Your go-to CLP Help wanted

I use G-96 gun oil when I'm putting into storage, G-96 Treatment when in the field.

Don't forget the freezer test!

I hear folks raving about Weaponshield (and they did give me a pen lube tube), but weapon shield doesn't work well at all at -5 or below (gave my MP 15-22 big issues).

I have tested at least a dozen lubes/clps for corrosion protection over the past 10 years. My test method is more rigorous than most commercial methods. I thoroughly degrease a 1 1/4 wide mild steel bar and abrasive blast it "white". This removes mill scale and "activates" the surface (as determined by the US Navy) and makes it more suseptable to corrosion for about 24 hrs.

I mask off 1" sections with a high adhesion vinyl tape. The bar is laid flat across a glass tray. Each test sample is applied by blotting with a new cotton swab to the section. After allowing the section a few minutes to diffuse, it is blotted with a clean piece of paper towel to remove any puddling, leaving a wet film.

The bar is then gently sprayed with a 5% normal non-iodized (kosher salt) solution to create an even puddle of salt solution on the test section. This is repeated about every 6-8 hours.

This test is intended to replicate sweat puddling on a gun or by contaminated water or brackish salty water getting into a gun. It is admittedly an extreme test.

The control section (no protection) will show brown rust stains after about 1-4 hrs. Lube oils like Mobil 1 will show corrosion after 8-10 hrs. Ester based Group V racing oils (like Redline) will start to corrode after about 18-24 hrs. Weaponshield will last about 24-36 hrs.

The problem with most lube oils is they are lighter than water and they float off the surface.

The best I have found that can be used as a lube is Eezox. It will last at least 3-5 days when subjected to this test. Breakfree CLP is always second best , lasting 2-3 days.

Just for FYI Froglube lasted less than 24 hours and seemed to provide its protection like a wax would by providing a film. As the film failed there was only bare metal which corroded like the unprotected control.

This test is not intended to evaluate lubrication properties. I want protective ability before I test lubrication ability since IMHO most firearms are not too demanding regarding lubrication but definitely need corrosion protection particularly if they are used for self defense and carried next the body.

If you want something tested PM me and we can talk.

Your low temp issue with Weaponshield may not have been the lube. I have had low temp problems with 22LR that were in fact slightly dirty chambers. The common wax lube used on 22LR gets pretty hard at low temps and a much smaller amount of fouling can cause trouble.

How about including mineral oil in the evaluation.

Dunno if it's been mentioned, but a local company makes "double tap lube and protectant" the dropped a few bottles off for us to try at my shop. I use it on all the customer guns because it works so well, before this and some now I also use frog lube, I like the frog lube a little more though because it's a paste I can apply as I see fit as opposed to a liquid

G96 clp.

I've used Breakfree for years, mainly for its "P" properties and never been disappointed. But then, my part of Texas is fairly low humidity so the climate here isn't that hard on metal.

Breakfree CLP for me. I make knives and back in 2007 stopped doing it full time and hung half a dozen blades ranging from finish polished to rough ground on the wall. I live in Illinois and the knife shop is in the basement. It can be beastly humid in the Summer and the basement floor will quite literally sweat.

Clean carbon steel blades will rust within minutes if not protected and I knew these blades would be sitting for some time before I could return to knife making as the economy was crashing into a depression and I had to return to a "day job" which has so far lasted 7 years. Anyway...

I gave those blades one wipe with a chamois I keep saturated with Breakfree CLP and hung them on the wall...they have remained untouched until this day and there is not a spec of rust on any blade. They look like the day they were hung on the wall with only one application. This stuff protects and lubes and I find it an outstanding cleaner as well.

Breakfree CLP ....It's all I use except Hoppe's #9 as a solvent.

VooDoo

up 2 snuff said:

How about including mineral oil in the evaluation.

Click to expand...

+1

PL-M and PL-S, both mineral oil based, were used in the military before LSA and CLP. They're available as surplus.

