New Swiss K31 and reusing GP11 cases

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lencac

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Hi Guys:
I've got a tidbit that some of you might find mildly interesting.
First, I've another Swiss K31 in the barn. I'll post some photos in a little bit.
I wanted to ask a question in relation to K31's.
I have both GP11 ammo and hand loaded ammo for my K31's.
When reloading I use a Hornady comparator tool to set seating depth. I use the comparator tool to locate and specify how deep the bullet can travel before it hits the lands. The tool goes on your caliper and uses a interchangeable collet that uses the ogive of the bullet to determine bullet depth. With the tool you can set as far or close to the lands as you like. The special case for 7.5x55 Swiss has the back of the case threaded so the tool can be screwed on. The mouth is loose so a bullet can be put in the case and the bullet will slide easily. You put a chosen bullet in the case attached to the tool. You insert the case in the chamber, push the bullet forward and lock the tool down. Now you can pull it out and check the depth of the throat.
Ok, here's the question;
I check the depth with a 150 FMJ bullet and the reading says the bullet can't be seated more than 3.260 in. or a bullet to throat interference will occur. So I seat the bullet to 3.250 .in, now it's .010 .in off the lands. If the bullet is seated any more than 3.260 in. the bolt won't close, as expected.
Then I measure a GP11 round. It measures, with the tool, 3.325 in. .065 in. longer. So the bolt should not close, right? Remember the tool measures from the bullet ogive, not the tip, so all measurements made from the same arbitrary spot.
Obviously it does chamber the round easily though, it's Swiss ammo.
So how can that be :scrutiny:

There is an answer.
Which brings us to a greater point.:D


Here's a few pics of a naked K31 revealing it's ingeniously simple, near perfect design.
 

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Something is off in your measuring - are you sure that's the correct gauge for that bullet (Hornady's/Stony Point A, B, etc. designations)?

A typical 150 FMJ won't close with an OAL greater than about 2.92 - the GP-11 is much longer as they use an extremely pointed - long nose - bullet profile. There's a Berger VLD that seats as long as GP-11 but I've never seen anything else come close.
/B
 
Canuck, nope, all the measurements are correct. So I sat and thought about it :scrutiny: for a while :confused:

Then it came to me :what:

We are overlooking something because we are assuming. :banghead:

The 178 gr. GP11 bullet has a dia. of only .303 in. :eek:
Which means things like BC, sectional density, length all improve over a 178 gr. bullet in .308 dia. ;)
Not to mention it's interaction with the barrel itself.

Think about it. :uhoh:

BTW;
I have mastered reloading GP11 brass. It's easy, no hydraulic.
Anybody interested in how?
 
lencac, yes, several somethings are off. GP11 bulets are nominally 174 grains. 178 grains seems to heavy. GP11 is nominally 3.045 to 3.060" from casehead to bullet point. Your tool gives a 3.325 read. I'd say something is out of adjustment by better than a quarter of an inch(maybe an inch).I'd probably be more comfortable if your tool read a measure of 2.325" with GP11 to get to that throat interference point.
I'd further say your .303" bullet dia is a measure of the bullet still in the intact GP11 round. Pull a bullet. Most people do report GP11 bullet diameters of .307" and up. WF-Bern the old Swiss gov armement factory reports the correct bullet diameter as .3087". Rethink it. Remeasure it. The old carpenter says, "Measure twice. Cut once". Best
 
To the OP:

What you are experiencing is the difference between secant and tangent ogives.

The Swiss were smart folks, and learned that secant ogive bullets seated on the lands were VERY accurate, compared to tangent ogive bullets with "jump" to the rifling.

If you are reloading for K31 and want accuracy you MUST know the difference, what it means, and what bullets you should get.

The world has just come around again with the new "VLD" type bullets, which - magically - are all secant ogive! Also, magically, these new VLD type bullets don't shoot for crap unless they're jammed in to the lands. :)

Basically, the world has "rediscovered" something the Swiss knew and integrated in to their military arms back in the 1930's, and it's now the new "big thing" for long range shooting.

When.. in fact.. it was in common use almost 90 years ago.. with the Swiss K31 and GP11 ammunition which has legendary accuracy, even to this very day. :)

Anyway look for mid-weight VLD type bullets and load them to touch the lands; reduce the load to starting levels and work up slowly. You'll probably find something you like REALLY well along the way. :)
 
Yes please, reloading secrets for GP11! Would be mucho appreciated! I know RCBS offers a primer remover, just haven't bought one yet.
 
Yes! I just picked up a K31, tell me how to reload this GP11 brass! :)

Hydraulic method (faster than fiddling with a berdan decapper that's prone to breaking since the tongs are so thin)

#1 buy berdan primers
#2 fill bowl of water
#3 get .300-.305" dia (approx) metal rod
#4 dunk case in water, put in shell holder
#5 insert rod in neck, smack with hammer
#6 primer pops out (hydraulic pressure)
#7 repeat until all cases decapped, dry cases 24 hours
#8 size, prime w/ berdan primers load as normal
 
Howdy boyz:)

I took the K-31 to the range today.
Ok, the bullet thing is easy. The difference in the bullet dia. from an absolute measure with a Starrett micrometer with measurement to .0001, on 5 pulled GP11 rounds measured at the widest spot is .3038 to .3046 in.
The difference between that and the Hornady .308 dia. is why the reading using the comparator tool comes out seemingly wrong, but in reality the readings are correct.

