There is no magic number.
You should always inspect your brass before you load it no matter how many loadings you're on. If the neck splits or it shows signs of case head separation, toss it in the recycling bucket.
I actually don't even keep track of the number of loadings. They just all get hand inspected.

How loose is too loose on primer pockets. I have some brass that is easier to place primer in but shows no other signs of excess ware. If primer pocket "tension" changes do you throw them in the recycle bin? I have Hornady Brass that is on it's 4th or 5th reload. I've been told that's too many times and want to confirm that information with others. Also what would happen to me or the rifle if I get a case head separation? I'm happy to change brass if I need to. Some folks were saying Hornady brass is "crap" and should only be reloaded once. Others say wait till the neck splits.

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If you get zero resistance when seating a primer, that is too loose. If the resistance seems lighter than the other cases you are loading, mark that case and make that the last loading for it. Regarding case head separation, as Arkansas Paul said, inspect your cases for an impending case head separation (shiny line encircling the case about a 1/4" above the extractor groove), as these don't typically happen out of the clear blue. Inspecting your brass will tell you when they need to be culled.

Don

"How many times do you reload different brass
I am relatively knew and want to know how many times I should reload Hornady Brass before tossing it. I am getting some HXP to reload soon, but for now only have the hornady and some remmington 30-06 for an M1 Garand. I use 46gr of Varget and 168gr hpbt match bullets.

Tnx for any advice.. Maq"

There are too many variables in the mix for me or anyone to make that prediction.

As stated so well our fellow enthusiast above, it all comes down to what you start with, pressures and working.
An explanation or two:
I have .45ACP brass that was originally nichol plated but I have reloaded it so many times the nichol has worn off. Low pressures and little work harding of the brass.
I have 2 British 303 rifles. One has a long chamber, so my reloads must be full length sized every loading. I feel lucky to get 3 reloads (initial plus 3 reloads) before I have signs of head separation. Pressures are not the problem, case stretching is.
I have a .223 Rem with a very tight chamber and throat. I do little more than neck size the brass and anneal every 4th of 5th loading. I do check the web for internal roughness each reload and I get well over 30 reloads per case.

To you Garand. The rounds should be loaded conservatively or have a gas release plug. Minimal sizing and anneal the brass often. This should give longer brass life. How much? I can't say.

Hope you get the idea. Hot rod'n does take the life out of brass.

I have Hornady Brass that is on it's 4th or 5th reload. I've been told that's too many times and want to confirm that information with others.

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As I said, there's no magic number that's "too many times". As long as the integrity of the brass is good, load it and shoot it.

You can check for case head separation issues by looking closely at the brass 1/4" - 1/2" or so above the base, like Don said. Also, you can check the inside of the case by taking an ole wire coat hanger and bending one end to where it forms a small half hook. Insert it in the case all the way down and scrape it along the wall of the case to see if it catches on anything. If it does, there is a ring starting to form and case head separation is near. Discard that brass. If it doesn't hang on anything, load and shoot.

Some folks were saying Hornady brass is "crap" and should only be reloaded once.

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Hornady brass is good stuff, at least for rifle. There are some people who have issues with handgun brass but their issue is with the case length, not the quality of the brass.

Good advice so far. Brass can be reloaded until it shows signs of failure! You will extend brass life by neck or partial resizing of the case rather than full length resizing each time. If a primer seats too easily, hold the case at a slight angle and rap the edge of the rim sharply against your bench. If the primer shows signs of backing out, remove it from the case, crush the case and chuck it in the scrap bin. The removed primer can safely be used in another case. If the primer does not back out you can safely use that case one more time BUT it should be marked for disposal after it is fired.

What is the "old paper clip method"?

Potatohead said:

What is the "old paper clip method"?

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+1 would also like this info...

Russellc

Potatohead said:

What is the "old paper clip method"?

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You take a piece of wire about the diameter of a paper clip. Bend a small 90 degree hook in the end. You can then reach down into the case and scrape the inside of the case. If you are nearing a case head separation you will feel it down near the base of the case. The case thins near the base. The hook may even catch on a crack that is forming.

Many take an old paper clip and straighten it. I prefer to use stiffer wire like piano wire or tig welding wire.

http://www.thehighroad.org/attachmen...1&d=1355684152

My paper clip looks like this. I'm cheap and this is too but it works, I'm retired