Need help with Rem 700 accuracy

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maxxhavoc

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Here are some of my latest targets from my SPS Varmint .308. I believe am getting consistent horizontal stringing. This is with Federal Gold Medal Match 168gr SMKs (right-hand large target) as well as with handloads (168gr SMK over 38.5 Benchmark - all other targets.)

308prob.jpg

I am using sandbags on the front and back. The top row of small targets is with free recoil, the remainder is with a firm grip. It didn't seem to matter either way.

Most of the groups are right at 1.5", taking time between shots in all groups except the large left 10-shot group, which was shot more quickly. This also didn't seem to make a difference.

The rifle is:
-Remington 700 SPS varmint
-Choate Ultimate Varmint stock (aluminum v-block bed)
-Rifle Basix trigger @ 2-3lbs
-Centerpoint 6-24x50 Scope

I don't think it is the scope, POI stays constant and it adjusts smoothly and consistently. Any ideas?
 
Curious how you decided on your hand load.

Brand new barrel/rifle? Action firmly seated in the stock? Nothing loose?
 
I broke in the barrel awhile ago, the rifle has less than 200 rounds through it. Action is firmly seated, the wear marks on the front and rear blocks are uniform.

Scope is still looking tight all around.

Oh, and I had a lot of Benchmark for .223 when I loaded those. That particular load has done well in other .308s and I still had some around. I will work up new loads with 4064 once I am confident the rifle is behaving.
 
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Almost looks like something is touching the side of the barrel. Plenty of clearance on edges of the stock to the barrel??
 
The Choate stock is excessively free-floated. I can slide an American Rifleman magazine all the way to the front of the chamber.
 
Horizontal stringing (when it can not clearly be attributed to the barrel, bedding, in-letting), is normally the result of the shooter being 'inconsistent'.

What I mean by that is:

Shooter moves rifle slightly each time (if shooting off of bags, usually the rear).
Shooter varies 'cheek weld'.
Shooter varies rifle/shoulder alignment/pressure.
Shooter varies breathing technique (take several normal breaths, hold breath briefly, let it out slightly, fine tune sight picture, press trigger).

If you believe you are doing all you can to be 'consistent' and you are an experienced shooter, then look to your equipment.

Does your scope have an adjustable parallax setting, if so...have you set it (for YOUR eyes) not the distance indicated on the scope!

Is the scope of reasonable quality for your purposes, I don't just mean " a good deal for the money". IF the internal elements are moving slightly...you will have a source of frustration that will plague you until you replace it.

Some things that might be helpful to know:

Is the horizontal stringing always ONE direction, or does it go both ways?

Is the stringing roughly 'incremental' (about the same amount each shot) or not?

Does the stringing occur if another accomplished shooter fires the rifle?
 
Flintknapper, thanks for the input. I am an experienced shooter, but not an experienced benchrest shooter. I almost exclusively shoot iron sights from a standing position or with front support only.

I previously shot an upgraded 10/22 (.920 match barrel, stock, trigger) and a .223 Rem SPS varmint, both with better results - .5" groups were the norm with both on a calm day. Better sometimes, worse sometimes.

For this reason, I am leaning toward recoil management as far as "shooter error" is concerned. My hold is generally shooting hand on vertical grip, off-hand squeezing the bunny ears of the back bag. The front is on a bag, free to recoil, and it is not gripped left to right at all.

The fliers are sometimes left, sometimes right. The entire group seems to be consistently 1.5", even on 10 round groups.

I din't know about parallax settings, I have been putting at the specified range, not judging it by eye. For that matter, I am shooting with prescription glasses...does that affect anything?

If I run into an accomplished precision shooter at the range, I will get their assistance if possible. Unfortunately, most of the guys shooting scoped are happy with 12" groups and think the targets above are awesome...
 
Unfortunately, I believe your target results are a result of your benchrest shooting technique. Anticipating when the rifle is going to fire will change your hold on the rifle. Try this, focus on the target through the scope and dry fire your rifle several times and notice any shift in the crosshairs on the target. You will probably see that you are actually moving the rifle upwards before the bullet exits the barrel. Practice makes perfect. Have someone who bench rest shoots at the range often fire a group with your ammo and compare results.
 
My guess is flint is on the right track with parallax setting.

Put the rifle on the bags pointed at the target. Without touchin the rifle look through the scope. Move your head left and right and see if the crosshairs stay in the same spot on the target. My guess is they will move about an inch back and forth

Adjust parallax until they stop moving or put more effort into keeping your eye in the exact same spot when you shoot
 
You changed the stock and trigger and put a cheap scope on the rifle. Borrow a good scope from a friend and I bet it improves.

My thoughts are shooting technique and the scope.
 
Yes it looks like a parallax issue, or not consistent cheek rest. Let the rifle rest on the bags, then look thru the scope and move your head. The cross should be still on the target. I cant understand why you use such a crappy scope on a precision rifle? Atleast move up to a nikon monarch or vortex. Its worth it.
 
The first thing i would check is the scope, Centerpoint is low end glass to my eyes. If a good scope does not fix it I would attribute it to the rifle itself. A friend of mine had the same rifle and was unhappy with the accuracy he was getting even with a high end scope and match ammo, he sold it because his Browning A-Bolt 30-06 would shoot circles around it.
I load for a few dozen rifles, one thing I have learned is some rifles DO NOT like long ogive HP match bullets, I have seen that a couple times before, try Sierra Game Kings I have had remarkable accuracy with the 180gr in 30 calibers and as I recall that bullet won a Wimbledon championship many years ago. They will yield modest expansion but deep penetration at 308 Win speeds if that stuff matters to you. For everything 180gr I have found W748 to be the most accurate powder delivering 1/2" and smaller groups out of my Winchester 70 Featherweight, I cannot wait to try them in a heavy barrel 30 cal rifle.
If you want to stick to 165-168gr Nosler says BLC (2) is the most accurate powder and while I have never had spectacular success with 165gr bullets in the two 308s I load for that powder shot as well as any. Varget wins hands down for everything in 150gr.
 
That particular load has done well in other .308s

It would be worth it to work up a load specific to this rifle, you may just over or under a node for it.

I use loads that have worked in other rifles just to zero the scope on paper before load development.
 
Flintknapper said:
Does your scope have an adjustable parallax setting, if so...have you set it (for YOUR eyes) not the distance indicated on the scope!
This was my first thought, too, and taliv's suggestions are what I would have recommended.
 
check clearance on sides and rear of action. also check the bolt handle isn't touching the stock. the rear tang should not touch on the sides or back.

murf
 
check clearance on sides and rear of action. also check the bolt handle isn't touching the stock. the rear tang should not touch on the sides or back.

murf

The bolt handle was rubbing on the stock in the back. There was definitely major contact between the two when the bolt was down. Now that I have trimmed it out, hopefully next trip's results will be better.

Thanks for your suggestions, everyone.
 
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