I have heard great things about Rand CLP... We sell it at the store I work at and people seem to love it. I use TW-25 for my lube so I have never tried the Rand stuff. Its a little pricy at $11 a 2oz bottle but they say its something along the lines of miracle lube for weapons and it is all natural and environmentally friendly... Here it is...
http://www.amazon.com/RAND-Infused-...=UTF8&qid=1397498755&sr=8-1&keywords=Rand+CLP

LKLive13 said:

I have heard great things about Rand CLP... We sell it at the store I work at and people seem to love it. I use TW-25 for my lube so I have never tried the Rand stuff. Its a little pricy at $11 a 2oz bottle but they say its something along the lines of miracle lube for weapons and it is all natural and environmentally friendly... Here it is...

http://www.amazon.com/RAND-Infused-...=UTF8&qid=1397498755&sr=8-1&keywords=Rand+CLP

Click to expand...

I've bought and have been using Rand on and off for almost a year. It is very good in the "lube" department, but not the awesome cleaner folks raved about. That said, I'm a stickler for a clean gun, so maybe I'm too picky. I always end up soaking my bolt in Ballistol to get all the carbon off.

My next miracle CLP to try will be Fireclean. But Rand definitely is an excellent lube.

And I'll always keep Ballistol around...

If you see Gibbs Brand Lubricant at the gun show, pick up a bottle.
Incredible stuff that is a great rust inhibitor as well as a lubricant.

Eezox for long term storage.

Since the temp in S. Florida will never get to -5, I'll use Weapon Shield. I like it a lot. It seems to work as advertised. Cleaning is actually easier each time I do it and the guns run really well. I'll stick with it until I use up the 16 oz bottle that I have. Then I might experiment with the CLP du jour - or maybe not.

MPro7?, SEAL 1?.....

Any luck or responses from SEAL1.net ? Scott Lee?
Also, when you list Mpro7 do you mean LPX? Or just a regular Mpro7 rust inhibitor?
If you are researching common CLPs, Id buy some LPX. It's available at local Bass Pro Shops or online.

Rusty

Break free or eezox here, just did a post on frog lube, have that also. It smells great. I have to use it a few more times. It's darn expensive.

We deal with high humidity here in South Dakota, and Breakfree CLP has ye to fail me. Admittedly, my experience with other products is basically nil, because of the old adage "If it aint broke, don't fix it" It does what I need it to do, and does so without issue

Just got a big bottle of MPRO7 cleaner and a bottle of MPRO7 LPX oil. ... Excellent stuff !

I highly recommended the above along with Ballistol and WeaponShield.

How long do you expect it to take to evaluate that many products?

I like your ambition. If I may, I'd like to make a suggestion for the experiment itself, which will help establish controls and make relative comparisons more intuitive/easy.

First, get yourself a stock of steel to use...flat bar or round stock, whichever is handier and cheaper. Flat stock may be easier to show corrosion or inhibition of corrosion than round stock, though. Cut yourself a whole bunch of blanks, say inches long or so, and drill one end so that it may be hung.

Next, make yourself a board to hang a large number of these blanks on. I'd recommend using something like plastic coated cup hooks. Plastic because it avoids metal-to-metal contact with the bars. Cup hooks because hanging a 6 inch blank on a cup hook will keep it suspended in air and not result in it resting against the wood. You can install the wood board such that it hangs out slightly at the top to encourage the steel blanks to hang away from the wood.

Clean your steel blanks to ensure they're bare metal...do the final handling while wearing nitrile gloves to keep finger oils/acids off and do a final wipe down with something like alcohol.

Then coat each blank per the directions for each product you have and carefully hang them on the board. Label by each hook so you know how each was treated. Maybe make a paper chart as well.

Be sure to put one or two untreated blanks on the board as well, so that you can use the corrosion it undergoes as a marker for the effectiveness of the various produces to inhibit corrosion.

You may also consider having a few steel blanks professionally blued, anodized, or whatever, to hang up untreated as further comparison.

Then put the board wherever you intend it to be over the coming months/years.

You may even consider two or more identical boards in different environments (one in the garage, one in the house for example).


Nothing impresses people more than pictures, and a setup like this will show both how controlled the experiment is AND will provide side-by-side evidence/comparison which is very easily illustrated by pictures. Which is why I recommended flat stock over round stock for the blanks.


Keep us posted!