School Me - What is the point of a big 'ol rail?

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The_Next_Generation

The_Next_Generation

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Hey all,

So I traded for a pretty dang nice AR15 a few months back. It shoots great and I have gone out to 650 yards with it so far. The thing is that its real heavy (9.5lbs scoped). Part of the problem is of course the barrel (White Oak 18" SPR-type-thingy) but I like it's accuracy. The other problem is the rail, which is what I'd like to ask about.

Its a Daniel Defense 14" Lite rail. It looks SUPER cool, but I just don't need this much rail-estate! I know the military guys and other "operators" have a need for it, but this rifle is more of a hunting/target shooting firearm. I would like something along the lines of a Troy TRX as this would save 8oz or so and would also allow for a much more comfortable grip without all those bulky panels (can you say "cheese-grater"?).

The thing is, is that I would have to sell this rail to fund the new one. The DD is VERY solid and from what I have read is extremely durable. Add in the fact that I probably wouldn't make much (if any?) money by selling it and buying the Troy and it might be worth it to just keep it.

What would THR do? Unload the DD and get something slimmer? Or keep it for it's tank-like durability and tacticool look (I mean this in a good way, as it looks awesome)?

Of course, this thread requires a picture ;)

photo21_zpsfdabc2c1.jpg


I'm looking forward to what you guys and gals have to say,
- TNG
 
I don't feel the need to carry my belongings on the fore stock of my rifle. Never understood the need to make a light handy carbine into a front heavy 13 pound turd.

But its "what's cool in school" and not about what's really needed.

More is less and less is more.
 
Sell it, you'll get more than enough cash to get a Midwest industries Gen2 SS. I just put one of these on my 204 build and its awesome. 1.5" outside diameter with a full top rail and the ability to add rail sections the full length (even comes with 3 sections, barrel nut wrench and sling/ bipod stud) It locks up tight and is VERY solid. 15" rail weighs 10.9 oz
 
You answered your own question, its for military use, night vision...
I liked the Hogue freefloat forend on my RRA best, round, and not a cheese grater!:D
 
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I think there are a lot of good forend options that aren't railed (the Midwest Industries, for example) that are going to be less $ than the DD that you have right now.

No reason to keep the DD if it doesn't do what you want it to do.
 
The "slick" rails such as the Noveske NSR and others seem to be gaining in popularity for this reason. The KeyMod method of attachment seems to be emerging as a standard. This will allow you to attach accessories where needs while keeping the rail weight to a minimum. I find these types of forearms to be most comfortable.

I have both the Noveske NSR and the Daniel Defense MFR and would recommend them. I like a longer rail that covers most of the barrel to allow more options for supporting the rifle without putting pressure on the barrel.


Nice piece of land you have there. Beautiful.
 
Having a plethora of rail space is a pre-requisite for gaining membership into the Rambolistas Club. :evil:
 
The_Next_Generation said:
What would THR do? Unload the DD and get something slimmer? Or keep it for it's tank-like durability and tacticool look (I mean this in a good way, as it looks awesome)?
Click to expand...

There are lots of good options out there but recently I have been favoring the Troy Industries Alpha series of hand guards.

It allows you to attach rails whee you want or leave it bare. They attach to a standard barrel nut.

I have a couple AR-15s with DPMS round free floating hand guards and they are nice, but the hand guard threads onto the special barrel nut and it is difficult to get it indexed.

Rail-estate is a good term. i hope it catches on.:)
 
I think that for many (most?) people it's about being able to reach out with their support hand much more than it is about 'real estate' for accessories.
 
If your interest is in longer range shooting your current rail serves no real purpose. A lightweight tube would shed some weight and go easier on your hands. My suggestion: http://www.clarkcustomguns.com/clk750.htm. Not too harsh on the wallet and more appropriate to the application. You've got a great rail, you just don't need it.
 
JMHO, didn't realize some of you are the sensitive type.

Just what I observed through ten years in the Infantry. One guy does something to their equipment or weapon if its considered "cool" half the company's doing it next week.

Sorry if I abused anyone.
 
What would thr do. i would run the dd until i saved up enough to buy a mi gen ii ss or sampson evo. then i would hold on to the dd for a lighter weight build.
 
I thought that was "the shoulder thing that goes up", not a rail. :neener:

I doubt I'd have that type of rail on an AR, but I know lots of guys that have them completely stocked with accessories and they use all of them. Just not my style but I have no problem with it.

The only rails I have a problem with are the ones that someone screws onto a wood stock to make a tacticool bolt-action single-shot 22. Seen it, have the pictures somewhere. It was ugly and pointless.

Matt
 
You have a nice rail and shouldn't have much trouble unloading it on somebody else. You might could even work a straight up trade. I like the Samson Evolution series. They are pretty awesome for the money. I'm not sure if the DD rails use a proprietary barrel nut or not. That may be something that you want to check on. Some fore ends use proprietary barrel nuts and others utilize the standard barrel nuts.
 
I've thought about going the same route towards a modular tube style. I have a centurion c4 12fsp because it was the best option at the time that allowed me to keep the fsb, add forend length for control, and allow me to mount a weapon light at 12 o'clock.

I wonder if some of you shoot even half as well as you run your mouths about other's equipment choices. I've taken some flak about some of my gear at times, but it usually stops pretty quick once we hit the range or the real world.
 
Rails were all the rage, now they're not. It's really that simple unless you're using a lot of .mil equipment. Some of the hog and yote hunters that are allowed to take them at night are using night vision, DBAL's, white lights, etc. The ability to quickly strip that weight off the gun by using QD mounts is a nice feature.

My rifles are used for patrol, defense and shooting matches. Since I don't hunt, I have no need for a QD light mount. I use a non-QD light mount and they remain on the gun. I also use the top rail on some of them to mount a Surefire X-300, just forward of the front BUIS. I also use a short bottom rail for attaching a Harris bipod, mounted on a LaRue QD mount.

My latest forend is a Noveske NSR. So far, it's the best I've used. Rail where you need it, none where you don't. Your DD Lite is a great railed forend. You don't need it and would benefit from a slicker, lighter forend. Get the forend you want, then sell the Lite. Don't worry about the cash difference either way. Just make sure you're happy with what you wind up with! :)
 
I like a bit of rail on the bottom for a bipod, AFG, or vertical grip.

Other than that I can do without them unless its one of those integrated with the upper rails to allow a more forward mounting of a scope so cantilever rings aren't needed -- like on a Colt 6940 (although the side rails on it meet the cheese grater criterion).

If the top rail is same plane as the flat top upper rail it can be useful with a scope for mounting 45-degree offset BUIS
 
It not necessarily the amount of equipment you mount to the rail but the flexibility in mounting position. The modern trend is modular (a bunch of holes to put rails exactly where you want them).

I have a couple different modular handguards (Troy and Sampson) and am anxious to try KeyMod.

Mike
 
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