Yes, I have taken once fired GP11 cases and reloaded to a very high grade.

So here's the thing. Some special equipment will be needed. But once that is done it's a cake walk. ;)

I have a photo showing the stuff. I'm using an RCBS berdan primer removing tool. The key to this tool is getting the bit properly aligned and to the required depth. The point on the bit is cut at an angle and must be correctly aligned. The depth of the bit is also critical as if the bit is not deep enough the primer ain't comin out. If the bit is set too deep it will damage the anvil in the case. Get those 2 things right and the tool works great.
Then to resize you just need to remove the decapping pin in the resizing die fob. Resizes the same then.
I got some Tulammo large rifle primers (berdan).
Then we need to press the berdan primer into the primer pocket.

The berdan primer is just slightly larger in diameter than the boxer primer .217 in. vs. .210 in.
I got an RCBS hand priming tool. Boxer primers are seated when it bottoms out in the primer pocket. But a berdan primer can be seated too far in and needs to be seated to a certain depth. So the hand priming tool needs one small and easy modification.
If you look at the photo you seem the squeeze handle has an adjustable set screw.
I drilled the handle and tapped it for a 10-32 thread and then put a jam nut on it and boom:eek: You now have a way to adjust the tool's stop point.
That's pretty much it. The rest is all the same.

To say it worked well would be an understatement.
I'll put up photos of the rifle I shot today.
The photo of the target is with the GP11 cases, Hornady 150 gr. FMJ, on top of 51.0 gr. of Reloder 17 @ 2785 - 2810 fps.
That's a 5 shot group @ 100 yrds off the bench, uninterrupted in 2 minutes or less without any shot being called out.
3 of the 5 are literally in the same hole. :what:
Granted I was using a very sweet set of Swiss Diopter sights. :cool:

If you don't have a K31 ..................................... THEN GET ONE:D
 

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Trent;
Really good info. The more I work with these rifles the more impressed I get with the ingenious simplicity of near perfect design and engineering, yet still totally sexy. In there own right they are like a vintage Ferrari.
So please do share with us about the different ogives. I want to know tooooooooooooooo:uhoh:

The RCBS decapping tool is rebust and works very quickly and neatly, no BS.
So I don't see how any reasonably mechanically inclined person could break one.
 
len, I've taken apart GP11 for quite a few years. It is monotomusly similar. I took one apart a few minutes ago. Bullet weight is 174.0 grains by Ohaus. Bullet diameter by Brown&Sharpe and others is .308". For grins, I set the mic jaws to a generous .305" opening and the bullet will not pass through by tip to base. The base side of the cannelure is the bullet's widest area and should be/was .308" or pretty close no matter who many zeros are used. I've seen older ammo at 3.060" OAL but of late and this eve the OAL is 3.045". Your 3.325" to throat interference is way out there somewhere but it can't be close. I still think 2.325" is a lot closer to a read that makes sense. Think about a 2.190" case with a deep seated bullet in a K31. You've got a tight throat and a short leade. Does no throat interference make sense traveling out to 3.325" before the rifling starts to engage the projectile? Yes, with a Weatherby and No, with a K31.Best
 
I've measured quite a few pulled GP11bullets from multiple production years and I haven't found any that mike under .3078, with most running right at .308 measured with my Starrett micrometer.

I've seen several people that suggest buying large rifle Berdan primers, but I haven't seen the type specified.
For reloading full power 7.5x55 get the Tula KV-7.62N primers. The KV-24N primers have a thinner cup with less priming compound and are intended for use in 7.62x39 ammunition.

Even for light subsonic cast bullet loads the KV-7.62N will give better accuracy and lower SD's.
 
What is your cost in bullets powder and primers to reload GP11 (ignoring the cost of GP brass)?

If it's near or over 50 cents per round then I think I'll just stick with shooting GP11 and save the brass for a rainy day years down the road. The accuracy is already waaay better than I can shoot with irons.
 
@ HammsBeer
My costs for long range Target ammo comparable to GP11 are hard to calculate because I've had some of my components for decades.

At current prices my 200 yard cast bullet loads break down like this:
Bullets = $1.30/100 (for gas checks, I get my lead for free)
Primers = $3.30/100 (not counting shipping or hazmat)
Powder = $4.15/100 (not counting shipping or hazmat)

So $8.75 per hundred for ammo that'll shoot just over an inch at 100 and a touch over three inches at 200 yards.

I doubt you could stay under 50 cents a round to load ammunition comparable to GP11 if you were paying current prices. Berger 175 grain VLD HP's were almost 50 cents apiece the last time I saw 'em available.

Now I've got a question for you.
Where are you finding any affordable GP11 these days?
 
There are some popular online surplus retailers like AIM that when they get stock in it's just over 50 cents per round in bulk.
 
Very interesting thread! I just threw a bunch of GP11 brass into my scrap bucket realizing that I'll never try and reload it. My answer was to buy Privi ammo and save the brass.

Interestingly, the Privi ammo must have a tapered projectile as I measured 0.305 at the front of the exposed bullet. I think that's some good ammo if you can't find GP11.

Attached is a link (probably off topic, sorry) that I find interesting telling how the 174 gr. GP11 bullet was evaluated by the US and briefly utilized for 30-06 service ammo (M1 ball).

http://www.cruffler.com/trivia-July99.html

Laphroaig
 
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