Savage 10FP light strikes

With what other ammo did you have light strikes? Tula and Wolf have hard primers.

Could be grit in the firing pin channel too

Brownells will sell you a spring.
http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Savage-/110-111-112-112BT-Top-Loading-sid335.aspx#s31166sid335

As will Wolff.
http://www.gunsprings.com/Rifles & Shotguns/SAVAGE/110/cID2/mID54/dID247

rc

By all means order a new spring.

But, take that bolt down, clean it and lube it properly and test it again. Just soaking in Hoppes won't necessarily do the job of removing firing pin channel grunge that's accumulated and congealed over the past 12 years..

Your Model 10 is the same as a 110 short action I believe.

rc

Technically model 110 is long action and model 10 is short action

My buddy had an issue with the firing pin not striking the primer at all once in a while. So I looked up a video to disassemble it to clean it. I took it apart and it wasn't dirty. I put it back together and I shot 20 rounds with out a failure. I think the pin that holds the locking lugs was misaligned. So try taking it apart and cleaning it if necessary and make sure everything is aligned. My cousin says that if you don't engage the accutrigger and just pull the trigger, it won't go off.

Here's the video I watched to pull it apart.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZ7AoOGYbcs

The bolt is pretty easy to take apart and put back together, just don't lose anything. The back screw was super tight on the one I dealt with but a clamp helped with that. The one I took apart had a 1/4 inch hex screw, some have the flat head. Watch which way you put the locking lugs back on too. I accidentally put it upside down and the shells wouldn't eject. Had to tear it down and make it right.

There is a proper order to diagnose issues like this.
First, check the firing pin protrusion the way ir is right now. is it within spec's ?
Second, Disassemble the bolt, check for wear broken parts and accumulation of dirt and crud.
Third, reassemble the bolt, and check the firing pin protrusion again and see if it is still the same or has changed.
If there are no worn or damaged parts, the parts are clean and work freely, and the firing pin protrusion is the proper length, THEN I would be looking to replace the firing pin spring.
The OP was quick to ask if a new firing pin was in order.
And everone else jumped pretty much on the Replacing the spring option.
First find the cause and eliminate all the related factors before you start replacing parts.
It might be dirt in the bolt, and you end up cleaning that out when you repace the spring, and when the problem is solved, you think the spring was the problem.
But what if the firing pin is chipped or has a burr on it, your replacing the spring wont cure that, or might for a short time.
I shoot rifles with 100 year old firing pin springs, and they still work fine, and most of my FTF situations were from dirt in the bolt.

A firing pin protrusion Gage is the Best way to check the firing pin protrusion.
you cant really get a accurate measurement using a dial caliper alone.
But you can use a washer smaller than the bolt face that is .065" thick for a rough check.
That is the Average firing pin Max. protrusion on most centerfire rifles.
But it only will tell you if you are at max protrusion, and not what the Actual protrusion is like the gage with a micrometer or caliper will.
But you could make one that is only .055" thick to see if you are extending out to Minimum protrusion for most rifles.

Try increasing the trigger pull weight

I don't follow how increasing the trigger pull will effect how hard the firing pin strikes the primer.
Could you please explain ?