Blkout barrels

I got my blk barrels bout a year ago from AR15 Hardware. I've been happy with it. I think the cost was around $140.

I have a problem buying cheap barrels and bolt carrier groups as both are the heart of the rifle. I used a Rainier SS 300 blackout barrel and Rainier niboron BCG and could not be happier.

Did you guys swap your barrels yourselves, or have a smith do the work? I've been thinking about converting one of my ARs. I'm handy, but don't have the tools and jigs; figure it might be less expensive (and faster) to have my local smith do the change.

It doesn't take special tools or jigs to swap a barrel. Check the stickies on arfcom on assembly, it's not gunsmith level work at all.

Two specific points in mind, if you plan on reusing any of the captive parts on the existing barrel, then you may have to remove the fixed pins on the front sight - gas block, which does get involved. This is why a lot of assemblers have moved to a low profile block that allows a lot of future rework. You may prefer that on a new barrel as it does simplify things greatly.

Second, the barrel nut torque instructions are a maximum not to be exceeded. Not a guide on what to achieve. With the upper clamped in a holder - I used vice jaw inserts on my 5" - the nut is torqued to a minimum of 30 foot pounds, which is just firm by a "hand feel." From there, you rotate it to the open tooth to pass the gas tube, that is all. You don't want the steel threads on the barrel nut to strip the aluminum threads on the nose of the upper. The max is 80 foot pounds, which is light for a lug nut. Don't be one.

If you do any work on the flash hider, the barrel itself must be clamped, not the upper. The stop pin on the barrel will rip out the slot in the nose. Not Good.

While it is nice to get an accurate barrel with headspaced bolt, the reality is that the .300 BO with 2MOA is only going out to 300m before it becomes a victim of the poor SD of the bullet and low power. It drops as badly as a .30-30 round nose. So, a barrel that delivers a 6" hit at 300 is more than adequate for the intent of the .30 caliber bullet. It's never going to be a prairie dog gun.

Thanks, Tirod; very helpful.

I have a barrel from Satern Machining that I am very happy with. I did have to open the gas port just a tad to .114 to get the gun to run but other than that it's been wonderful. Accurate as I need at 50yds. Ran me about 210+shipping and they get it out quickly.

C

Legionnaire,
I had mine professionally installed, I did not have the tools to do it myself.

Out of you're two options I'd go with Wilson Combat.

try to get a melonited bbl.never wear it out.

I would avoid AR Stoner. I bought one because it was the only 10.5" available for several months. It is a 1.25 MOA barrel (OK for a light taper) but I found out later (because my suppressor was still in NFA jail) that the barrel threads are out of spec. Midway says to submit a form on AR Stoner's web page and they are not responding Every other barrel but one (Century Arms on a VZ58) I've owned was dead on. I had a S&W M&P10 AR barrel that was not at first (but still acceptable) but after several tightenings is on center now (may have been a finish issue because I initially ruled out FOD).

Mike