Leather tools and leather for knife sheaths

Question, I really dislike the nylon sheath that came with a knife that was a gift. Could a tanned deer hide be cut and placed around some type of plastic "mold" then glued with a waterproof epoxy in layers to make it thicker and shaped to the mold? Then stitch it together, remove the mold then add your belt loop and retaining strap?

dumb question here...

Can somebody explain the measurement system for leather? I hear 9 ounce, but it doesn't mean anything to me... yet.

Is this something like shotgun gauge, where a gauge has a specific dimensional meaning related to weight, or is it totally arbitrary or not based on weight at all, or at least more indirectly, something like motor oil...

Question, I really dislike the nylon sheath that came with a knife that was a gift. Could a tanned deer hide be cut and placed around some type of plastic "mold" then glued with a waterproof epoxy in layers to make it thicker and shaped to the mold? Then stitch it together, remove the mold then add your belt loop and retaining strap?

Click to expand...

The traditional method is to use a rawhide liner. This is outlined in great detail in Alex Kozlov's excellent book.

http://amzn.com/1929572050

Can somebody explain the measurement system for leather? I hear 9 ounce, but it doesn't mean anything to me... yet.

Click to expand...

It's nominal weight per square foot. If you search online, you should be able to find a chart showing the average thicknesses. For example, I use 8-9oz for holsters and sheaths and it's around 1/8" thick. I use 13-14oz for gunbelts and it's about 1/4" thick.

Okay, thanks. I am no longer confused!

Now, what would be a good weight (now that I know what that means!) leather for a large frame auto holster? Just a simple as can be (okay, almost as simple as can be) owb belt holster? Possibly to be used for USPSA competition?

I don't know if I ever will, but I would love to get into leather working. Belts or holsters or sheaths or mag pouches... you get the idea.

The traditional method is to use a rawhide liner. This is outlined in great detail in Alex Kozlov's excellent book.

http://amzn.com/1929572050

Click to expand...

Thanks Craig.

Can somebody explain the measurement system for leather? I hear 9 ounce, but it doesn't mean anything to me... yet.

Click to expand...

In leather, one ounce = approximately 1/64" of thickness.

You beat me to it, HiWayMan. By a couple of days but I don't come here every day.

On the drilling stitching holes versus using a stabbing awl: I've sewed a lot of leather projects over the years with just an awl and still do when it's only double thickness things. Time and age are taking their toll and I decided I had to change something a few years ago when doing sewing involving a welt. Still use the sewing gouge and spacer wheel but I first drill all the holes with a 1/16" bit. Then I use the awl in the regular manner, stick it in a cake of beeswax and push it through the hole. I find this gives me the same stitch as if just using the awl. Can't tell a bit of difference. It takes a little longer but is much easier physically for me. I'm retired and do very little leatherwork anymore so the time factor isn't important.

When I do a welted holster or sheath, I glue the welt to the front side, punch my holes in the front and welt, then glue the two sides together. Then I even up the edges on the bench sander, then I cut the stitching groove on the back side. Only then do I punch the holes for the back side. So I'm not punching through more than two thicknesses at a time. A sharp awl blade coated in paraffin or beeswax keeps this from taking too much effort.

All you leatherworkers impress the hell out of me.
All I can do is fix stuff.
In my opinion, leatherworkers, blacksmiths, engravers, and woodworkers are artists of the highest degree.
My opinion only, and very biased.

Lined holster. 8-9 ounce outer, 4-5 ounce liner. (psssst! sewing machine)

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee189/redcent69/Leather/009_zpsdea639f1.jpg

That's a really good lookin' holster and I forgot to ask you before, do you have a pic of the back side?

Thanks to all you leather masters, especially rcmodel with his instructional posts. I've been thinking for a while of making my own holster and you guys convinced me to take a shot at it. I got the leather, made the pattern and got the leather cut out today for my first try. Actually, it's my second try, but we won't discuss the first.

My remaining question is; How do you put the finish on the edge? I got the sanding drum part for evening the edges, but the I haven't found any thing about finishing/sealing the edge.

I use this:

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/2225-122.aspx

Apply after sanding the edge smooth & even on a fine belt sander.

You can also use this or beeswax if you want to leave the edge natural leather color:
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/2620-140.aspx

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/2014-00.aspx

rc

I bevel all my edges with a Bissonnette style edge beveler and sand the mainseam even on a bench sander. Then I dye it and slick/burnish all edges with gum trag. I like for my edges to be the same color as the rest so I don't use any of the edge finishing products. Then everything gets finished with Fiebing's Bag Kote.

When I was making knives ,there was a Tandy shop about 10 miles away where I bought my sheath making supplies. I used 7to 9 oz. leather which I bought by the "side". I made a funcitional sheath with NO tooling but it was great to be able to purchase supplies locally.

Thank you gentlemen.