A buddy of mine purchased a new model 70 made by FN in South Carolina. It's a featherweight 243. It's nice looking rifle, not compared to a pre 64 model, but it's nice. He has been complaining about the bolt being stiff or sticky closing and opening. Sure enough it is that, we tried some factory Win powerpoints and some Federal Fusion rounds. They had some resistance on closing and opening the bolt. The same after firing. Nothing abnormal showing on the cases. I loaded some Win.,Fed and Nosler cases up with a Starting load of 39.5 gr. of IMR4350 with a 90 gr. Nosler ballistic tip. Again some fair resistance opening and closing the bolt. Firing those loads had the same resistance when opening and closing the bolt. No flattened primers or scrapes or marks of any kind on the cases. On the second loading of the Nosler brass it was a bit smoother. I was wondering, since this is a new rifle with not many rounds through it, if the extractor claw or maybe the ejector may be the cause of the resistance. He's not so happy with it and I'm thinking maybe it needs a few more cycles on it and it might smooth out. BTW, the bolt will cycle smoothly on an empty chamber. And the rifle shoots pretty good with that starting load. Any one seen this?
FN made Model 70
- Thread starter Skyshot
- Start date
- Status
Art Eatman
Moderator In Memoriam
Sounds like a tight chamber. The deal with the reloaded Nosler brass sounds to me as though the fire-formed cases now match the chamber dimensions.
Float Pilot
Member
Does the bolt feel like that with no round being chambered?
I had a Winchester M-70 that must have been a Monday morning gun, the front action screw was too long and was causing problems. Well actually that rifle had all sorts of issues with tolerances.
I had a Winchester M-70 that must have been a Monday morning gun, the front action screw was too long and was causing problems. Well actually that rifle had all sorts of issues with tolerances.
Kachok
Member
I had a Featherweight in 308 and had the EXACT same problem, it appears that the chamber is cut a little rough if you looked closely you could see grooves on the brass, would cycle factory OK but if I approached max loads I would have to hammerfist the action open, though no excessive pressure signs on the primer or bolt face. That is the only reason I sold that rifle because everything else about it was top notch. Loved the trigger, stock, action, and the accuracy was great.
When did he purchase it? Winchester moved "assembly" of their FN made guns to Portugal about a year ago. I've not seen one personally, but it supposedly says "assembled in Portugal" underneath the barrel where it can only be seen with the action out of the stock.
I've been extremely pleased with my early production FN made rifle. As are most everyone who owns them. FWIW, internet rumors are that quality has gone down somewhat on more recently made SC made rifles. I was hoping the Portugal assembled rifles would be better.
I've been extremely pleased with my early production FN made rifle. As are most everyone who owns them. FWIW, internet rumors are that quality has gone down somewhat on more recently made SC made rifles. I was hoping the Portugal assembled rifles would be better.
sage5907
Member
I saw another post recently on thehighroad about a new Model 70 where the cartridge was not feeding smoothly into the chamber and the bottom of the chamber was making bright marks on the rear if the brass in front of the web. I didn't comment on the other thread but that problem was caused by the case rim not easily slipping easily onto the extractor claw. The correction was to remove some metal from the extractor claw with a dremel tool so it would cycle smoothly. Someone needs to do this who knows how to use a Dremel tool. I have done this several times with good results.
In your case I would take the extractor off of the bolt and feed a loaded round into the chamber without the extractor to see what would happen. I just rotate the extractor until it comes out of the groove and then move it forward by placing a small piece of wood against the extractor and tapping it forward, That way you don't scratch anything. Of course, when you open the bolt again you will have to push the cartridge out from the front with a cleaning rod. If the bolt closes smoothly without the extractor it could be that when the rim of the brass feeds into the extractor it pushes the extractor forward enough to contact the barrel inside the extractor groove. If this happens you would remove a little metal off the front of the extractor so the contact doesn't happen. I tweek the Model 70 actions until they feed smoothly.
In your case I would take the extractor off of the bolt and feed a loaded round into the chamber without the extractor to see what would happen. I just rotate the extractor until it comes out of the groove and then move it forward by placing a small piece of wood against the extractor and tapping it forward, That way you don't scratch anything. Of course, when you open the bolt again you will have to push the cartridge out from the front with a cleaning rod. If the bolt closes smoothly without the extractor it could be that when the rim of the brass feeds into the extractor it pushes the extractor forward enough to contact the barrel inside the extractor groove. If this happens you would remove a little metal off the front of the extractor so the contact doesn't happen. I tweek the Model 70 actions until they feed smoothly.
All of my FN-made M70s have tight chambers. They shoot very accurately, especially my .270 Win Super Grade and my .22-250 Rem and .308 Win Stealths. I cannot hand-seat a new projectile in the mouth of a once-fired brass. When closing the bolt on factory new ammo, the bolt takes some effort to close.
No marks on the cases what so ever
The rifle is about 2 or 3 years old. He just hasn't fired it much. I myself don't see it as much of a problem, but you know how some people are. I may try to swindle him out of it. It's nice little rifle IMO.
I'm leaning this way because the action is so smooth empty and You can't find a mark on any of the brass, factory or reloads. We did mark the the extractor with a sharpie marker and it will rub off the outer top of the extractor when a round is chambered, but will not on an empty chamber.
sage5907
Member
Skyshot, marking the top and front of the extractor with a sharpie was smart. That's the way I tell how much metal to remove. If you have a Dremel tool with a small stone on it or a small file you can remove a small amount of metal where it is touching. Every time you remove a little metal cover the grind area with the sharpie and cycle the bolt with a cartridge to see if it is still toughing. If the area was originally blued cover the work area with a black sharpie when you finish. The difference between a good rifle and a great rifle can be just the suttle changes such as adjusting the extractor, adjusting the trigger and adjusting the magazine cover latch.
Just picked up a new Cabela's 50th anniversary Model 70 last week, sat in inventory dropping the price until I finally 'pulled the trigger', that is only 220 serial numbers away from my Model 70 Alaskan that I've had for 3 years now. When I got it home and had it next to my Model 70 that I've had for 3 years I noticed that it had the 'broke in' feel as I ran the bolt. I am confident that once I get the initial cleaning and lubing done, and run 50 or so rounds through it that it will be 'broken in' too.
a-sheepdog
Member
I have 2 FN Winchesters, one in 375 H&H and one in 416 Rem Mag. I have never had problems out of either one and both are very accurate. I would have to venture to say that with these particular calibers, the bore may be cut a little more loosely since they are DGR calibers.
- Status
